Johnson 35 Endevour ignition issues

Hey everyone,

Just recently I have been given a boat, motor, and trailer combo. The original combo was a Glastron V162 Ventura 1975 model with a Merc 60 on the back, but my mate bought it for that motor to replace his Johnson 35 Endevour. Now I've got the leftovers which I'm happy with because it was free.

Anyway, he had been having trouble with the ignition on the Johnson, now it's my problem. The motor has now blown 3 power packs. The first time spark was lost on all 3 cylinders, the second only on number 1 cylinder, and now the current one has no spark at 1 and 2. I've heard a lot of different stories ranging from shorts in the wiring, which I haven't found any to date, to the stator being RS, wiring shorting out on the flywheel, which it's not doing either, and was even told it could be the oil injection system?????

I'm not that familiar with marine engines, but I'm a mechanic by trade. The motor has brand new plugs NGK R BR7HS 10's,
the leads test up ok, I haven't tested the coils yet but have noticed one is different in size to the other two. Now I'm just wondering if you guys know of anything that could cause this issue, or if it's a common fault with this model of motor.

The sticker with the serial # is pretty hard to read but this is what I think I can make out

Waukegan, Illinois
Model no: BJ35QLEDG
Serial no: G 04119255
96 Power : 26(? Not sure on this one)
Mass : 77 (kg I take it)

I live in Australia so I hope the above numbers make sense. I'm looking at eliminating as many possible causes as I can before I end up spending a fortune on parts. Any help is appreciated.

Cheers
Tim

I would say 26 Kilowatts which is equal to 35 HP-------Could be as simple as cleaning the parts of the optical ignition sensors.----Or finding bad contact in wiring connecters.----I am going to suggest a factory manual.-----Oil injection likely not the problem.-----Oil mixing unit should have been taken off years ago and thrown away as far as you can throw it !!

Thanks racerone. I'll defo give your advise a go. With the oil mixing unit I think it has been disabled as there is something next to where the fuel line plugs in that has a small bolt plugging up a hose. As to manuals are the Seloc ones on this site any good as I'll probably do the online option if they are.
Cheers mate

BJ35QLEDG

B - Manufactured in Belgium
J - Johnson
35 - Horsepower
Q - No idea..... Quacker Killer??
E - 9 Year Code
D - 6 Year Code - Combined = 96 (1996)
G - Factory run number, of no consequence.

A constant repeat of powerpack failure?... Read on.......................
********************
Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailing out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
********************

Is there a big RED plug on this motor ?

Thanks for the info joereeves. Not sure bout the quacker killer thought lol. Atlease im getting some quality ideas that dont relate to oil mixing units. Cheers mate

Ill check out the red plug thing. I cant remember seeing one but ill have another look. Cheers guys

Not sure about that hose that is plugged.---Where does that plugged hose go on the motor ?-----As far as I know the oil mixer was fitted below the oil tank.----All oil mixing components were found under the cowling.

The unit with the plugged hose on it is located on the carby side at the base of the motor, right near where the fuel line comes through into the engine bay. On the inside. There is no sign of an oil tank which made me think the plugged line may have led to that. I really need a manual hey.

Lowpass1978 said:

The unit with the plugged hose on it is located on the carby side at the base of the motor, right near where the fuel line comes through into the engine bay. On the inside. There is no sign of an oil tank which made me think the plugged line may have led to that. I really need a manual hey.

Click to expand...

The VRO is a rather large black plastic unit, normally attached to the powerhead on the port side of the carburetor... one fitting on top of it that leads to the carburetor(s)... three on the bottom, one leading to the powerhead crankcase to operate it... one for the fuel... and one for the oil.

The oil tank is normally installed in one of two locations.... under the motor well at the transom, or under the boats console if do equipped. If memory serves me properly, that's a 2 gallon tank. If memory doesn't serve me properly, then it's something else!

If that large black unit is still under the hood, you can't find the oil tank, and there's a plugged line right alongside the fuel line where it enters the hood pan..... That indicates that the VRO pump has been converted to a straight fuel only pump and access to the oil side has been eliminated (plugged) so that... 1 - The pump can not draw air... and... 2 - It is necessary to pre-mix the fuel & oil via a 50/1 mixture.

Okay, the above is just info, has nothing to do with the ongoing powerpack failures... just wanted to clear your mind so we can get back to the problem at hand.

To have powerpacks fail, one after another as you imply, it is normally due to voltage being supplied to the kill circuit (black/yellow wire) of the powerpack. If you haven't performed the test as I suggested in my Post reply #4 and checked the wiring for improper wiring routing, please do so and get back to us with what you found.

Post a picture of this motor.-----These 3 cylinder 35 HP motors did not use a VRO style pump.----Did not use a remote oil tank.

Is the unit with the plugged hose the ELECTRIC PRIMER VALVE on this motor ?-------Best wait till you read the factory manual on this wonderful motor.------Things with the ignition system do get expensive in a hurry with the trial and error method.-----Q= 3 cylinder trim and tilt.

racerone said:

Post a picture of this motor.-----These 3 cylinder 35 HP motors did not use a VRO style pump.----Did not use a remote oil tank.

Click to expand...

Oh Damn!..... Three cylinder... wasn't even thinking about that being a 1996 3cyl model... yeah, I'd like a picture or two also.

My take is it's the revenge of the Quackers.
You just got the wrong model: They hate Quacker killers.
(My apology...guess I just had a morning "coffee high", and Joe's humor just got some of this coffee spilled all over the desk) now I'll stop interfering with "true competence" since with Joe and Racer you're in the best hands you could possibly fall into with regards to vintage outboards, and go back to my room.

Ive been trying to upload pics of the object in question. Im doing it off my phone as i dont have a pc and it just isnt working. Looking at it i think you would be right in saying its electric priming valve. Its connected to the fuel feed TO the motor and another line goes to the fuel rail feeding the carbs. It has a red valve that can be turned 180°. Two wires, one earth one connected to a purple/white wire. Im in the process of getting a Seloc manual as im probably driving you guys nuts

Nothing like a coffe high, but of an evening i look at everyone just like that little fella ��

The object in question is the electric primer valve.------The red lever is for manual operation.-----From the factory it came with one hose to feed fuel to the primer and one wee hose to feed fuel to the intake manifold.------If it has 2 wee hoses with one plugged it is a replacement primer !