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290 dp outdrive

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Windy Bay

Contributing Member
I am rehabbing a 1980 25 ft boat that has a Volvo Penta 290 sp outdrive. No identification of an a, b,c ect. I am looking at replacing it with a 1989 290dp. Would the transom shield cutout be the same? the only designation I have for the 89 is an aq271dp, and it is a 290dp
thanks
 
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Windy Bay said:
I am rehabbing a 1980 25 ft boat that has a Volvo Penta 290 sp outdrive.
1980 is a bit too early for the 290 drive. If this boat does have the 290, it was very likely a retro-fit.

No identification of an a, b,c ect.
During this year model, the B, C or D is used as a reference to the final drive reduction.

In order to learn what the Duo Prop ratio is, you will need to remove the props, remove the ring anode and wire brush the AFT most area of the prop shaft bearing carrier and expose several numbers.
You will see one of the following set of numbers:
2.30
1.95
1.78

This is ONLY good in the event that no one has replaced a DP gear set and has failed to "re-stamp" the carrier!

I am looking at replacing it with a 1989 290dp. Would the transom shield cutout be the same?
If the boat had been retro-fit with a 290, your proposed 290 Duo Prop system will fit.

the only designation I have for the 89 is an aq271dp, and it is a 290dp
"AQ" generally refers to the engine model.... such as AQ225, AQ260, etc.

Have you seen a PZNR # on the transmission (upper gear unit) ?
Click to expand...


NOTE: if you are mixing and/or matching transmissions, Intermediate housings and/or lower gear units..... it is imperative that the proper shimming procedure be followed.





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Rick, Thanks for the answer. I have pics of the outdrive that was in the boat, and the one that I am looking at purchasing. The single prop drive that was in the boat seems to be in good shape. I don't have any of the parts to dress the engine. When I bought this boat the engine was missing. To find a dp lower would cost me around 1500 + Labor to have it changed out. I don't feel comfortable shimming, So I would need a shop to do the work. I was thinking that buying a package Engine+outdrive (dp) would be a better way to go. I can pick up the one pictured in the link, for less than I would pay to just get the lower put on my current outdrive, and I would still need to get all the parts to dress a rebuilt engine. I would still have the engine in the picture either rebuilt or find someone reliable to build me a 383 stroker. anyway here is a link to 4 pics. first 2 are of the outdrive that I have, the second 2 are of the package that I am looking at.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskRTDGPA
 
Windy Bay said:
Rick, Thanks for the answer. I have pics of the outdrive that was in the boat, and the one that I am looking at purchasing. The single prop drive that was in the boat seems to be in good shape. I don't have any of the parts to dress the engine. When I bought this boat the engine was missing. To find a dp lower would cost me around 1500 + Labor to have it changed out. I don't feel comfortable shimming, So I would need a shop to do the work. I was thinking that buying a package Engine+outdrive (dp) would be a better way to go. I can pick up the one pictured in the link, for less than I would pay to just get the lower put on my current outdrive, and I would still need to get all the parts to dress a rebuilt engine. I would still have the engine in the picture either rebuilt or find someone reliable to build me a 383 stroker. anyway here is a link to 4 pics. first 2 are of the outdrive that I have, the second 2 are of the package that I am looking at.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskRTDGPA
Click to expand...


Regarding that engine/drive package...... how much is the owner asking for it ??????


From what I can see, the first photo is of a 290....... it is still within the family that incorporates the Anchorage Bracket that the hydraulic cylinders attach to.

In the third photo...... the bumps on the transmission's bearing box collar suggest that it's an "A" transmission (i.e., heavier gear case).

A few suggestions:

Make sure that these components are not corroded in/around the typical areas that can become corroded!

Also, make sure that you can remove the propellers.

Make sure that it is the 1.95:1 final drive reduction (if using a 5.7L SBC).

If you build a 6.3L SBC (aka 383 cu in), you can use the 1.78:1 final reduction.

Make sure that the flywheel is a match for the Flywheel Cover (early F/Cs require the 153 tooth ring gear flywheel)

Before installing the Flywheel Cover, remove the PDS and replace the bearings/seals.

Be careful removing the exhaust Y-pipe from the transom shield.... be gentle and use heat where needed.
Also be careful if you attempt to remove the suspension fork "Hinge Pins"..... use heat and a brass or aluminum driver.... NO Steel Driver.

I would lose the Power Assist steering system...... you won't need it.


That Holley carburetor has the externally adjustable floats (needle/seat)..... which may indicate automotive!


Honestly, you would do better if you could find a "C" or later Duo Prop system.
When we get into the "C" or later drives, we will no longer see the Anchorage Bracket.... but if this fits your budget, then use it.


Good luck and have fun with the project.
 
Picture 1 and 2 are of the drive that came with the boat. I have no idea if that is the original drive. It was on a 1980 model year boat.
Picture 3 and 4 are the package that I am looking at. They are asking $2500. It is advertised as an 89. What I think you are saying is that drive is a heavier duty drive. (Good?)
As I said in the previous post, that would also provide me with the engine dressing.
My other question remains. Would the drive in pics 3, use the same transom cutout as the drive in pic 1? I hope we are seeing them in the same order.
 
Re: " ...Also be careful if you attempt to remove the suspension fork "Hinge Pins"..... use heat and a brass or aluminum driver.... NO Steel Driver. "

I've found that with drives of dubious history that it is safer and easier to drive those pins ( per Ricardo's suggestion) from the inside towards the outside. This avoids jamming the pins in the transom shield bores if there is any mushrooming damage by previous "mechanics".

Also... replace the plastic bushings.
 
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Windy Bay said:
Picture 1 and 2 are of the drive that came with the boat.
Yes... understood.

I have no idea if that is the original drive. It was on a 1980 model year boat.
To my knowledge........ the 290 was not yet available in 1980.

Picture 3 and 4 are the package that I am looking at. They are asking $2500. It is advertised as an 89. What I think you are saying is that drive is a heavier duty drive. (Good?)
I'm only suggesting that the transmission gear case is the heavier "A" style case.

As I said in the previous post, that would also provide me with the engine dressing.

My other question remains. Would the drive in pics 3, use the same transom cutout as the drive in pic 1?
Theoretically, yes!



The 290 is OK..... but keep in mind that you are only a few years away from a C or later drive.
Click to expand...


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