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Building live well that drains overboard and bubbles at sleeptime

TheBrain

Regular Contributor
Building live well that drains overboard and bubbles at sleeptime

I would like to have a live well made out of a 5 gallon bucket placed on aft deck to keep cigar minnows ,croakers, pinfish ect.

My plan is to use a 800GPH pump this https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Livew...7MJFQVN5N6Y&psc=1&refRID=TAPFXRYZ27MJFQVN5N6Y

[h=1]to pump in raw water in into bucket this Live Well Aerator Spray [/h]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ5F9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


then have a drain a tad lower than inlet using a though hull this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LR4LPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

so basically I’m pumping in aerated fresh water from couple inches from top of bucket and draining overboard.

?1. is my 800GPH to much power for a smallish 5 gallon bucket probably 4 gallons inside? Or can my aerator be adjusted to be less forcefull I don’t want to blast the fish w/ to much current.

?2. should the drain hole be larger than the inlet hole? I’m thinking it has to be much larger since the drain isn’t pressurized I’d be pumping in more than can be drained? I think this is why store bought LWs have 2 pumps 1 for in 1 for out ,There will be a lid however it’s not airtight around lid.

?3. Or will the water drain out as fast as it enters even if both inlet and drain where the same diameter?
?4. how much lower should the drain be from the inlet?

?5. even though the fish eat there own poo poo will they require feeding or will they survive a day or two on reeating poop or eating the dead fish?


At night time or sleep time (just a few hours) I was planning to use a battery operated air bubble pump like my fish aquarium has, or do fish need a current to swim against all the time?

Would also expect to be able to transport live sea life on a 8hour drive w/ just the bubbler.


I was actually planning 2 live wells (just in case I catch a bunch of bait) the aft deck 5 gallon and a 22 gallon on deck, would like to start off w/ a 5 gallon bucket and ditch the troll a bait container that stays in raw water.

thanks for advice
 
800gph is overkill. Half of that much flow would be plenty an maybe still more than you need. Will depend somewhat on water temps though. More heat means more flow needed. Will that pump prime in the location you are mounting it? Will the drain have a pipe on it or just drop onto the deck? If dropping on the deck maybe just drill a bunch of small holes in the lid as the drain or cut a hole and put mesh over it. Keeping fish alive for any length of time will mean not putting too many in the bucket even with a bubbler etc. Bait fish don't generally need a current to survive, but I have always used a sprayer to aerate rather than a bubbler. Sprayers work OK but not sure how the bubbler might work.
 
Will the drain have a pipe on it or just drop onto the deck? .
no self bailing deck so yes pipe overboard.
raw water pick up tube 5/8" inside diameter. gravity drain tube twice the size at 1 1/8"ID.

I've read this pump can be 6' above waterlevel my pump just inside splashwell.
still waiting for responses on ?2-5
thanks
 

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no self bailing deck so yes pipe overboard.
raw water pick up tube 5/8" inside diameter. gravity drain tube twice the size at 1 1/8"ID.
....still waiting for responses on ?2-5
Those inlet and outlet diameters are what I'd use. Also, I would put an outlet screen on the drain to keep any little fellas from getting stuck in the drain hole. https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Stai...1AP0M13J381ZPV6M2&refRID=0BK1AP0M13J381ZPV6M2

800 GPH is definitely more flow than needed. I'm not sure that it needs to run continuously. You might think about using an automatic live well timer to control on-off cycles and extend the pump life: https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Lectronics-VARIABLE-Livewell-Aerator/dp/B06ZZ2PFYC

Finally, if you're going to run this pump that much, I would put the pump on isolated battery (or bank of batteries) and I would also put a solar charger(s) on that battery to help keep the battery up. I would not rely on your boat charging system to keep that battery alive if you're going to be out for extended excursions. A friend of mine went to Alaska last summer in a slide-in truck camper. He had 2 batteries wired in parallel with 3 solar panels totaling 350W of max charging. Those batteries were running his fridge, lights, water pump, etc. He said the entire trip his batteries showed good charge and never went dead.

If you run this pump off your main batteries you run the risk of killing your power and being stranded. You're not going to pull-start that 175, so you need to be sure have some battery capacity available for starting when you're out on those GoM fishing trips.

KJ
 
Those inlet and outlet diameters are what I'd use. Also, I would put an outlet screen on the drain to keep any little fellas from getting stuck in the drain hole. https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Stai...1AP0M13J381ZPV6M2&refRID=0BK1AP0M13J381ZPV6M2

800 GPH is definitely more flow than needed. I'm not sure that it needs to run continuously. You might think about using an automatic live well timer to control on-off cycles and extend the pump life: https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Lectronics-VARIABLE-Livewell-Aerator/dp/B06ZZ2PFYC

Finally, if you're going to run this pump that much, I would put the pump on isolated battery (or bank of batteries) and I would also put a solar charger(s) on that battery to help keep the battery up. I would not rely on your boat charging system to keep that battery alive if you're going to be out for extended excursions. A friend of mine went to Alaska last summer in a slide-in truck camper. He had 2 batteries wired in parallel with 3 solar panels totaling 350W of max charging. Those batteries were running his fridge, lights, water pump, etc. He said the entire trip his batteries showed good charge and never went dead.

