https://www.outboardignition.com/support/114-7509.pdf
1. Disconnect and clean all engine and battery ground wires. 2. Disconnect the old CDM Module and remove the high tension coil wire from the spark plug. 3. Unbolt and remove the old CDM Module. (Note the direction of the spark plug wire). 4. Check for DC voltage on the kill (stop) wires (usually Black/Yellow) with the key-switch in the on and off position. At no time should you see over 2 volts DC on this wire as severe damage to the power pack can occur. 5. Apply a light amount of dielectric grease (i.e. CDI 991-9705) to the seal area of the wire connector from the engine harness. 6. Apply a light amount of dielectric grease to the outside of the new spark plug wire and thread the spark plug wire into the new CDM Module. 7. Bolt the new CDM Module onto the engine (orient the new CDM Module so that the spark plug wire is pointed in the same direction as the original). 8. Plug in the connector from the wire harness into the new CDM Module and connect the spark plug wire to the spark plug.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE 114-7509
No Fire At All: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and see if the other modules start firing. If they do, the module you just unplugged is bad. 3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier. 4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 5. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more 6. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading CDM Pin # A C CDI 2200-2400 Ohms – OEM 1200-1300 ohms CDM Pin # D A DIODE* CDM Pin # A D DIODE* CDM Pin # D B DIODE* CDM Pin # B D DIODE* CDM Pin # A B DIODE* High Tension Lead A OEM 700-1300 Ohms – CDI 2200-2400 Ohms * Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other. No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders: 1. If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. 2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry built into them, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you could the older engines. In addition, there are four triggering coils used.
3. If # 1 is not firing, disconnect #2 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If it does not, disconnect #3 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. 4. If # 2 or #3 are not firing, swap locations with #1 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no fire on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger. High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.