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89 15 hp Evinrude Idle issue

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Apexmaster34

Member
hello, I have a 89 15 hp, with very low run time only about 20 hours. but it has sat for over 20 years, last week i finished doing a complete tare down, on carb, reed valve, spark plugs, new head gasket, etc. it has electric start. engine starts as it should but will not idle by it self. i have set the low idle mixture screw to 1.5 turn out from all the way in.
[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]I am having a hard time lining up the mark on the advance plate with the round thingy on the top of the throttle arm. one video says they need to line up with about 10% throttle., however mine are so far apart no matter what I do with the idle screw adjuster. i will post pictures soon. any help please
thank you[/FONT]
 
Sounds like you were doing it, but the throttle cable may need adjusted if you are not getting enough travel?Nothing loose is there?Where are the picts?
 
Something must be assembled wrong to be that far off, brother. Try to look at another 15 and correct it.
 
Thank you for all feedback. I did have pulley out and timing plate. However I put markings on plate so I can install back the way it was. I am a diesel mechanic for over 10 years so I am somewhat mechanically inclined. But It could have been messed with prior me getting it.
See images of throttle lobe and timing mark.
Image one is 10% gas, carb plate has just moved
Image 2 is no throttle at all
Image 3 is full throttle
Oh ya I have no handle on. This engine I have cable to controls, also hydraulic steering and hydraulic trim
 
here are images,
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/x5WjfXKg8JHcw7A96
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5gVb1cSVf8A7Fhmj8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QyRUL8qFK94YG14aA
 
Huh? The first image is low speed, the second image is barely idle, the 3rd image is stop. It won't run there in that position. The stator rotates counter clockwise as engine speed increases. Somethings backwards, brother. Roller is okay I think.....
 
timguy said:
Huh? The first image is low speed, the second image is barely idle, the 3rd image is stop. It won't run there in that position. The stator rotates counter clockwise as engine speed increases. Somethings backwards, brother. Roller is okay I think.....
Click to expand...

So I have 3 images. One w 10% gas, 1 w no gas and 1 w max throttle in Neutral. I'm pretty sure nothing is backwards. Engine starts as it should review up and hold smooth revs, just hard to idle by it self
 
Okay, the photos are not in order of continuous throttle advancement. They are from top to bottom, as I described. There is no advancing the carb butterfly to mid or max (WOT). Its like you are limited, say in reverse gear position so you can only apply enough throttle to back up slowly. The stator is hitting the limiting stopper so you can't rev it up. Just as Mr. Scott is thinking. You may be in forward gear, but the limiter is out of whack/adjustment. Maybe?
Im a heavy diesel mechanic too, and yes, sometimes I'd rather be working on an 8000 hp Pielstik. The injector pumps weigh almost 200 lbs. You can easily crawl through a cylinder. You can rev them up all you want and in any gear, at least up to 660 rpm., but let me tell you about torque. WOW! 2 of these babies can push 100,000 tons of ship and ore at 15 knots. Each cylinder produces 500 hp.
 
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timguy said:
Okay, the photos are not in order of continuous throttle advancement. They are from top to bottom, as I described. There is no advancing the carb butterfly to mid or max (WOT). Its like you are limited, say in reverse gear position so you can only apply enough throttle to back up slowly. The stator is hitting the limiting stopper so you can't rev it up. Just as Mr. Scott is thinking. You may be in forward gear, but the limiter is out of whack/adjustment. Maybe?
Im a heavy diesel mechanic too, and yes, sometimes I'd rather be working on an 8000 hp Pielstik. The injector pumps weigh almost 200 lbs. You can easily crawl through a cylinder. You can rev them up all you want and in any gear, at least up to 660 rpm., but let me tell you about torque. WOW! 2 of these babies can push 100,000 tons of ship and ore at 15 knots. Each cylinder produces 500 hp.
Click to expand...

Sweet. Ya I'm trying to get a job w our ferries and work on same engines. Currently I'm working for Greyhound working on diesel motirs sycj as Cummins isx15 isl. Detroit 60.
 
