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Throttle Control Replacement - Help Me Choose!

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kloos1502

New member
Hi everyone! I've got a 1984 Chris Craft Scorpion 230 with a Mercruiser Sterndrive. The throttle control is a console mount, and it's the original but is on its way out physically and needs to be replaced. I'm looking for a low cost but quality replacement. Will consider after market or OEM if it's quality (OEM not required). Can you help me source one? I believe I have Gen I cables, and have been told that there are assemblies out there that can use this existing cabling, and others require the Gen II which sounds like significantly more work. Is there a reason to also swap cabling? I can provide pictures of current control if that will help. Thanks!
 
Whats wrong with the original?

The main "box" that the handle mounts to is the same one I believe was used until the late 80's. It is just mounted vertical vs horizontal when its mounted to the side panel near the drivers seat.

Very good design and is servicable
 
Hi Jack, thanks for the reply! I'll include a photo to help show what's currently wrong. (Photo can be seen here via Google Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8h3pS7RTR3jMFrji9)

In order from the top down:
-The trim control is at the end of this rubber top piece. The rubber piece is cracked and slides around freely, sometimes rotating a full 180 degrees around the metal rod. Its currently taped down but is getting worse.
-The black button you press to go into neutral will often stick, making it hard to depress, and will often not "pop" back out
-The base of the assembly is loose, and has a lot of play to it

Is it still worth fixing based on all of these problems? I'd really like to get something in there that works smoothly and reliably.
 
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I'm looking for a low cost but quality replacement.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... That, ^^^, doesn't exist,....

For yers,.....
The trim button looks like an add-on,..... use better tape,......
Or, get 1 like mine, a 3-way toggle switch mounted to the steerin' wheel base, 'n a plastic extension, so it looks like a signal light switch on a car,.....
By extendin' my left fingers from the wheel, I can tap the trim, up, or down,....

For the sticky button,....... Lube it,......

For the loose cover, tighten the screws if there are any, or see why it's loose, 'n fix what's broken,.....
 
Thanks but I'd prefer not to fix what's broken and just go with a full on replacement. It's clearly been band-aided over the years and I want to avoid something breaking when I'm out in the water. I realize "low cost quality" is somewhat of an oxymoron, I'm just trying to emphasize that I would like something that is decent quality, but doesn't need to be top of the line and is somewhat economical.

bondo said:
Ayuh,..... That, ^^^, doesn't exist,....

For yers,.....
The trim button looks like an add-on,..... use better tape,......
Or, get 1 like mine, a 3-way toggle switch mounted to the steerin' wheel base, 'n a plastic extension, so it looks like a signal light switch on a car,.....
By extendin' my left fingers from the wheel, I can tap the trim, up, or down,....

For the sticky button,....... Lube it,......

For the loose cover, tighten the screws if there are any, or see why it's loose, 'n fix what's broken,.....
Click to expand...
 
Thank you! That is actually one I had come across. Do you know what the "Tilt Switch" is? I'm wondering if I could go with the slightly lower end model that doesn't have that (CHX8151P). Follow up question, this one uses existing cabling which to me seems like a huge plus, whereas others I've found require Gen II cabling, which means I would have to re-cable. Is there any benefit of re-cabling with Gen II at the same time? Or should I leave existing cabling in place if there are no issues with it?

I had also come across an OEM option, and then a knock off OEM option, considerably cheaper. I guess I'm wondering how they would stack up, and whether the SeaStar you suggest is worth the substantial price increase.

o2batsea said:
Prepare for sticker shock. However you don't need the slickest thing just one that does the job. Teleflex/Morse is now SeaStar.. They make pretty good stuff. Our hosts can supply you with what you need: http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessory.php?in=3463503
Click to expand...
 
Here is what I found,

Handle, New appears to be in stock. Note: trim switch and cap where switch is held in place on top of handle must be reusable.

If not here is.

cap
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER92741

Switch
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER87-8M0046008

Handle
https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/317449.cfm?clearcache


Cover, if loose maybe be replaced or possibly repaired. I believe you can still fine new or good used. It is only a cover and it can be made to stay in place with some thought if broken.
if not this site has new.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER14389A+2

Neutral start/shift disengagement button, I have parts to repair that and have done so to many of those shift controls. Restores to brand new! See image below.


Question is where do you live?
Can you remove the control yourself?

