Warped new head gasket?

I bought this head gasket on Ebay and it arrived yesterday. The gasket does not lay flat, it is curved up, it does not naturally lay flat. Is this Ok to install or should I return it? I've installed about 10 multi-cylinder head gaskets in the last 5 years, and they were always OEM or Sierra, and not one of them looked like this. The brand of this one is EMP Engineered Marine Products. You can see the curve by the shadows the rings cast. It is curved from one side to the other, only the bolt hole edges touch the table.

Without closer examination, I would consider it okay based on the photo. Is it made in USA? If your not in a great rush, call them on Monday. Another thought, send a message to the seller.
Do you install head bolts with anti-sieze? When using dissimilar metals, especially when exposed to potentially corrosive conditions, I always recommend it. Why? The original bolts are often zinc coated......or another glaze......and once they are removed, the coating is disturbed, therefore more likely to "freeze" in place once cleaned and reinstalled. We rebuild giant marine diesels. Anti seize is used almost everywhere. For high heat applications, like head bolts, another type is recommended. I like the copper color. Torque tables are followed to the "T". We have checked torque while using dry, or anti-seize. The final position is skewed and incorrect torque is applied in dry installs. We do up an 8000 hp Pielstik once every four years......1.4 million dollars each. They were introduced here on the Great Lakes in the early 70's on 1000 ft. Ore carriers. Original life expectancy was 30 years max. They are all still running. A new engine with labor to install is 15 million bucks.......there are 2 engines on each ship. Do you anti seize your lug nuts? I do, and have for 40 years. Torque to 100 lbs., and never had a single problem. Dump trucks and heavy equipment as well, but a higher torque per application.

It is made in USA. The supplier is closed till Monday and I'll be talking with him then.

Nothing wrong with it.-----Install it and go boating.

OK raceone, thanks.

Damn good gasket EMP

The previous new gasket was original Evinrude BRP. It only leaked a little out the side of one head bolt hole area. I over torqued it and it made no difference. So, I bought the EMP and installed it, this time I added Permatex Aviation sealer to the engine edge, and on the head gasket on the inside that faces the engine edge, let it dry 1/2 hr and installed the head gasket. I put aviation sealer on the bolts and torqued to 16 lbs (per recommendation above). It leaked everywhere. I waited for it to cool and torqued it to 20lbs. It didn't leak at first but then started to leak worse and worse. It didn't ever leak this bad with the BRP gasket.

I'm waiting for it to cool again, and take it apart and clean all the sealer off and install the gasket without sealer, except the ding area where it leaked before. Then I'll try it again.

Question: Can I install both gaskets, the EMP first and the BRP second?

Every aluminum cylinder head I have ever checked out has been warped to some degree.-----Yes they are all warped !-------I get them flat with grinding compound and a piece of glass.------Did you resurface the head ?----Using the original bolts ?

I never checked for head warpage, but the first gasket only leaked in one spot exactly where it had a ding. I'm using new grade 8 bolts.

Are the bolts the exact same length ?-------Threaded portion the exact same length ?-----Resurface / flatten the cylinder head !!

The OEM bolts were 1 7/8". I installed 2" bolts in all the holes where they had plenty of room. On 4 of the bolts I cut them to 1 7/8" and re-tapped them at the ends. The only bolt that leaked the first time with the BRP head gasket was not a short bolt.

I resurfaced the head on a 5/8" thick piece of glass with 220 wet or dry and WD40, it was not warped. All it did was remove the paint in the areas on top of the pistons as marked below in all three cylinders. It did clean up the edge all around the cylinder head evenly, the edges are all shiny now (that's not my head in the picture). The parts where the water flows were not affected much if any by the sanding, but those parts are not where the gasket seals anyways. :

I'll test it out tomorrow. If it still leaks I'll sand it on the glass a bit more and coat the aluminum sealing surfaces with Aviation sealer and try again using the EMP gasket.

If that does not work, can I use the two gaskets EMP and BRP one on top of the other?

I have never had a problem with leakage on those gaskets !-------I believe you are making some basics mistakes.------Not sure why you would even want to resort to using 2 gaskets !

The BRP gasket only had a small leak in one spot and I used no Aviation sealer at all. In this third attempt I installed the EMP gasket exactly like the BRP gasket that had the small leak, except I sealed the ding. Moreover, I sanded the head flatter. It should be apples vs apples, so well see.

Victory! No leaks. Job done. Thanks racerone and others.

Excellent job! Those EMP gaskets are good. You might want to check head torque after a little more use, just in case. Do this, of course with the motor at ambient temperature. I assume you used a little anti seize. I am always careful not to use too much because I don't want it to "drool" into the sealing surfaces. I do the same with automotive and heavy equipment applications, but small engines and outboards are more delicate.