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50 hp force power pack

they were all squeezed till they are flat so maybe. they were up against the outer threads of a bolt so thats possible. will be going outside in a. few to check for 12v to packs. also tims outboard did have 1 of the pack for around $95 shipped to me so i should order it tomorrow
 
Great, glad they could help. I found one for a 25 yesterday, but not sure if its the same, probably should look it up. Never got the 25 running so I'm not sure if its good anyway.
 
Ok so i did the test with a multi meter for any voltage going to where the coil packs connect. There are 6 wires coming frow under the fly wheel area going to where both power packs connect. There are 2 blue wires, 1 green/white wire , 1 green wire, 1 orange wire and 1 red wire. With the key in the on position, there is 12v reading from both blue wires, thede is nothing from green/ white wire, nothing from green wire, nothing from red wire , and the orange wire is reading 10.2 v. Is that normal. Please let me know
 
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Okay, check the packs next....unplugged. Is there any continuity from the blue wires to ground? Next check the orange wire to ground, any continuity here to ground? Are both packs the same reading.....no way, right? Bad pack probably shows continuity.
 
Ok so when i did the test today both packs was still connected to the block. So should i now disconnect both packs and test the wires coming out of each packs individually ?
 
Doesn't look right. 0. is a direct flow (shorted).......no resistance.....(resistance meaning we are blocking conductivity), the higher the resistance, the less flow through a circuit. 1. is open, (full resistance)...no continuity, right? So when you read "001" it means open circuit, right? Has to be! So then pack #1. orange, is 600 ohms resistance. That must be the bad pack? Looking at pack #2, we see almost full open from blue to ground as well. Blue, coming into the pack....is 12 volts, right? So we can't tolerate any continuity blue to ground, as well as orange to ground where you read 10 volts from your supply side on orange. I'm going out to my shop right now to grab a dead pack that I saved off a Chrysler. Will report back right away.
 
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Ok peeps so i messed up on the test. I used the wrong setting on the multi meter. Here are the updated results from all wires coming out of power pack.

Pack #1

Green wire. 1.2
Orange. 49.9
Blue. 40.2
Brown 40.2

Pack #2

Green wire. 1.3
Orange. 0.0
Blue. 0.0
Brown. 0.0
 
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Okay. We are 250 ohms resistance from blue to ground, in one direction, but reverse the polarity putting black ohmeter lead on blue and we are open......no conductivity. So reading should be 1(on digital meter)......I use an analog meter....old school, but way better for checking rheostats, etc.... Now on my pack we have a ground to green at 0.....direct short, with both polarities, probably indicating it is shot. Orange to ground on mine is about 1000 ohms, then reverse the wires putting black ohmeter lead on orange, and we get 250 ohms. Looking at Brown we are 225 ohms, but reverse polarity is open. So with flows in 1 direction and not the other, we can assume the diodes are okay. There is no part # on this one but a patent # of 3,741,185. Sorry, but any good packs around here are likely out in 2 feet of snow.
 
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So when reversing polarity on blue, pack #1. You get open....no continuity? Diodes flow in one direction and not the other ( when they are good). They often are used to change ac current, to dc current. I save them out of old car and truck alternators and they are a heavy duty alternative to fix outboard charging systems, battery chargers, etc........I prefer the mid 70's GM Alternators for these diodes, they are brutally tough.
 
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Nice.it did read 1 on the digital meter but since that number didnt change i called it 0. So what can u conclude from my results?
 
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Sorry, got sidetracked and checked out the game. This confirms a shorted pack #2. That's what I see. To double check, if you reverse polarities on pack #2 and still get 0, we are pretty certain it failed from that short/pinched wire, then melted internally from imbalances resulting in a complete short. The exciter/stator should be checked now for resistance and output before installing the replacement. We still can't rule out a "spike" from the exciter. Probably should let me freshen up proper procedure from my manual. Think I might recommend you wait until we walk through this, before we toast another pack.
 
Ok i see. The weird thing is that pack#2 is the working pack. Ther is no spark from pack #1. I will let someone give it a better test fir me at work today
 
The pack that is good is the one not melted, is that pack 1 or 2? So #2 is the good pack? (check post 39)
 
Pack #2 is the good pack. So i received a pack that i ordered to go with the other good pack i had. I installed it lastnight just to see what might happen. When i turned the key nothing happened, only the chike wirked when I mash the key. Something is hindering the motor from turning over.
 
