Running rough, stall on throttle back to neutral, won’t go over 3000 Rpm.

Ran boat to test again. Starts and runs a little rough. Stalled a couple times when throttle back from 1500 to idle. Started right back up. When I got out of the 5mph zone I throttled up and the motor would not go over 3000rpm. Well it actually slowly went to about 3400 but I was messing with the trim. I could floor it, nothing would change. Seems like it’s missing.
Looking for advice on where to start.
I’m Everyone’s help is, and has been greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Surfnfisher

Start with the basics. When running, open up the fuel tank cap to make sure that the breather vent is not blocked. Check primer bulb to make sure it's not collapsing. Rapidly pump primer bulb to see if that improves running.

When is the last time you changed the HP fuel filter? If more than a year, that's where I would start. Also, test fuel pressure. You need a 6 mm adapter and test it at the pressure relief bolt that is on the cover to the HP fuel filter. It should be between 41 and 49 PSI. If not, first thing to do is test/clean the fuel pressure regulator.

Make sure vacuum lines are all properly connected, especially that one to the diaphragm that sits just in front of the HP fuel filter.

Motor is new to me, so it’s one step at a time.
Since it seems like it’s missing is there a way to test coils?
Ill pull the plugs and do a compression test while I’m changing those.

Do that, but check the HP fuel filter as suggested above.

Thanks,
I will let you guys know.

This sounds like a misfire issue. While it's idling, unplug the igniters one at a time and if they affect the running they are okay, if not there is a problem. When you remove the plugs you will also see which one or more are not firing as they will look different to the ones working. Then do a. compression test too. If a coil or igniter is faulty it is usually because they get hairline cracks which should be visible, they can also be tested by removing and simply connecting a sparkplug to them as you would with a conventional plug lead.

Thanks, when I am testing spark do just take off the start lanyard at the key switch?
thanks

No ,that kills the spark. It is not common to have no spark on an individual cylinder, there is usually another cause for misfire such as water in the cylinder, bad spark plug, cracked and shorting igniter , low compression, fuel etc. As mentioned before, start by isolating the offending cylinder/cylinders by unplugging each coil with the engine idling and then plug removal/ inspection and compression test.

Update:
ran boat at idle, pulled coil wires individually. Top port and middle starboard did not change the way motor runs while unplugged. Switched coils no change , switched plugs no change. Can’t find my compression tester.
Is there a way to check the coil wire/plug to make sure it is sending signal?
Thanks

Put a spark plug into the coil, plug it into the associated lead, allow the spark plug to rest against the engine ( earth) Start the engine and observe the spark plug to see if it is sparking.What did the misfiring cylinder spark plugs look like, were they black and wet or were they dry?

The non firing plugs looked good grey clean and dry, the other plugs are light brown.
can I check voltage at the coil plug wire while it is unplugged and running?

I will check for you, I have only ever done a spark check because it's quick and easy.

There is no recommended voltage test like 2 stroke motors. You can do continuity tests between the coil plugs and the ecm but as I stated previously, just check spark first

You can check for spark using a spark tester it will show you which plug is not firing it should be set to at least a 7/16 gap plug all the leads into it and if you do not see one jumping the 7/16 gap that one is causing problems . i most recently had a motor where the spark tester showed that it was jumping the 7/16 gap on all the plugs i was satisfied with the results but it still had a miss at idle then later on found out the firing order was out between no 1 & 2 changed the HT leads around and it idled perfect

Bf225' s don't have leads, it has 3 pin plugs to each igniter/ coil, just saying

Yep - there are no high tension leads on this engine. There are testers for these over-the-plug coils out there. Check with your local auto parts place or do a search on the Internet. Theses will allow you to test the coils while the engine is running.

When running, the 225 ECU momentarily interrupts the negative lead to the coil, which causes an electromagnetic break down in the primary coil, inducing a large voltage in the secondary coil, causing a spark across the electrodes on the spark plug.

The field-expedient test is to disconnect and remove all six coils and plugs. Then, one at a time, hook up a coil and plug combo, ground the base of the plug, crank the engine briefly and see if you get a spark across the plug's electrodes. If so, the combo is good. If not try a known good spark plug. If still no spark, either the coil is bad or the wiring is bad. Try a known good coil. Test again. If still no spark, you have a problem with the wiring - check that 3-pronged plug. If you do get spark this time, replace the original coil.

BE CAREFUL - that's about 15000 volts or more that you're playing with. I use welder's gloves and channel lock pliers with heavily insulated handles to hold the plug base against the block.

Alternatively, take the coils to a well-equipped auto shop and have them test. If they have the right equipment, they will also be able to tell you if the coil voltage is out of spec.

Guys, you are over complicating things. This engine has two cylinders misfiring, to rule out coils, simply swop to good cylinders and see if the problem follows. Carry out a compression test to check mechanical health, if that checks out then the only thing left is fuel. Check fuel pressure followed by injectors. I would still check spark the way I originally said to be sure the offending coils are actually getting a signal from the ECU. These are all simple tasks you can carry out DIY without spending dollars on unnecessary high tech testing.

Okay, checked spark. Those two cylinders have spark. Not sure if it is enough spark. But there is spark.
So is there a way to know if it is enough spark?
Next is compression test. There was a lot of air shooting out of the cylinders while i was testing spark.
hope for the best.

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