If you run this pump off your main batteries you run the risk of killing your power and being stranded. You're not going to pull-start that 175, so you need to be sure have some battery capacity available for starting when you're out on those GoM fishing trips.

KJ
excellent advice as uselle I have the same screen on the end of the raw water pickup. I'll probably fab a small piece of aluminum w/ a bunch of holes for the drain tube.

I'm planning a momentary 12V on switch for the live well pump probably every half hour give it a few minute shot so either tank won't be on for any extended period of time remember I have the bubble that runs off either 1 or 2 AA batteries.

I have been replacing the main engine battery for the last previous seasons however this time last years battery has been on the charger/ conditioner as well as my car and lawn mowers batterys. I've been switching the charger between the three.

usally drive the car this time of year been working on getting it ship shape for the road w/ new front bumper driver door it's alot of time/planning and excuting.

the battery situation will evolve into a decent sized solar panels ect.. currently using just the 1 starting battery, concidering since my starting battery is allready one year old it should be replaced correct? w/ a deep cycle house battery.

?1.can a deep cycle house battery be used to start engine if the main start battery goe's dead? I'm confussed on switchs used to combine the two batteries to the main engines charginging i bought a battery isolater however it was defective or I had it connected wronge.

my battery charger/conditioner
?2.should it be connected to battery thoughout the winter never disconnecting? charger has 3 outputs however I'm only charging one at a time.

additional stuff I have two land based solar chargers right now.
1.small portable charger/battery bank and flashlight w/ SOS signaling used to recharg cell phone/tablet and Onzie angle 3 audiou speaker.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GK35FT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2.second small charger is more of a topper offer not a full flegded charger, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRHDIPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I read a little about a 45wat solar panel but when I read the weight associated w/ it 50LBs I will have to carefulley plan the panel also plan where it's situated for some shade directly behind and elevated the aft. cabin.
Thanks TB
 
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Good idea on making the outlet screen. I'd say just something to keep them from getting in outlet.

To help with temperature regulation, could you use an old 48qt cooler instead of a 5 gallon bucket? With an insulated lid that should help keep the bait fish from getting over heated. I bet you could find one at a resale shop for a few bucks.

A momentary switch is fine, but that requires you to remember to engage the switch. The automatic timer I linked to is a nice, set it and forget it device.

Solar panels can be really light weight. My friend used flexible panels that only weight a couple of pounds each. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kath-Monocry...ocphy=9022539&hvtargid=pla-570657576845&psc=1

You stick them down on the roof with dicor sealant then tape the edges with Eternabond: https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-R...ocphy=9022539&hvtargid=pla-436825094148&psc=1

I believe the battery switches only connect the positive cables, so you would need to have the negative cables bonded between the two batteries if you wanted to use the house battery for starting in an emergency. However, if you aren't going to use that 2nd battery on a regular basis you might consider just keeping a set of jumper cables in the boat for those emergency situations.

If you maintain your batteries well, you should be able to get 5 years out of them. Typically I like to replace batteries by about 60 months to stay ahead of a potential break down.

To maintain the batteries in the winter you should make sure there is no current draw on them. Then, about once a month put them on a trickle charger for a day or two then disconnect the charger. That should be all that's necessary to keep the battery in top shape. Leaving chargers connected for long periods of time can over charge the battery and cause the water to evaporate.
 
Good idea on making the outlet screen. I'd say just something to keep them from getting in outlet.

Ayuh,..... Actually, a stand-pipe drain is the best,.......

Otherwise, the bait tries to swim out the drain tube, or with a screen over it, the screen gets clogged with the bait's shed scales,......
 
Ayuh,..... Actually, a stand-pipe drain is the best,.......

Otherwise, the bait tries to swim out the drain tube, or with a screen over it, the screen gets clogged with the bait's shed scales,......
I've decided to use a 40quart w/ a 500GPH this drain in upper side of cooler.
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-ODT-1-DP-Overflow-Drain-Tube/dp/B0000AXQSQ

I was planning a drain tube (just a tube) near top of cooler, use 800GPH to fill tank then use 500GPH to momentarily recirculate.

here's the cooler LW
 

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Ayuh,..... That stand-pipe should work,........

I have read that bait dies in square tanks, as they swim into the corners, 'n die,......
Round tanks, they just school in circles,....
 
decide against upward drain like the drain is on the bottom, my cooler requires it be resting on a flat surface.

ultimately I expect to have a 3way after pump.
1.live well
2.wash down
 

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here getting close to pumping water.
need to ream the aft lid to facilitate raw water pickup up to bucket.

discharge tube is a tad larger than 5/8" hopefully will drain more than pump in will step up to 1 1/8" if extra drainage is needed.

plan to route discharge tube behind rod holder the add small piece of bucket for bottom support.

I fabbed an aluminum hinge bolted to the lid the whole lid is hinged it also seals securely.
TB
 

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