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Retaining Pawl

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SGKEMPSR

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Question: Would a broke spring located on the shaft pin on the portside of the retaining pawl mechanism cause the outdrive (280) to cavitate above 2000rpm?.:confused:
 
SGKEMPSR said:
Question: Would a broken spring located on the shaft pin on the portside of the retaining pawl mechanism cause the outdrive (280) to cavitate above 2000rpm?.:confused:
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Are you asking about the Port side over-centering spring?
If so...... I would have to say NO!
 

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Are you sure its cavitation and not the hub slipping? healthy props ( no bent blades) don't cavitate. Has this always done this or is it a new problem? That assembly and the pawl only comes into effect while in reverse. IS this cavitation while in FWD or REV?
 
Started this weekend coming back from offshore going through inlet. Increased rpm's up from 3000 to around 3200 to adjust for following sea, when engine overrevved, then had to back down under 3000. Once inside inlet, did good until rpm's hit somewhere around 3200 with engine overrevved once more. It seemed like cavitation, but not sure. Checked it over today and noticed the broken spring as mentioned. Checked oil in outdrive, was a bit low (no more then about 1/2 pint). Just trying to get a realistic starting point. ​
 
First off..... I found an error in my image and made a few corrections to it.

SGKEMPSR said:
Started this weekend coming back from offshore going through inlet. Increased rpm's up from 3000 to around 3200 to adjust for following sea, when engine overrevved, then had to back down under 3000. Once inside inlet, did good until rpm's hit somewhere around 3200 with engine overrevved once more. It seemed like cavitation, but not sure. Checked it over today and noticed the broken spring as mentioned. Checked oil in outdrive, was a bit low (no more then about 1/2 pint). Just trying to get a realistic starting point. ​
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Stephen, I do not see how the reverse latch, or any of it's components, could cause propeller cavitation.
It is more likely that your prop hub is bad, or the prop caught something and held onto it for a while.

I am with Bob...... either take your prop in for a test/repair........., or install your spare prop and give it a try.


And as far as the spiral spring goes...... that little spring provides lift to the lock brace.
The lock brace becomes depressed (via the coupling rod) while the drive is in Reverse.
In theory, this prevents the latch hooks from releasing while reversing.
 

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Thanks Rick and Bob. I need to put the boat in the water and test to see if the issue is still apparent. Just for conversation, the prop is not from Volvo, although I still have that one. I replaced it with a Solas 15.5 x 17R four blade. If the issue still there, I'll pull the prop and have it checked. Rick concerning the spring and replacement. Is it possible to remove the pin to replace spring without having to separate the drive as described in the Clymer Shop Manual? One day I'll have everything fixed or in theory lol. Once again, thanks.​
 
Some Solas prop hubs are owner rebuild-able. To test for hub slip... using an indelible marker, draw a straight line from the prop hub over to the cone. Run boat. If prop hub is slipping the line you drew will not not continuous any more... unless you manage to slip the prop PRECISELY a multiple of 360 degrees....
 
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SGKEMPSR said:

Rick concerning the spring and replacement. Is it possible to remove the pin to replace spring without having to separate the drive as described in the Clymer Shop Manual?
First off..... toss that Clymer in the recycle bin and get your hands on an OEM work shop manual.

As for the little coil/spiral spring and lock brace........ I would pull the transmission.
Then I'd remove the Intermediate housing with the lower unit still attached (or remove it prior).
Get it on the work bench and make an assessment.
You'll find that you can take care of several other replacements while there.

Keep in mind that if you remove the pivot tube..... it is soft.
Use nothing harder than an Italian bread stick to drive against it!
The upper area must remain in pristine condition for the water neck's beaded gasket.

While the pivot tube is out, you can inspect the lower needle bearing surface.

One day I'll have everything fixed or in theory lol.
You should know that we never have everything fixed! :D

Once again, thanks.
You are very welcome! ​
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Some years ago we had a season or three here on Barnegat Bay where there were large floating patches of dead eel grass. When ever my prop "picked up" a bunch, the engine revved up and boat slowed. I eventually figured out that I could get rid of the junk, by slowing to a dead stop, and briefly engaging reverse for a few seconds... Once or twice is all it took.
 
Once I got inside on the intercoastal away from the rocks at the Jetty, I did just as you did, It came up on plain but let go just as it plain out. While inspecting it yesterday, I pulled a small piece of rubber from behind the cone. That tells me hub is bad. I plan on running the boat before the weekend (just to many people out on the weekend) to verify if the prop slips. Thanks for all the help.
 
Rick, your question about which gear oil I'm using seems to concern me. Does the term 100-200 cover all the models of the AQ series? I ask, because I think I may have miss understood the Clymer Manual (in which you said to trash), at the start of this project. Should I be using GL-5 gear oil/synthetic gear oil my 280 outdrive or using the same oil as I run in the motor (10w-40)?
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My 280 runs happily on 10w-40 ( or 10w-30) straight classic mineral oil. When Volvo wrote the manual, they did not anticipate that some owners in the future might be using synthetic blends ( as I do) or straight synthetic in their engines .
 
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SGKEMPSR said:
Rick, your question about which gear oil I'm using seems to concern me. Does the term 100-200 cover all the models of the AQ series?
NO!

I ask, because I think I may have miss understood the Clymer Manual (in which you said to trash), at the start of this project.
Should I be using GL-5 gear oil/synthetic gear oil my 280 outdrive
NO!
The heavy GL-5 gear oil will over-burden the die cast aluminum slinger pump impeller drive pin(s).
If you were to shear a drive pin(s), you will effectively loose the slinger pump's ability to send cooler gear oil up to the transmission for heat removal.

With regard to synthetic oil......... often the sliding sleeve/gear cups will need to be lapped in order to use the more friction free synthetic oil.
In other words, ** synthetic oil may not allow for enough friction for the sliding sleeve to lock up into it's respective gear cup!
When/if the sliding sleeve and gear cups have been properly "lapped" (*** Volvo Penta makes no reference to doing this), they will typically be OK with synthetic gear oil.


*** Lapping the sleeve/gear cups requires transmission disassembly and the know-how to do this!
As said..... volvo does not refer to this in any service or work shop manual..... but it does work well!


or using the same oil as I run in the motor (10w-40)?
In cold water, you will want to use 30W, and it need not be detergent oil.
In warmer Florida waters, you can use 40W.

Now.... if your 280 was equipped with a Duo Prop lower unit, then yes....... use GL-5.
And see ** above if using GL-5 synthetic! ​
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