Yeah, I joke with people, fix 'em all from a 1.5 hp Mighty Mite to an 8000 hp Pielstik. And I'm no good at anything in between.
Sometimes the safety features get in your way. That's what's happening, maybe, with your 15. I have modified many of my outboards to allow a bit more throttle for starting in neutral. It makes no sense to have to pull it 4 or 5 times for a cold start, instead of once or twice. Also, when I am guiding (as in fishing guide), my motor has been modified to start in gear. It makes my job so much more effective. Nobody else runs my motors anyway.
 
There should be a clear sleeve over the roller. Did you measure the middle or the end. You CANNOT do a proper link and sync with with the roller you have.
 
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its sync and fixed now. thank you all
however i just noticed another issue, the engine is not circulating water. i have a water pump OEM kit installed, with the pin in correct spot, I have removed my thermostat and test in hot water, cleared all coolant passages with shop air, and i am still not getting any flow through the motor. I get a little drip, drip but not flowing as it should. at this point I am completely out of ideas. I have taken off Lower and inspected every single component 5 times nows, watched how to videos, and read,.everything matches but I have no flow.
 
Any resolve with water flow issue? Did it pump water before you dismantled it? Was the impeller broken apart?
 
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Apexmaster34 said:
its sync and fixed now. thank you all
however i just noticed another issue, the engine is not circulating water.
Click to expand...
See my post (#4) in your other thread. http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?449157-15-HP-Evinrude-No-Water-Flow

Two possibilities are either junk plugging up the water passages in the exhaust bypass cover or you have a deformed grommet at the base of the engine block where the water tube enters. To reach the water tube grommet the powerhead has to come off. You might be able to get to the exhaust cover with the block in place but the bottom bolts are a total pain and it's easier with the powerhead removed.
 
i purchased a used lower unit and also purchased a new gears etc etc, everything that is housed in the lower is brand new. i have ran water and shop air through all passages and cleaned the screen on the side of the lower unit. i was told on another forum that this pump is not a self prime pump, however they did not specify how to prime the pump?
the reason why i replaced the lower, is the engine has sat attached to a boat sitting in salt water it whole life. it was really bad inside the old unit, the gears, seals had infused and become one.
 
I believe the grommet sets in the block, not the lower unit. If that’s the case swapping the LU and midsection would not have changed the grommet. Blowing air through means there is an opening but maybe not big enough for adequate water volume.

Self priming just means the water level has to be above the pump. Your 5 gallon bucket may not provide enough water. The level should be at least 3” above the line where the LU and midsection meet.
 
sorry i thought you meant the grommet which sits on top of the water pump, and where the long copper pipe slide into when i put together the lower with top section.
i believe it is enough because i used same setup w same bucket on my 9.9hp i have the whole mid section submurged in water i am pretty sure it is enough water. today i will remove lower, and simply put a hose to copper pipe and see if i get flow out of block
 
Apexmaster34 said:
sorry i thought you meant the grommet which sits on top of the water pump, and where the long copper pipe slide into when i put together the lower with top section.
i believe it is enough because i used same setup w same bucket on my 9.9hp i have the whole mid section submurged in water i am pretty sure it is enough water. today i will remove lower, and simply put a hose to copper pipe and see if i get flow out of block
Click to expand...
Yep, I was talking about a different grommet.

The water pump grommet is #37 in the gear case diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...5ELCEC&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase

The grommet I'm talking about is between the block and midsection. #55 in the midsection diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...de&section=Midsection+(all+Models+Except+Sel)

On my '79 9.9 the upper grommet had a flap folded over internally that was blocking water flow. I could blow air through it but even at idle there was just a trickle of water coming out the telltale. When I was on the throttle there was nothing coming out of the telltale and the engine would overheat. After I replaced the upper grommet I've had good water flow out the telltale and never overheated again.

It sounds like your water level is fine in your test barrel so the problem is something else.
 
i did not get to taking off lower yesterday. worked 12 hours. hopefully today, and i will check this grommet.also run water via the copper line and see if flow through motor.
 
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