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Power failure 40 HP

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Phil-Seventy

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I bought a little boat last year with an Evinrude outboard E40RCOB of 1985.


At the begining, no trouble, the engine was just fine.
After few weeks, no spark, I asked to a pro to take a look at my engine and the power pack has been replaced by a new one, but it crashed again because all wires from the stator plate were too old and in too bad condition.
So I had to change the coil and sensor too, with a new power pack.
Everything seemed to be right with this new ingnition system, the engine starts again without trouble.


But : on the water, loaded, after few minutes, my engine lost his power. 5 knots max.
So I decided to clean the carburators by myself, and bought two carburator repair kits to fix it.
After that, it was better, but for only 30 minutes of navigation, and I lost the power again, impossible to take rpms.
No trouble in neutral position, or when I clean it in my garden, but it's not the same story on the water.


After all this time, I'm lost because I put a lot of money to change all ignition parts (coils, power pack, spark plugs, wires)
I also changed the entire gas circuit (carb and pump repair kits, hoses, fuel connectors, fuel tank).
Same issue...


It seems something happens when the engine is hot, I don't know.
Many thanks for your help.
 
first, just for general trouble shooting, need to do compression check( please post numbers) and a open air spark test, jumps about 1/2 inch.
yes old electrical parts act up after heating up, but you've changed most every thing, you changed a "coil and sensor", were they under the flywheel? when my charge coil went bad, motor would run but idle ruff and no more then 1800 rpm. CDI has a good electrical trouble shooting guide
 
Hi scalhoun506 and thank you for your reply.

I forgot to mention this but I already checked the compressions and it was good : 9 and 8.5 bars
I also have good sparks too. No pb to start this engine, even if it runs several minutes, may be the timing is not so good but I'll see that after.
And Yes, I changed the charge coil and sensor under the flywheel, this coil is new, I don't know, it came from an old stock.
I will do another electric check on the charge coil with my ohmmeter to be sure, it's a good idea.

Another pro told me it could be a pb with the flywheel, but this piece seems to be very solid.
What do you think ?
 
Last year, yes, but I didn't use this boat a lot, may be 4 hours max.
I always clean the motor after I use it, with clear water and an additive against salt.
The water pump works well as far as I know.
But thank you for asking.
 
I'll check that too, thank you.

one more thing :
When the engine loses his power, sometime, not all the time, the engine relives again with all its power, but after few minutes, fails again.
It's very disturbing.
 
Phil-Seventy said:
I'll check that too, thank you.

one more thing :
When the engine loses his power, sometime, not all the time, the engine relives again with all its power, but after few minutes, fails again.
It's very disturbing.
Click to expand...


After this happens, do as high of a "high speed shutdown" as possible and check for beads of water on the spark plugs...you might also see signs of oil/water mix at the fuel pump hose connection on the bottom of the engine block....this sounds a lot like a bad head or exhaust gasket...
 
Hi, this engine has good compression, I don't know.
I already checked sign of oil/water mix and found nothing, I'll check it again, the spark plugs too, thank you.
I'm going to focus on a possible ignition problem, the charge coil as scalhoun506 advised me, but first I must fix my inflatable boat, I got a PVC issue on the last week-end. No luck.
 
Phil-Seventy said:
Hi, this engine has good compression, I don't know.
I already checked sign of oil/water mix and found nothing, I'll check it again, the spark plugs too, thank you.
I'm going to focus on a possible ignition problem, the charge coil as scalhoun506 advised me, but first I must fix my inflatable boat, I got a PVC issue on the last week-end. No luck.
Click to expand...

This past year, I had a 50 hp. that I replaced the entire ignition system...it fixed the problem for a few trips, but then started acting up again...same symptoms both times, but the last time it happened, it was because of an exhaust gasket...good luck...
 
I checked statically the charge coil at the amphenol pins : 558 ohms (yellow-brown, brown wires before the power pack)
sensor : 49 ohms
and the two high voltage coil : 318 and 1 ohms on both
Regarding CDI Electronics trouble shooting guide, resistance is OK.

This engine is a rope model so I put an electric screwdriver on the top of the crankshaft to simulate an electric start, trying to check dynamicly the charge coil :
It was not stable, I had between 32 and 38V AC, it's a poor value.

I also checked the sparks, around 1 cm long on my tester but the sparks are not so well synchronized, not very good tempo, I'm not sure if it must be synchronised all the time, maybe because my screwdriver is not powerfull enough.
I read on the CDI guide a cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.
 
maybe a electric drill motor would spin better , and spark plugs out, i don't think a regulator volt meter reads voltage correctly in this case, you need a "DVA adapter", $40 - 100 online
 
No better result with a drill, I already tried it.
Yes, sparks plugs were out, of course, and spark tester to the ground.
I thought DVA adapter was only used to check power pack.
I'll try again with another tool, I have another electric screwdriver running at 1500 rpms, and come back to you with new results.
 
dva adapters allow your digital voltmeter to read peak voltages, so i'm told by the internet. that screwdriver must have a lot of torque. any chance you checked flywheel key, AND with flywheel off any dark goo discharge from coil or sensor?
 
It seems to jump the gap just fine but is intermittent.

One more thing, are you spraying any kind of fogging oil into the engine/cylinders when you spin it like this? Just remember the fuel/oil mix is your only lubricant so you could be running things dry spinning it like this.
 
Hi Kevinj,
Yes, I noticed that. This is why I made this video.
No, I didn't spray any oil but thanks for the tip.

The tempo is not good, so if I find how to fix it, I'll have my solution.

Now, I must wait the delivery of the DVA and the puller I ordered.
 
Sorry for the delay, I just receive the last item this morning.
Now, I have a DVA and a puller and I'll check with my new tools this week-end.
Do you know the best value I must found for the charge coil and sensor with this DVA adapter ?
 
charge coil - ohms 575+/-25, Min. output voltage while cranking 230, while running 250
sensor coil 40+/-10, Min. output voltage while cranking 1.5 , while running 6
power pack Min. output voltage while cranking 200, while running 230
while running maybe difficult without certain jumpers
consider getting a factory service manual
CDI is good also
 
Hello, I checked the ignition following your last message.


Sensor coil : I find 49 ohms - good
Charge coil : I have 567 ohms - good but...
if I let my ohmmeter plugged in for more than a minute, the values ​​start to vary from 562 to 575 ohms - not so good
In addition, whether I connect the 'man overboard' contact or not, I get the same resistance values.
I thought this contact disconnected to the ground, everything had to be at 0.
right or not ?


With a DVA charge coil : in DC, I have -20V
in AC position, I have 15V max - not so good, I think
for the sensor : I find 1V


At the output of the power pack, with diode mode I get 565 at both primary connectors


What do you think ?
 
With the DVA cdi says min 200vac at cranking speed disconnected from the PP and 150vac connected for the charge coil. The ohms reading probably indicates a internal short in the coil. Replace the coil and go from there?
 
Did you replace the HT leads,and connections at the plugs and coils?
Sometimes they are taken for granted,but have been disturbed during repairs.
 
I changed the charge coil.
About the last question of valvebounce : yes, I already replaced the HT leads and connections, power pack, plugs and sensor.
I also replaced the charge coil last year, but as I said it was an old stock product, maybe not so new or not so good.

Please, take a look at the little video I made to see the result, you can see by yourselves all ignition parts are new :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IgCygbQWiXsinQNVMN3kqSs-BeLZAc1B

I think my ignition issue is solved now
Next weeks, I have to take the sea to confirm the repair but I'm confident

Many thanks to all of you and have a great day.
 
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