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15hp Evinrude Starts & Dies?

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Apexmaster34

Member
I have a 89 15hp w electric start out hard.
i have rebuild carb with a kit all new comp. New plugs , wire,
New fuel filter.
Engine starts ,runs for about 5sec then dies.
I have checked everything over and over . When I hot starter I see fuel flowing to carb while cranking, so there is fuel
Also test for spark with spark tester and I have really strong spark
What could it??
Thank you
 
You mis-understand !-----Open the mixture needle 1/4 turn at a time and test.------It should be out much more that 1/4 turn from lightly seated !
 
It sounds like Racer states. You've hopefully rebuilt the starter properly BUT do not have it adjusted properly. Do the following.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
Typo on Joe, of course he means "carburetor" and not "starter". Are you feathering the choke? These are limited to such a low idle, when in neutral, it can be very frustrating. I have modified my 15's up at camp in order to allow more throttle advance for starting. Not saying that's what you should do, but just saying that the factory setting can make them harder to start, especially if that low speed needle is not set perfectly. If it's too far out the idle will be rich and lower rpm, if its set too lean, it will speed up the idle but make it extremely lean when cold and causing problems to get enough fuel especially when the motor is first started and off choked. If things are right, your needle should be finalized at about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns open, depending on altitude......are you in Nepal?
 
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Thanks
Ya I have tried all setting from lightly seated to 4 turns out with about half turn in between.
Keep getting exact same result. I have pretty much rebuild whole engine. Ohms tested every wire, bypass kill neutral switch because it was missing top part when I got motor. I cannot find a new one anywhere.
Rebuild the fuel filter box
I'm in Seattle WA current temp during daytime low 60s
 
Been several times in Seattle, love it.....rain and all.
Will it run longer with the choke on? Your carb has that goofy little tube inside the float bowl too? Was it dirty from oxidation? Was that little tube deformed, soft, or dissolved? Ethanol?
 
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Good, okay. Will it stay running with the choke on brother? Was there any deposits in the carb before you cleaned? What did they look like....oxidation? Did you "physically" clean passages with a wire or something similar? They may blow through but are not proper size. I see this quite often, causing lean or even "no run" condition.
 
Minor oxidization. Yes cleaned all passages with wire and shop air.
It will not stay running w choke on
I have never had this much issue getting a 2 stroke running.
I have build many 4 stroke 4cylinder bike engines. And 09 Yamaha 250 2 stroke
 
timguy said:
Typo on Joe, of course he means "carburetor" and not "starter".

Oh, C'mon Tim... Are you trying to tell me that fuel doesn't go thru the starter first? :cool:.... God, can't believe I didn't catch that as soon as I typed it! Should have read.......
**********
It sounds like Racer states. You've hopefully rebuilt the "Carburetor" properly BUT do not have it adjusted properly. Do the following.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway
**********
Click to expand...
 
Joereeves,
The engine will not stay running long enough for me to tune it. It's almost 5sec .
Like it starts but starts hard then I'll have full throttle. It will rev for few seconds and bog down
 
Crankshaft seal leak? Is or was there any oil around the base of the stator plate? No answer yet on my ethanol question. Was that little tube dissolved or messed up?......check my earlier questions please like back in post #8. Thanks, Tim
 
Apexmaster34 said:
Joereeves,
The engine will not stay running long enough for me to tune it. It's almost 5sec .
Like it starts but starts hard then I'll have full throttle. It will rev for few seconds and bog down
Click to expand...

If the above action takes place with the slow speed needle valve backed out from its seat 1 1/2 turn.... I'd suggest you remove and dismantle the carburetor once again for inspection. It sounds like you've overlooked something in that area..... High speed jet clogged or partially clogged, float set improperly, float upside down (it happens)... something.
 
Remove spark plugs.... If you don't have one on hand, buy a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" air gap for the spark to jump... the spark should be a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP! Is it?

If the spark is as it should be... you do not have an electrical problem... you have a fuel problem as we state.
 
yes I have good spark, Blue spark. Ok so what else can it be Fuel related? today I will try again set needle as instructed, make a video and post how engine starts and dies.
racerone I dont understand your comment?
 