That could be a very good chance of it been the key switch. Couple times befor i turned off the switch and the motor kept running. I had to use the kill switch
 
Unhook the battery, WD 40 or Contact cleaner "IN" the switch.
Activate the switch and choke.
Then hook the battery back up and try the switch again.
 
Ok i will do that today. I disconnected both packs and try to turn it over but nothing happened. Only the choke worked when i push in the key choke
 
Battery hot?
12 volt test light or meter??
Have someone test the solenoid (yellow/black or yellow /red lead)as you turn the key.
 
Ok sorry fir the delay in respond. I found out that there was some wiring issues (miswire). I was sending 12 v to one of my power packs. There was a purple wire which is ignition switch 12v going to the area marked magneto . There are 2 areas marked magneto one has the black /yellow for the kill switch and the other should have ground wire. I had the 12v going to that spot. Dang wat a mess
 
See posts 14, 16, 22, 23, 25. Some of this makes no sense! Careful with that power! Sometimes "swapping" can dig you in deeper! I learned that lesson the hard way, Mike.
 
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Tim you are 100% a natural . You knew something didnt sound right or wasnt adding up. I hope the stator is still functioning as should. Is there a procedure to test it? And also i hope the trigger didnt go bad. Thanks in advance for the help that you'll have be giving me
 
https://www.outboardignition.com/support/114-7509.pdf

1. Disconnect and clean all engine and battery ground wires. 2. Disconnect the old CDM Module and remove the high tension coil wire from the spark plug. 3. Unbolt and remove the old CDM Module. (Note the direction of the spark plug wire). 4. Check for DC voltage on the kill (stop) wires (usually Black/Yellow) with the key-switch in the on and off position. At no time should you see over 2 volts DC on this wire as severe damage to the power pack can occur. 5. Apply a light amount of dielectric grease (i.e. CDI 991-9705) to the seal area of the wire connector from the engine harness. 6. Apply a light amount of dielectric grease to the outside of the new spark plug wire and thread the spark plug wire into the new CDM Module. 7. Bolt the new CDM Module onto the engine (orient the new CDM Module so that the spark plug wire is pointed in the same direction as the original). 8. Plug in the connector from the wire harness into the new CDM Module and connect the spark plug wire to the spark plug.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE 114-7509
No Fire At All: 1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch. 2. Disconnect one CDM module at a time and see if the other modules start firing. If they do, the module you just unplugged is bad. 3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier. 4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly. 5. Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:
WIRE Read To OEM RESISTANCE DVA White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more 6. Check the resistance of the CDM as follows: Red Meter Lead Black Meter Lead Reading CDM Pin # A C CDI 2200-2400 Ohms – OEM 1200-1300 ohms CDM Pin # D A DIODE* CDM Pin # A D DIODE* CDM Pin # D B DIODE* CDM Pin # B D DIODE* CDM Pin # A B DIODE* High Tension Lead A OEM 700-1300 Ohms – CDI 2200-2400 Ohms * Diode readings are to be read one way, then reverse the leads and read again. You should get a low reading in one direction and a higher reading in the other. No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders: 1. If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders. 2. Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger DVA output as given below: Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading Purple wire Engine GND Open 1V or more White wire Engine GND Open 1V or more Brown wire Engine GND Open 1V or more NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry built into them, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you could the older engines. In addition, there are four triggering coils used.
3. If # 1 is not firing, disconnect #2 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If it does not, disconnect #3 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. 4. If # 2 or #3 are not firing, swap locations with #1 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no fire on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger. High Speed Miss: 1. Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module. 2. Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem. 3. Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
 
Hey thanks for taking the time the time out to put this list together for me. Am sure someone else will also benefit from this. I will do my best to do the necessary checks. Will follow up
 
This info was copied from outboardignitiondotcom.
They have a trouble section for a bunch of outboards.
They also sell parts.
 
That's for the older Chrysler Motors.
Electro is still in business.
They might have instructions?

I saw this being bused by the lead mechanic back when I started on boats in 1986
I never used one.
 
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