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1995 Evinrude 90HP audible alarm question

fourtwenty

New member
Should the high temp alarm make the same pitch sound as the one you hear when you first turn the key, and when you have a low oil alarm?

Recently the alarm "speaker" on the throttle control has started making a weird, faint buzzing sound when at any rpm above idle, while in gear. If I had to guess I would say the speaker is broken, but it still makes the loud high pitched ping when you turn the key, and the intermittent same noise when the oil is low.

Any suggestions what this could be?
 
If you're using the regular side mount control box, it's possible that the internal curved portion of the throttle control or the warm up lever is shorting against one of the horn terminals... check it.

If a console mount (or the above), it's possible the horn itself is failing. Test by removing the TAN wire from the horn... if the sound persists, the horn is faulty..... If on the other hand, the sound stops instantly, either that TAN wire is starting to short out or a sensor at the engine (or oil tank) is faulty.
 
If you're using the regular side mount control box, it's possible that the internal curved portion of the throttle control or the warm up lever is shorting against one of the horn terminals... check it.

If a console mount (or the above), it's possible the horn itself is failing. Test by removing the TAN wire from the horn... if the sound persists, the horn is faulty..... If on the other hand, the sound stops instantly, either that TAN wire is starting to short out or a sensor at the engine (or oil tank) is faulty.

It's the side mount control box. I'll check those both when I'm at the cottage this weekend, thanks!

Does the fact that it's relatively quiet indicate that a true alarm such as overheat is unlikely? It sounds like the noise in this video but is only a fraction of the volume. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saKCCC6fAq0
 
Also, with the ignition switch in the ON position, ground out one of your heat sensors to see if the horn emits a loud normal steady beeping... OR... just some crackling squeaky weird noise.
 
Also, with the ignition switch in the ON position, ground out one of your heat sensors to see if the horn emits a loud normal steady beeping... OR... just some crackling squeaky weird noise.

When you say ground it out, do you mean remove it and touch the end to ground? Where will I find the heat sensors?
 
Usually it is a TAN colored wire protruding from the top side portion of the cylinder head to a connection a few inches away to the engine wiring harness... however I'm not sure of the color on the 1995 model wiring as I retired in 1991. The older models had what is called a knife connector, however I believe the 1995 model uses a bullet type connector which simply pulls apart.

At any rate... the object to do is to disconnect one of the heat sensors and ground out the wiring harness side of it to make the horn circuit complete... and the horn should sound.
 
I grounded the heat sensor and the horn made the noise I was expecting so it must be a problem in the controls. I'm pulling the boat for the season in a few weeks, I'll take it apart once I have it out of the water. Thanks again for your help.
 
Keep in mind that I'm not within hearing distance, so I have no idea what you were expecting or what that horn sounded like. :)
 
Great clear picture, but I see nothing wrong there.

You're saying that the controls are in the position whereas the low crackly noise would be sounding... BUT... I assume the noise is NOT sounding?... And if this is the case, it must be related to the other side of the control box when it is tightened shut.
 
It will only make the sound when the motor is actually running and at mid throttle or beyond. Problem is I have a gas leak at the engine so I don't want to run it in the driveway until I get that figured out.

Is it ok to run the engine in gear without it being in the water? I would of course hook it up to the garden hose.
 
Yes, it's okay to run the engine in gear... BUT... DO NOT be revving the engine into the high rpms as you would be risking a runaway engine. The engine would actually covert to a diesel with the rpms constantly increasing to a point whereas connecting rods would be flying out the side of the crankcase. Pulling the plug wires off or turning the key to OFF would do absolutely nothing. The only way to shut it down would be to clog the carburetor throats with rags or whatever.

I can only suggest that you disconnect the sensors at the engine, one at a time while that noise is taking place. Let us know what you find.
 
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