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1987 Force 50 no spark issue.

M

Marcushooper

New member
Hey Guys/Gals
I'm new to the forum here but I am excited to help contribute to the outboard world, I don't have a whole lot to offer right now, for I am very new with outboards and I unfortunately have a Force, the good thing about that is I will be constantly working on it so I'm sure I will learn A lot.

I will try make this short. 1987 force 50 Model# 507X7C
recently purchased a 14' 1987 Bayliner Capri with a force 50 outboard engine for $200. knowing the trailer was in good shape I figured why not. I did a compression test and all seemed good there. The engine does not have spark, what I have replaced so far is the Stator, old stator was confirmed bad, new (used) stator puts out 350v while cranking the engine so that seems good? Replaced the Trigger with a new one and still no spark. Both cylinders have no spark. There is no CDI on this engine, I have heard from a few people that it is unlikely that both coils are bad so I'm not sure what else this could be. do you guys have any suggestions? I don't want to keep throwing money at this thing if its not going to fix it. thanks for any Help!
 
First off if you think it's unfortunate you have a Force then sell it and get something else.

Most who "help" here are Force/ Chrysler fans.

These motors are fairly inexpensive and usually VERY dependable motors.
My last Forces, twin 1988 85hp. lasted until 2 years ago, then the transom clamps died from salt corrosion.

You 87/50 does have a CDI
It's a combined coil and CDI
You also have a kill switch on the dash, check it?
Also a fuse panel under the dash, one fuse might be bad and stop it from firing, this might not pertain to your motor???

You say you 2 coils? You shouldn't have any separate coils?????
IF?? you do have them? then you have the older points style ignition.
A no spark on that system usually means the contacts on the points are corroded and need sanding/ filing.

From CDIIgnitiondotcom
You need a special DVA or peak reading volt meter for the more advanced tests.
A regular analog or digital meter will do the base tests but not the more advanced.

  1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.
  2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
  3. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
  4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.
IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:

  1. Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK.
  2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
  3. Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
  4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:

  • If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.



 
Jerryjerry05 said:
First off if you think it's unfortunate you have a Force then sell it and get something else.

Most who "help" here are Force/ Chrysler fans.

These motors are fairly inexpensive and usually VERY dependable motors.
My last Forces, twin 1988 85hp. lasted until 2 years ago, then the transom clamps died from salt corrosion.

You 87/50 does have a CDI
It's a combined coil and CDI
You also have a kill switch on the dash, check it?
Also a fuse panel under the dash, one fuse might be bad and stop it from firing, this might not pertain to your motor???

You say you 2 coils? You shouldn't have any separate coils?????
IF?? you do have them? then you have the older points style ignition.
A no spark on that system usually means the contacts on the points are corroded and need sanding/ filing.

From CDIIgnitiondotcom
You need a special DVA or peak reading volt meter for the more advanced tests.
A regular analog or digital meter will do the base tests but not the more advanced.

  1. Check for broken wires and terminals, especially inside the plastic plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.
  2. Check the flywheel for a broken or loose magnet.
  3. Disconnect the kill wires from the CD and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground, turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. At NO TIME SHOULD YOU SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE ON A KILL CIRCUIT.
  4. Visually inspect stator for burned or discolored areas. If found, replace the stator. If the areas are on the battery charge windings, it indicated a possible problem with the rectifier.
IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:

  1. Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK.
  2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
  3. Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, readings should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
  4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS:

  • If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above.



Click to expand...
Ya i'm just getting frustrated with this thing, hoping to get her to fire here soon without spending an arm and a leg. yesterday I disconnected the brown wires, while cranking i saw voltage only on one coil pack and the other i saw nothing, i read on CDI's website you should never see voltage in the kill wires? which are the brown wires correct? if you do see voltage that means there is something wrong with the ignition it says, so now i need to check the rectifier and go from there I guess, thanks for your help!
 
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