You have two shift cable to disconnect, Neutral safety wires to cut, Trim wires need to be cut if you cant get entire three wire harness removed which goes all the way to the trim pump. If you can unplug it at pump and pull it back to control then no wires need to be cut. Otherwise cut wires a few feet away from control and solder them back together after reinstalling control.


OR NEW

https://www.ebay.com/p/Genuine-Merc...l-8M0059686/707807878?iid=372394270641&chn=ps


https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MerCru...z:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!01532!US!-1:rk:93:pf:0



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser...=item5436c3dccb:g:ioMAAOSwEYBaYUaF:rk:51:pf:0
 

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I would spend the extra $$ on a new Gen 2 Quick Silver Control with new cables. The new control boxes are redesigned and give almost a DTS feel to them. The new Gen 2 boxes have a stationary cable mount on the box, you no longer need to make room for pivoting cables at the helm.
 
Thanks for all the helpful links!

So I am in Burlington VT/Plattsburgh NY. I'm fairly certain that I could remove the control myself. Question is, do I really want to piece together parts for the original control, when I could just replace it outright? I'm leaning towards the latter unless there's a compelling reason to keep the original.

kghost said:
Here is what I found,

Handle, New appears to be in stock. Note: trim switch and cap where switch is held in place on top of handle must be reusable.

If not here is.

cap
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER92741

Switch
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER87-8M0046008

Handle
https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/317449.cfm?clearcache


Cover, if loose maybe be replaced or possibly repaired. I believe you can still fine new or good used. It is only a cover and it can be made to stay in place with some thought if broken.
if not this site has new.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MER14389A+2

Neutral start/shift disengagement button, I have parts to repair that and have done so to many of those shift controls. Restores to brand new! See image below.


Question is where do you live?
Can you remove the control yourself?

You have two shift cable to disconnect, Neutral safety wires to cut, Trim wires need to be cut if you cant get entire three wire harness removed which goes all the way to the trim pump. If you can unplug it at pump and pull it back to control then no wires need to be cut. Otherwise cut wires a few feet away from control and solder them back together after reinstalling control.


OR NEW

https://www.ebay.com/p/Genuine-Merc...l-8M0059686/707807878?iid=372394270641&chn=ps


https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MerCru...z:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!01532!US!-1:rk:93:pf:0



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser...=item5436c3dccb:g:ioMAAOSwEYBaYUaF:rk:51:pf:0
Click to expand...
 
I agree with Chris,




On the other hand when I am dealing with "certain" people I am asked to rebuild them.

The neutral button issues is well known. Easy fix. I have had the luxury of fixing a dozen or so. Keep a few parts in stock just for that control box.

The handle and associated parts can be a bit more trouble due to the wiring and switch. But not impossible.

The internal metal mechanical parts are very durable and last a long time, some fresh grease and it works like new.

Your call. What ever works best for you
 
As an option, and if the mounting area would allow, you could go with the tried and proven Morse Twin S control.
(not SeaChoice, not SeaStar, not the Morse Twin SR, not the Morse U-Flex, not the MT3, nor any knock-offs...... get the real Morse Twin S)


You will NEVER have trouble with a true "Morse" Twin S control unit.
A good used Morse Twin S will outlast your boat.
There is a crusty one on e-Bay right now for $50. You can find near perfect units for a few more bucks.




Shown below is left side Shift (black knob)..... right side Throttle (red knob)...... I would reverse these.

These require the 33C style cables, of which can be easily adapted for the Merc connection.

You would need to use an alternate means of tilt/trim control switching.






Again, this will work only if the mounting area will allow enough space for the Shift handle on the right side.
 

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RicardoMarine
Re: Throttle Control Replacement - Help Me Choose!
As an option, and if the mounting area would allow, you could go with the tried and proven Morse Twin S control.
(not SeaChoice, not SeaStar, not the Morse Twin SR, not the Morse U-Flex, not the MT3, nor any knock-offs...... get the real Morse Twin S)


You will NEVER have trouble with a true "Morse" Twin S control unit.
A good used Morse Twin S will outlast your boat.
There is a crusty one on e-Bay right now for $50. You can find near perfect units for a few more bucks.




Shown below is left side Shift (black knob)..... right side Throttle (red knob)...... I would reverse these.

These require the 33C style cables, of which can be easily adapted for the Merc connection.

You would need to use an alternate means of tilt/trim control switching.






