Logo

Help please with model # and starting issues

Mikeb24

New member
Morning Guys, thanks in advance for any help. I have a Evinrude 9.9 it appears the model number appears to be E10ELERD. I was running down the lake the other day and sideswiped a stump, motor shut down and has not restarted since. I'm not a great mechanic but I usually can figure things out. I've checked and the gas is pumping to the carb. I replaced and gapped the plugs. I've confirmed a spark by grounding the plug to the motor. I've ground to a halt. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Hey thanks! I did pull the flywheel. The key is not flush with the shaft however it only is out a heavy 1/16" maybe? I can tap the top flush and the bottom of the key is out maybe a 1/8" or so< is the normal?
 
The key is there to position the flywheel for proper spark timing.-----The flywheel is driven by the locking tapers.----On some years the same key is used on 9.9 models and 300 hp models.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the quick response, I’m actually standing here looking at it. Like I said previously that key appears to stick out maybe a 1/16 of a inch from the shaft. Do you think that is correct?
 
Yes it is a 94 model.-------The key only sticks out a wee bit and that is normal.----The key does NOT drive the flywheel.
 
sounds about right the key could have a slight crease in it throwing the timing way off. Pick the key out and replace it after you lap the shaft taper to the flywheel taper. Be sure and tighten the flywheel nut to spec before starting it up.
 
If the plate wiggles up and down it can throw the timing off as well it wouldnt to pull the plate and clean and grease it good with marine lithium grease.
 
OK, so I have reset the fly wheel to or three times. And it does start momentarily and then dies after a few seconds. I believe your diagnosis of the key being slightly worn might be correct. Where would I find a replacement any recommendations?
 
I have taken the fly wheel off and on two or three more times. The key does not look damaged. I ordered a new one regardless. But what scares me is I detect a small bit of play in the crankshaft like maybe the top bearing is worn. Would replacing that bearing be a possible solution? And on a scale of 1 to 10 how difficult do you think it is? Thanks again for letting me be a pain on a sunday morning.
 
If there is side to side play on the crank you definately need to address that. If you split the case you may as well do a complete rebuild while your at it. A good used powerhead may be more cost effective. It depends on the condition of the crank and cylinder walls?
 
Roller bearings need clearance.----Ball bearings need clearance.----Outboard bearings are usually with the C3 designation for high speed operation.----End play on the crank can not be adjusted as it is fixed by the bottom bearing.----Post the actual dial indicator reading of what you have.-----Little bit / too much / lots mean nothing to me.
 
Back
Top