boat integrity

Hello everyone I am going to look at a couple boats today that are 4-sale. How can I know if the frame is sound. Thank You. Frank

You're wanting to know how to check out the hull, right? If so, it sometimes helps to know how the boat was constructed. If it's a fiberglass boat with a wood core, you'll want to check for rot, especially in the transom. The transom (and the deck) are the most common places that wood will rot. You'll want to feel around for soft spots, as soft spots usually mean a rotten core. You can also bang around with a rubber- or wood- mallet. If the sound is a sharp rap, it's good. If it sounds "hollow", you may have a soft/rotting core. Also, look at the nut & washer that hold the outboard or outdrive to the transom. If they look like they are indenting the transom, they are almost surely smashing a rotted transom. Also, if they are "weeping" and leaving a dark drip line - that is a sure sign the transom is wet and will be rotten if it isn't already. Pay special attention to the stringers. If they are rotten, the boat will not be sufficiently rigid, especially in rough waters, when you really need it to be rigid!

Also, look for substantial cracking. Spiderweb cracking of the gelcoat isn't a problem, and is almost always present in an older boat, but if they are deep (and especially if they are wide) cracks - they may be structural. If in doubt, walk away.

Obviously, keep an eye out for anything that's crumpled-looking. If it's been wrecked, don't get it.

If you're going to drop a substantial amount of cash on the purchase, you may well want to consider a professional survey. Unless you're looking at a major league vessel, you can get away for $500 or less on a survey. The survey will also help when/if you decide to insure the boat, so it's a "two birds with one stone" proposition.

That's extremely good advice from TipDS.

I'll briefly address some top lines for the power plant.

If an outboard, determine whether a two-stroke or four-stroke. Two-strokes are on their way out of the picture (except for the Evinrude E-TEC direct injection engines) and parts are becoming harder and harder to find. Besides, they are not fuel efficient compared to the four-strokes. Do an on-water test of the engine, operating it at all ranges. Look for any misses or stalls. Acceleration should be smooth and consistent. Make sure the engine is easy to trim. If an older boat with a newer four-stroke, note how the boat sits in the water. The four-strokes are universally heavier than the two-strokes and often the boat will sit in the water stern low. If more than an inch or two, walk away.

If it's in-board or inboard/outboard, get down in the engine compartment and smell for any oders of fuel or oil. If possible, feel down under the oil pan for oil leaks. The oil pans tend to rust out and, of course the engine must be pulled to replace it. Closely inspect the risers and manifolds for excessive rust and exhaust leaks. Inspect for water leaks. If it's an I/O carefully inspect the bellows for leaks and rot, or jerry-rigged connections.

In either case, have a competent marine mechanic go over the engine and do a compression test and leak-down test. Have them closely inspect the plugs for a good, even burn on all cylinders.

Be very cautious of an older engine with low hours. That tells you that the engine likely sat around for long periods of time, and that is a strong indication you are likely to have future problems. As a general observation, marine engines perform best when run often.