Again, this will work only if the mounting area will allow enough space for the Shift handle on the right side.
​



Ridiculous
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
mcomm said:
RicardoMarine
Re: Throttle Control Replacement - Help Me Choose!
As an option, and if the mounting area would allow, you could go with the tried and proven Morse Twin S control.
(not SeaChoice, not SeaStar, not the Morse Twin SR, not the Morse U-Flex, not the MT3, nor any knock-offs...... get the real Morse Twin S)


You will NEVER have trouble with a true "Morse" Twin S control unit.
A good used Morse Twin S will outlast your boat.
There is a crusty one on e-Bay right now for $50. You can find near perfect units for a few more bucks.




Shown below is left side Shift (black knob)..... right side Throttle (red knob)...... I would reverse these.

These require the 33C style cables, of which can be easily adapted for the Merc connection.

You would need to use an alternate means of tilt/trim control switching.






Again, this will work only if the mounting area will allow enough space for the Shift handle on the right side.
​



Ridiculous
Click to expand...



You got that right.......as usual, doesn't fit the subject matter
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
mcomm said:
RicardoMarine
Re: Throttle Control Replacement - Help Me Choose!
As an option, and if the mounting area would allow, you could go with the tried and proven Morse Twin S control.
(not SeaChoice, not SeaStar, not the Morse Twin SR, not the Morse U-Flex, not the MT3, nor any knock-offs...... get the real Morse Twin S)


You will NEVER have trouble with a true "Morse" Twin S control unit.
A good used Morse Twin S will outlast your boat.
There is a crusty one on e-Bay right now for $50. You can find near perfect units for a few more bucks.




Shown below is left side Shift (black knob)..... right side Throttle (red knob)...... I would reverse these.

These require the 33C style cables, of which can be easily adapted for the Merc connection.

You would need to use an alternate means of tilt/trim control switching.






Again, this will work only if the mounting area will allow enough space for the Shift handle on the right side.
​




Ridiculous
Click to expand...

This is not the way to go on a stern drive.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
The Morse Twin S has been used successfully with stern drives for years and years.

My own boat is a dual station/twin engine cabin cruiser w/ Volvo Penta DP stern drives.
The boat is fitted with the Morse Twin S controls (4 total).
They have worked perfectly.
 
RicardoMarine said:
The Morse Twin S has been used successfully with stern drives for years and years.

My own boat is a dual station/twin engine cabin cruiser w/ Volvo Penta DP stern drives.
The boat is fitted with the Morse Twin S controls (4 total).
They have worked perfectly.
Click to expand...
Sorry Rick, What you like in your own boat is fine.

I have removed twin stick controls from more than a dozen boats at the customers request. Especially Livorsi zero effort. Seasoned boaters like them, your average boater does not like them with a stern drive.
 
.....................
Docksidemarineservices said:
Sorry Rick, What you like in your own boat is fine.
Chris, no need to apologize...... and you are correct! What I like or prefer on my own boat is just fine. In fact, my like of the Twin S is why I made the suggestion to the OP..... and just a suggestion!

I have removed twin stick controls from more than a dozen boats at the customers request. Especially Livorsi zero effort.
OK.... but how many Twin S units have you removed because a customer was having trouble with it? The other units..... I can understand. I have removed the other troublesome units, and have replaced them with the Twin S.

Seasoned boaters like them, your average boater does not like them with a stern drive.
Chris, it is one thing to voice an opinion, and it's another thing to voice an opinion with some founded back-up giving an explanation as to why or why not!

I am a long time seasoned boater.
I began boating in the 50's with my Dad and Grandfather.
Later in life, I began owning my own boats.
After having a few single lever Throttle/Shift unit boats (stern drive boats), I found that I much prefer the twin lever throttle/shift units...... and in particular the Twin S.

Click to expand...


Here's the other deal. This is an open forum. We are all welcome to voice our opinions as long as we keep it civil, adult like, etc.
We are all hopefully trying to make suggestions to the OP that will help him/her make a good decision for his/her issue.
In order to do that, we call upon our own experiences and we share them!
My suggestion of the Morse Twin S is just as valid as any other suggestion.
It all boils down to....... each to his own, and that is why we can only make suggestions for an OP.


The bottom line is..... let the OP read through the info, then let him consider the suggestions and then make his own decision.
It's that simple.

When members like Jack and mcomm make immature, un-explained and unfounded comments ("ridiculous" for example), it is not only un-becoming of the MarineEngine.com forum, it does ZERO to help the OP.