Racer is frustrated, he sees no progress here and things aren't adding up. You haven't answered our questions at times properly. I know you too are frustrated. We are here to help. Joe and I will continue to help. You stated that it will not stay running with choke on, but does it stay running longer? Another question: When you go to restart it after it dies, what is your best procedure? That will help us decide if its starving, flooding, or loosing spark. If it is always the 5 seconds run, I find it very curious that it is not running out of fuel. Can you keep it going by dripping fuel mixture into the carb? Then we know that spark is okay, brah! Say it's just using only the fuel in the float bowl, it will still run much longer than 5 seconds. The only way I have ever gotten a motor to run only 5 seconds is with a prime. Has this motor been modified to use the primer type choke that you pull out and fuel squirts into back of carb, or behind carb at intake?
 
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Sorry I work 4 10s Thursday to Sunday . I will be spending time today on it. For me it has been a 4 month process rebuilding the lower completely and now top.
The motor was given to me from a buddy. It came with a hydrolic trim. Hydraulic steer and cables for throttle.
I had to also rebuild part of wiring for hydraulic steering system.
So when I go start I try everything. Initially with choke and try to keep choke on but it will die.
Then when I go to restart , I'll just put throttle on the mark on the black plate so I guess about 10% gas. And crank. It will start but it's hard .I have crank for about 5 sec.
I will make a video this morning and post.
I had the flywheel off to inspect electrical stuff under there so I'll put back together in little bit and show you how it start s
Thank you for your help
I don't get it also
 
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Yes, okay. You have the conventional butterfly type choke? This is a remote motor so it has a choke solenoid?
 
Apexmaster34 said:
yes I have good spark, Blue spark. Ok so what else can it be Fuel related? today I will try again set needle as instructed, make a video and post how engine starts and dies.
racerone I don't understand your comment?
Click to expand...

Is the spark jumping a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!? Yes or No... If yes, the ignition is okay.

Your explanation of the problem comes across as either fuel is not gaining access to the carburetor... OR... if gaining access, is not flowing properly thru the carburetor fuel passageways. Your explanation of how the engine is acting comes across that fuel is entering the carburetor slowly... just enough to run for a few seconds, then runs out of fuel... and had to wait for the fuel once again to flow in slowly to flow in to run for another few seconds.

Racerone's comments, suggestions through years of hands on experience were along these lines. Your reply, in essence was an argumentative one suggesting that you believe he is wrong and that the problem is electrical... I assume you meant the ignition system. His decision, I once more assume, since you feel the problem lies elsewhere, is that he feels he can no longer be a help to you and is leaving the conversation... and wished you good luck in solving the "electrical" problem.

I also am going to temporarily step aside as I think Tim has a good hold on the situation. Hopefully the cause will be found and corrected shortly.
 
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Honestly at moment I don't know where issue is. I do know I have complete ly rebuild carb to my best ability, cleaned it, rebuild the fuel filter, set gap on plugs, and have 1.5 turns out on screw.
I think fuel flow is good . When I keep pumping Unger on fuel line eventually I get fuel spilling from front of carb or choke butterfly
 
If you get it going again, just try my suggestion and drip in some gas mix with air silencer off.....see if it will stay running. That will show us if its fuel shortage, or an intermittent spark failure. Joe bailed on us, Racer too. Nobody else feels they can help Mr. Scott is sharp too, but maybe no ideas for us that we haven't yet covered.
 
Apexmaster34 said:
Honestly at moment I don't know where issue is. I do know I have complete ly rebuild carb to my best ability, cleaned it, rebuild the fuel filter, set gap on plugs, and have 1.5 turns out on screw.
I think fuel flow is good . When I keep pumping Unger on fuel line eventually I get fuel spilling from front of carb or choke butterfly
Click to expand...

That (colored in red) indicates that the carburetor is flooding for some reason. When the float and needle valve setup is as it should be, it would be impossible to force fuel out of the carburetor like that.
 
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