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‘89 Johnson 110 bucks

J

J.Wil

New member
Hi guys
my Johnson 110 has a new habit of “bucking” while underway in drive. It feels like it’s slipped out of gear for a split second at a time, every several minutes while in drive. Haven’t noticed it in reverse. It seems to happen at most rpms under load, I don’t think at an idle. It has the effect of feeling like you’ve struck a floating log, but not very hard. You can see the motor “buck” when it happens.
It should be noted that I just had the lower unit off to do the impeller and double checked the shift shaft length with a tape not the Johnson tool which I don’t own. Seemed correct so I reinstalled and shifts the same as ever, normally I think. I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks
Jon
 
Just had to turn that shirt rod while the lower unit was off did'ya? The measurement from the top surface to the center of the shift rod hole (in neutral) is critical. Yeah... the engine's jumping out of gear and back into it.

Someone here will tell you the exact measurement... drop the lower unit is adjust it properly... or plan looking forward to expensive repairs.
 
Thanks Joe. I’ll drop it and adjust again. I used the measurement in my Seloc manual, but maybe it twisted on the way back in. Btw, your posts have been helpful over the years with other questions I’ve had that we’re already discussed by you and others on here, so thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
I don't have the 1989 measurements of the 110hp.... but here's the 1986 ones. Just wondering if they're the same?

1986 - 90 thru 110hp = (L) 21-27/32" - - (XL)26-27/32" plus/minus 1/32". Have shift rod in neutral.
 
Joe you are correct, my manual says all mech shift ‘78 and newer 85-115 hp is 21.84 inches.
Thanks for the tip on the pocket level, I haven’t used anything but a tape measure before.
I wondered about an ignition miss, but I don’t know much about that. How would I look into it? Thanks
 
I guess it might be worth mentioning that it has always (I’ve owned it for three years) runs rough at mid range rpms. I usually troll at an idle or slightly above and cruise 3800-4400. Runs great at those and all the way to wot, but rough at the rpms transitioning to planing. Possible electrical symptom?
When I did the impeller this spring I also changed spark plugs. I should check that all associated wires are sound, but it’s not one cylinder dropping out for a split second, but all power. So I’ll adjust the shift rod to be sure, easy enough, then pursue electrical causes.
 
Well, the shift rod was out by 1/16” too long. It’s right on the money now, I’ll run it tomorrow and see if it fixed things. Otherwise, I guess I’m looking into intermittent electrical cut out?
 
The rain here finally stopped and I took the boat out. Still doing its jolting every few minutes. I’m now thinking it may just be one cylinder cutting out. Should be easier to trace. I’ll start at plugs, then wires, coils etc until I find a fault.
 
Run a cylinder drop test, Pulling one plug wire at a time while running,a change in rpm and a change in sound is what you are wanting, If no change you have the defective cylinder
 
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