If you have something to say that is in contrast with another member, be adult like and fully explain yourself!


One more thing........... perhaps go back and read the thread title again, and read post #1 again.
Look at what the OP is asking!



.
 
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"""When members like Ricardo makes immature, unexplained and unfounded comments unrelated to the specific subject matter"

Ya the pot calling the kettle black..............

The ridiculous comment came from another observant participant!

The OP asked about repair or replace of his ORIGINAL control. Not a dual station control as you represented.

He has a Mercruiser, Not a Swedish fish.

He has a single control. Not a dual.

I gave him many options, Chris gave him a NEW control option that would satisfy his situation. Other gave their opinions on used or new but no reccomendations

That was enough said................

You on the other hand gave all this additional unrelated your opinion only and more specifically UNWANTED commentary on what you have and what you like and what you think is best when in reality is not applicable to his original question.
 
Kloos, if you are still on board here, please let me clarify Mr. Ego Boy's statements.
the OP asked about repair or replace of his ORIGINAL control. Not a dual station control as you represented.
Click to expand...

kloos, Mr. Ego Boy is mis-informed, and perhaps has ever even seen a Twin S control.
the Morse Twin S can be used:

...... for either a single or dual station hull.
...... as one unit in a single station single engine scenario, such as yours!
...... as two units in a single station twin engine scenario.
...... as two units in a dual station single engine scenario.
...... as four units in a dual station twin engine scenario such as my own boat.


He has a Mercruiser, Not a Swedish fish.
Click to expand...
The Twin S can be made to work with a Merc just as well.

He has a single control. Not a dual.
Click to expand...
Yes, we all know that! And to further that, he has not only a single control, but a single lever control!

My suggestion was to try a dual lever control.
Based on my own experience, I would never go back to a single lever control after having dual lever controls.

And by the way, this has ZERO to do with single station, dual station, single engine or twin engines!



.
 
I guess brother Ricardo doesn't like the snow, makes him cranky. Me too! I just came down off my 6300 square foot pole barn with 2 feet of snow. If that caves in I am a cooked buzzard. Can't afford to hire a kid to help, they will fall off and sue me. Shoveling that monster is like taking a pee to a forest fire. You two are good entertainment, I'm gonna start doing more stern drives......pays really good, those guys got some serious cash to spend.
 
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Yes, it a bit of a novelty out there. You live in a great area. Just calculated the 26 inches of snow on this pole barn roof and it comes to 200,000 pounds, 1/4th the weight of a 747 Jumbo Jet. I'm cutting a 10 foot wide slice down each 90 foot side, hope it works.1549830546775152.jpg
 
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Have owned a number of boats since 1964.. and run a fair number of other folks boat ( I had a USCG 50T Masters for many years). On a seasonal basis for the last 20 years, I've run not only my own boat but my YC's power boats. My favorite is our 23 Mako I/B with Morse twin lever controls. If I could find the room on my present boat, I'd convert from the first generation Morse Single lever to twin levers.

IMHO.... for the average 5 times a season boater, stick with single lever... but get a good one... an MT-2 if it will work for you. There are several boats at my YC , (including a club owed one) that are over 30 years old and in frequent, trouble free, use. Hopefully the current production ones aren't junk. Dual lever is like stick shift. Requires more finess, but better results... especially for close quarter docking.
 
sandkicker said:
........................... My favorite is our 23 Mako I/B with Morse twin lever controls. If I could find the room on my present boat, I'd convert from the first generation Morse Single lever to twin levers.

......................... Dual lever is like stick shift. Requires more finess, but better results... especially for close quarter docking.
Click to expand...

Bob, you echo my thoughts!
This is exactly why I made the suggestion to the OP, and why I prefaced it with; "As an option, and if the mounting area would allow!"

 
timguy said:
Excellent input from Capt. Bob, agreed 100 percent. Ricardo....."you da man".
Click to expand...

You two should get married....you are meant for each other! Get to play in the snow and all..........stick your tongues to ice cold steel poles and giggle like little gurls.




Capt bob did says his (Morse control) was for a inboard I/B.....................different than an I/O.............just saying

My control box, OEM Mercruiser, the same as the OP....................turned 32 years old this year. Works like new and has never been worked on and I average a lot more that 5 times a year of use! More like 100 hrs + a year.

So all arguments are moot against OEM Mercruiser!
 
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