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Quick timing question

J

Jay1234

Regular Contributor
Hey guys, Joe Reeves in particular, when using your timing method, how would one go about setting the timing 4 degrees off with a flywheel that only has a single mark on it?

Just something I've been curious about. If I'm an idiot, don't hesitate to bring such to my attention...

Thanks
 
Long story short, back when I was having issues that turned out to be carb related, out of frustration I moved the timing advance stop. Tried to time it wot on the water with my son driving this morning but it's impossible to see the strobe on the water. My flywheel only has a single line on it that must fall within 2 lines on the flywheel guard. Is there any way I can use Reeve's method to get this close in the driveway? If I run slightly retarded to be on the safe side would that be done by moving the stop out, so the advance plate stops sooner? It's a 68 55hp.
 
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So, using Reeves method, the timing Mark on the flywheel lands dead nuts in the middle of the half inch window on the flywheel guard that the factory omc manual says it should. Is it safe to say I should be ok there? Boat runs good I just wanna be safe. I will try to do it on the water again after work tomorrow, but that's definitely not an easy thing to do.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Have you checked breaker point gap, yes or no ?-----Could you use a meter on the breaker points to set the timing exactly and precisely for each cylinder.----Not just # 1.-----But wait there are 2 sets of breakers for 3 cylinders.
 
I checked and set the gap earlier in the season when I had the flywheel off. I have a dwell meter but I'm pretty sure it only has settings for 4-6-8 cylinder.
 
Jay1234 said:
... It's a 68 55hp.... Is there any way I can use Reeve's method to get this close in the driveway? If I run slightly retarded to be on the safe side would that be done by moving the stop out, so the advance plate stops sooner?
Click to expand...

That timing method I devised is just for the "Magneto Capacitance Discharge" ignition system that came into being in 1973 and is used to the present day.

The ignition system used on the 1968 55hp model is the "Battery Capacitance Discharge" system... a completely different animal so to speak... completely different designed components, and quite frankly I don't know if the 4 degree difference applies or not to that older system, sorry.
 
Doing a little reading here and there at work today and came across a few things. If, with the timing at it's full advance stop, I check continuity to see where the points are closing, and this happens while the timing marks are lined up, realistically the wot timing would be good then right? Is this what you were referring to racerone?
 
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A buddy of mine volunteered to run the boat at dusk one evening this week in a quiet section of river while I double check timing. Hopefully with low light and some white paint the mark will be visible. I will post results so we'll know if Joe's method is reliable on the battery CD ignition also. As always thanks for your guys time and help.
 
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