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Water Tube Removal/Replacement; 1963 Johnson 3hp (JW-17)

J

Johnson Fan

New member
Hello,

I would appreciate some guidance with this project.

I am in the process of replacing the water tube to extend the shaft on my 3hp Johnson (1963, JW-17).

I have removed the lower unit from the power head with no issues; there were six screws.

I am at the point where the tube is connected to the shaft housing and can not see how to disconnect it. I don't see any threaded components other than what appears to be a clean-out plug located at the outside edge of the housing. I can peak through this small hole and can see no components which hold the copper tube in place. I don't imagine it was manufactured where this tube is permanently fixed to the housing.

I am stumped here. If any of you are familiar with these old engines - please advise.

Thank you,
Johnson Fan
 
The JW-17 3hp model is listed as a 1961-62 3hp Johnson... not a 1963.

In order to remove the water tube, you must remove the powerhead... no major ordeal on such a small hp.
 
fdrgator said:
'61-62-63---they are all held in by the same compression nut & sleeve at the top.
Click to expand...


Hello,

Thank you for your prompt reply.

Yes, the parts diagram for this unit illustrates these two parts. Only that they are not at all visible so I am not able to loosen the nut.

I will take a photo later today...

BTW this unit was manufactured in Canada and is a JW-17C; it is possible that it is configured differently?

Thanks.
 
Nah, Canada motors are the same. The nut is accessed through the flushing port. Gotta be 40 or 50 years since I've replaced one. But if I remember correctly, it takes a special tool. Again, memory says it has screwdriver slots that the tool fits into.
 
fdrgator said:
Nah, Canada motors are the same. The nut is accessed through the flushing port. Gotta be 40 or 50 years since I've replaced one. But if I remember correctly, it takes a special tool. Again, memory says it has screwdriver slots that the tool fits into.
Click to expand...
Hello again,


Attached are three images which I hope will help. A great deal of the resolution appears to have been lost as attached. Sorry about that.


The third photo is focussed on the plug hole. With a bright light one can not see a nut or sleeve; only the flanged end of the copper tube. There doesn't appear to be any surface which can be slotted with a special tool or driver.


The second is of the tag. It's model number is JW-17C and made in Canada (a very long time ago when we actually manufactured good product).


The first shows where the tube enters the housing. There are no visible fasteners; only the tube and housing.


If you are not able to advise on how to remove this tube I will consider extending the bottom portion by joining a section from a piece of tube with a compression joint. This joint will need not to touch or interfere with the spinning drive shaft and could work.


My overall objective here is to extend the shaft (I have the extension, longer drive shaft and water tube) so I can run this engine on a 13 foot Whaler for trolling and back-up.


If you have any advice I would appreciate it.


ThanksDSC01558.jpgDSC01564.jpgDSC01555.jpg
 
Johnson Fan said:
Hello,

Thank you for your help. I will experiment with a large flat head... it may loosen the nut.

Good day.
Click to expand...

I am converting a 1963 JW18 from a short shaft to a long shaft. I also am having difficulty removing the slotted nut that holds the water tube in place in the flush port of the lower casing. I have removed the powerhead and have access, but no luck. I have used a propane torch for heat, JB 80 penetrating oil, and a flat bit in a hand impact driver, all to no avail. Any suggestions. I'm trying to avoid drilling it out

steve
 
Heat will be counter-productive because the brass nut expands faster than the aluminum surrounding it, making it even tighter. Hey, nearly 60 years makes corrosion happen.
 
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fdrgator said:
BTW, even with the nut out, the tube cannot be removed without destroying it. But you have a new one, right?
Click to expand...

Yes- I do have the new longer water tube for the long shaft conversion. I guess I could cut the old tube off; and then drill the nut out from the flush port side. I am somewhat concerned with the drill bit damaging the threads in the aluminum casting.

Thanks for for your help so far.
 
I was able to cut the old water tube off and drill out the nut. Now I just need to re-tap the threads before installing the new water tube, compression fitting, and new nut. Is it advisable to use some type of sealant on the nut threads?

Also, when reinstalling the powerhead onto the driveshaft housing, do you use gasket sealer on the gasket or just the gasket alone? When I took it apart it appeared as though the old gasket had some type of sealer/adhesive on the mating metal surfaces.

thanks
 
During my 3hp rebuild project, i did not use any extra sealer between powerhead and driveshaft housing. Just new gasket. Remember clean away all old gasket material from the sealing surfaces, but dont use too heavy tools, since it is easy to damage sealing surface. I have here one photo about my sealing surface on the driveshaft housing, i cleaned powerhead side that good too. With my engine model, it was not easy to put powerhead back, since it have slot, and that slot needs to meet with watertube grommet. With my engine, it is possible to assemble powerhead back and have water-connection not properly in place.

2.jpg
 
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Evinrudemen said:
During my 3hp rebuild project, i did not use any extra sealer between powerhead and driveshaft housing. Just new gasket. Remember clean away all old gasket material from the sealing surfaces, but dont use too heavy tools, since it is easy to damage sealing surface. I have here one photo about my sealing surface on the driveshaft housing, i cleaned powerhead side that good too. With my engine model, it was not easy to put powerhead back, since it have slot, and that slot needs to meet with watertube grommet. With my engine, it is possible to assemble powerhead back and have water-connection not properly in place.

View attachment 22825[/QUOTE
Thanks you for your help. I did get the threads cleaned out with a 7/16 x 20 tap, and then installed a new water tube, compression fitting, and slotted nut. Also installed the powerhead with a new gasket after cleaning up the mating surfaces.

thanks for all of the guidance
Click to expand...
 
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