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2005 150 honda wont start with key

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charliefinch

New member
I have a 2005 Glacier bay canyon runner with 2005 150 hondas (2) and the port motor was having hesitant starts and now the starter is not engaging at all.
I can turn the switch on and go back and jump from battery lug to solenoid and will start right up. I switched the switches so that the port switch would start the starboard motor and it did. The starboard switch would not start the port motor though. I am not getting any voltage to the solenoid when the switch is in start position. I replaced the nuetral safety switch and checked for continuity when in nuetral and in fact had continuity through the switch. Would like any other suggestions I can get. Thanks
 
Sorry I misread what you’d tried. Sounds to me like the 10 amp fuse in the fuse block is blown. I can’t remember the exact name of the circuit off the top of my head but check the fuses and pay close attention to the 10 amp fuse. If the trim motor isn’t responding then for certain that fuse is suspect under your conditions.
 
Fuse number 5 protects the ignition switch circuit, it is worth checking if you have no warning buzzer or gauges operating when key is turned on.
 
Thanks for your input. my buzzer and warning lights both are working fine at the switches and trim motors both working fine at controls and on the motors . So what you are suggesting is if I have power on the Black/white wire at the main relay the relay may be faulty and where is the main relay? Thanks
 
The main relay is situated behind the ECM in the electrical component box on the starboard side of the power head. May I suggest you get a workshop manual if you are going to carry out your own diagnostics.
 
the black/ white wire had voltage to it when key is in start position the black/white wire that your speaking of that I checked was in a 6 gang plug going to the relay with just 5 wires in it the wires were either 18 or 20 gauge {small wires). To change out the relay I will need to remove the fuse box from its support bracket and am having trouble getting the box to release from the bottom bracket support. Have any info on how to get the fuse box free from that bottom bracket?
 
It would seem you have located the problem, the main relay has 3 plugs and a separate wire to the exciter terminal on the starter solenoid. To remove the fuse box, simply get a small flat blade screwdriver and insert it into the lot on the front side of the top and bottom plastic clip, unlock one at a time whilst gently pulling the fuse box and it should slide out easily leaving the clips on the mounting bracket in place. You can then easily remove the main relay once you have disconnect the harnesses and solenoid wire.
 
You said you had voltage to the black with white stripe going into the main relay when turning key ti start position, how exactly did you ascertain this, because if that is energising it has to start?
 
As I said I checked voltage to the black/white wire in the rectangular 6 gang plug with just 5 wires. This plug connects to the starter relay along with two other plugs and the solenoid exciter wire. The wire I checked has 11.55 volts to it when the switch is in the start position and has ,05 volts when the switch is in the on position only {not start position}.The black/white wire that I am checking is a small gauge wire as I said in a previous thread. The voltage to battery cable lug on the motor is 13.5 volts
 
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1 volt drop from starter lug, to the ignition switch and back to the engine is acceptable. Are you back probing the black/white whilst it is connected to the the relay because you should check the circuit loaded?
 
No I didn't check it while the circuit was loaded but I will. I did check the other motors (starboard side} black/white wire on relay plug without it being loaded and it had 13.5 volts to it and this motor is starting. Thanks
 
I checked it under a load multiple times first time it was 9.7 volts then again was 8.8 volts then again was 7.3 volts it seemed to get weaker every time I checked it . I figure it must have some corrosion in the line somewhere (rotten wire). The plug itself looked extremely clean. Probably somewhere in the harness.
 
charliefinch said:
I checked it under a load multiple times first time it was 9.7 volts then again was 8.8 volts then again was 7.3 volts it seemed to get weaker every time I checked it . I figure it must have some corrosion in the line somewhere (rotten wire). The plug itself looked extremely clean. Probably somewhere in the harness.
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I have a new to me '05 GB 2690 w/ twin '04 BF150's, with the same problem in port engine recently. My wife found the cause by jiggling the control lever in the neutral position, which now never fails when switch held on start and handle jiggled. So seems to be a faulty or in-need-of adjustment interlock switch, which I'll look into soon when I get the time.
Pete
 
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