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115 Fast Strike Problem

DougTckr

New member
I have a Johnson 115 fast strike (about 96 model). Runs greatright off of trailer but when gets hot will not idle or start. Even hot will run great with throttle open but if I let off of it I am stuck in the water. One mechanic told me this was an issue with older 115 models and that they developed small fishers/cracks and it was not repariable. Anyone have any info?
 
For starters you might consider a new mechanic !------What does a compression test show ?------What other real trouble shooting has been done if any ?
 
Through years have had various things done (carb rebuilds etc...) Have also diconnected auto oiler. Compressions are good and motor starts and idles well when cold. Will run great until gets hot but if back off of trottle at that time it will not idle and will die and most times not start till cold next morning If lucky enough to start hot and I can get in the throttle fast enough to put fuel to it I can get it going again. Typically I am not able to do that and am stuck in the water
 
Are float bowls on carburetors warped ?----Have you checked them ?-----What is " good " compression ?----Post a number to make that mean something.-----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more when you have the hot " no start " condition ?
 
I do not have any of those numbers/information. Perhaps I should start by taking to a different mechanic, I just know the symptoms and know very little about outboard mechanic work. Hate to think "not fixable" is my only option and tired of getting stranded or just being able to make quick jumps when fishing to prevent from it getting hot and not starting
 
Sometimes the " not fixable " term is used to mean.----------1,We do not have the tools.----2, we do not have a good mechanic.----3 we are not able to make easy money on this repair.----4 We can make money if you buy a new motor.-----A polite way of saying --" please go somewhere else " in my opinion. !!
 
Doug...
Do not use generalities such as compression is good... spark is great, that sort of thing. It means nothing to us.

What is the model number of that engine?

By "Hot", what exactly do you mean. How Hot? Also, do your best to describe in detail exactly what the engine is doing or not doing. Is the engine actually overheating... That HOT? Is the water shooting out of the water outlet tell-tale fitting with a strong forceful flow?

What is the actual compression PSI reading of each individual cylinder?

Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are numbered as follows:
2....1
4....3

The spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

If you don't have the basic tools already..... Purchase a compression tester and a spark tester with an adjustable gap where you can set a 7/16" air gap. (Very reasonable priced tools) available at most auto part stores. The spark tester you can build if you like as follows:
********************
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
********************
Let us know what you find.
 
Sometimes the " not fixable " term is used to mean.----------1,We do not have the tools.----2, we do not have a good mechanic.----3 we are not able to make easy money on this repair.----4 We can make money if you buy a new motor.-----A polite way of saying --" please go somewhere else " in my opinion. !!
Yep, a mechanic that tells you that really doesn't want to work on your engine, or they only want to make big money. Joe has great advice too if you want to do some troubleshooting the folks around here can help if you do a little of the work.

A model# and specifics will help quite a bit.

HOT - As Joe asked, how hot? operating temperature, overheated, warm....?????
Compression - What is the exact number? Thumb over a spark plug hole doesn't count
Spark - Will it jump the correct gap? This matters a lot.
Spark Plugs - Do you have the correct plugs in the engine? If this engine has OIS ignition, then the OEM Champion plug is vital.

If you can turn a wrench, the guys on this forum can probably get you there if you follow their advice. There are a handful of parts that are the likely problem and you can get to the root issue and fix it.

If you choose to just let a mechanic handle it then you need to ask other Johnson/Evinrude owners at the marine or boat ramp who they use and get a consensus of the best place to go.

Good luck. Oh, and when you get the issue resolved either by yourself or a mechanic, please report back what fixed the problem. This helps everyone else in the future when they have the similar problems.

KJ
 
Thanks guys. I may try to purchase the two tools you suggested to at least eliminate some things. I do have some basic mechanic skills as I rebuilt the electrical system on farm tractor last week. Working on riding mower this week so will be a week or two before I can get the boat in m garage. As far as the couple of questions you asked, the boat is not overheating as there are no alarms/buzzers and the water pump is putting out good hard stream. By hot I guess I mean once the engine gets warmed up really well. I will get model number, compression info ad gap readings as suggested
 
OK guys I spoke with the mechanic tody that has been working on this motor. I will tell you below what he said and perhaps it may hel you but it is foreign to me. First he stated again that this is a problem with this year 115 and 150hp motors.

He states that some people may refer to this issue as "heat soaked" but he went onto way that this is not accurate. He states that hair line cracks form internal in the pistons bu to be more accurate the cracks form at the intake port between the port and the water jacket. States as the engine heats and cools that the cracks open and close. The warmer the engine gets the more the cracks open up....

hope this may help
 
Check your stator if there is a problem with it and it gets hot it does not produce enough power to start the motor the problem you having is one cause check it out
 
Doug.... Personally I think your mechanic is spaced out to a point whereas his mind has been pierced by a sharp end of the straw up his nose. I strongly suggest you avoid him like the plague. If any technicians, members of this board have ever hear of such problems, I'd like to hear about them.

Before going any further... we would like very much to have the model number that is stamped onto that engine.
 
Joe, thanks for the quick reply. I wil get the model number for you guys. Meanwhile I googled "Johnson otboard heat soaked" and based on all the comments/threads this is exactly how my motor is acting. You guys know anything about "heat soaked" and what may can be done?
 
A faulty stator does the same thing as a faulty ignition coil when it gets hot it does not produce power and when its cold the Resistance readings will be within specs .
 
Haven’t heard of a common ‘heat soak’ problem. I’ve seen people post about water intrusion on early 60* 150’s but I’m not aware of the same issue on 115’s.

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?446062-94-Fast-Strike-150-water-in-1-cylinder

I think your engine may have a water cooler rectifier. If water flow is restricted then it could cause the rectifier to overheat and that may explain your issue. Posting the model number will help to diagnose this further.
 
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