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Boat leans to port while on plane, but ONLY at full throttle

Noelie84

Member
Good morning!
Wondering if some of you can shed some light on the root cause of this issue for me. I've got a '66 Corson runabout that I hung a 60hp Mercury on last fall (the 45 horse that it had on it didn't have quite enough 'oomph' with a load in the boat). It now tops out around 30mph and gets onto plane much faster, and most importantly will actually get up on plane with 4 people in it, even in choppy water. The engine has power tilt/trim as well, which is nice.
The problem that I'm running into is that when it's up on plane and you max out the throttle it will lean to the left. Not a lot, maybe 10-15 degrees depending on the weight distribution on a given day. The boat planes perfectly level at anything less than full throttle, anywhere from 12-25ish mph (according to the GPS), and if you go to full throttle from a dead stop it doesn't start to lean until you're up on plane and moving along pretty quickly (over 20mph).
I've been told that it's torque from the prop, that the zinc fin is crooked or bent, that the skeg is bent, that the motor is mounted off-center, that it's mounted too low, that it's mounted too high, that the stringers are rotten and are letting the hull flex, that the weight isn't distributed correctly, that I need a set of hydrofoil fins for the motor, etc.

I've tried:
1) Moving the fuel tanks to the starboard side (the battery is already over there), moving passengers around, etc and it still does it.
2) I had a set of Doel hydrofoil fins on the motor as well, so I tried removing them to see if they were the cause, or a contributing factor, but it didn't have any noticeable effect. (although I did pick up 1-2 mph at the top end)
3) I've checked and rechecked the motor to make sure it's centered (it is) and level (it is), and that it doesn't have any bent parts (it doesn't). The zinc fin thing is also straight and pointed true.
4) I pulled the plywood floor out and checked the stringers to see if they've gone bad, but the bilges were dry, the fiberglass around the stringers is in good shape and the stringers themselves are completely dry all the way along their length (I did plug the bore holes with epoxy after I was done to make sure they didn't become a problem in the future)
5) I've tried adjusting the trim in & out while on plane at full throttle, and it does have a 1-2 degree effect but doesn't actually correct the lean


I'd like to be able to fix this without adding a set of trim tabs, but I'd also like to go full speed/full throttle without looking like I've got Vince Wilfork in the passenger seat. I'm also hesitant to just throw a set of trim tabs at it in case I'm just masking a bigger problem. Can anybody out there tell me what the reason for this lean might be? Sorry if it's a simple answer that I'm missing; this is my first powerboat and I've only had it for about a year so I'm still learning. I tried searching the forum but didn't find any definite answers in other threads.
 
Here's a photo of the boat, in case the hull shape might be a contributing factor?
full
 
Is your boat rated for a 60HP? Maybe you have more HP than the hull is designed to handle?

A picture of your transom with the engine trimmed all the way down would be really helpful. The cavitation plate of the outboard should be just about level with the bottom of the hull. Too high and you'll get prop cavitation, too low and you'll get drag and odd hull attitudes. From what you describe it sounds like your outboard may be setting too low.

This image is from Mercury Marine and illustrates correct motor placement for various applications:
progressive-engine-height.jpg

If all things are correct and your hull isn't over-powered, then you might need to install a set of trim tabs to change the hull attitude.

http://nauticusinc.com/smart-tabs/

I installed Smart Tabs on a previous boat because it did the same thing. I chased just about every issue and nothing was out of whack except a list to port when planing. The Smart Tabs can be adjusted so you have a little more downforce on one side which will lift that side slightly. That should take care of your list and help the boat to run on level plane.

KJ
 
KJ gave a good analysis and recommendation. But before going down that route, I would suggest that you first adjust the zinc trim tab to tilt right as you are facing the boat from the rear and see if that helps. Theoretically, that trim tab, adjusted to the right, will force the right side down a bit, offsetting the list to the left. Given your description of your list to port, I suspect you will initially need to try a fairly radical angle, say 30 degrees off center. If that does help, then adjust incrementally until you get to the point where the list is gone and the steering on your boat doesn't "pull" one way or the other while on plane.

Normally adjusting that trim tab is to offset torque from the prop so that your steering doesn't pull you one way or the other. However, on a smaller, lighter boat running a max RPM, that could also be contributing to the list that you describe.
 
Is your boat rated for a 60HP? Maybe you have more HP than the hull is designed to handle?

A picture of your transom with the engine trimmed all the way down would be really helpful. The cavitation plate of the outboard should be just about level with the bottom of the hull. Too high and you'll get prop cavitation, too low and you'll get drag and odd hull attitudes. From what you describe it sounds like your outboard may be setting too low.

This image is from Mercury Marine and illustrates correct motor placement for various applications:
View attachment 18305

If all things are correct and your hull isn't over-powered, then you might need to install a set of trim tabs to change the hull attitude.

http://nauticusinc.com/smart-tabs/

I installed Smart Tabs on a previous boat because it did the same thing. I chased just about every issue and nothing was out of whack except a list to port when planing. The Smart Tabs can be adjusted so you have a little more downforce on one side which will lift that side slightly. That should take care of your list and help the boat to run on level plane.

KJ

The boat was built before the manufacturers started including the HP ratings plates, but the local marina said that according to some formula regarding the 17 foot length and 5 foot beam that it should take up to 80hp without trouble.

As for how the motor is hung, it's closest to the 3rd photo, the 'sport' position. I'll grab a photo and see if I can upload it.

KJ gave a good analysis and recommendation. But before going down that route, I would suggest that you first adjust the zinc trim tab to tilt right as you are facing the boat from the rear and see if that helps. Theoretically, that trim tab, adjusted to the right, will force the right side down a bit, offsetting the list to the left. Given your description of your list to port, I suspect you will initially need to try a fairly radical angle, say 30 degrees off center. If that does help, then adjust incrementally until you get to the point where the list is gone and the steering on your boat doesn't "pull" one way or the other while on plane.

Normally adjusting that trim tab is to offset torque from the prop so that your steering doesn't pull you one way or the other. However, on a smaller, lighter boat running a max RPM, that could also be contributing to the list that you describe.

I will give that a try next time I take it out. Unfortunately we've got some pretty heavy rain in the forecast for the rest of this weekend and coming week, so it may have to wait until next weekend. :(
Hopefully that fixes it, though. It's something of a 'budget boat' (currently I've actually made a little money on it, from selling the 45 horse) and I'm hoping to keep it that way (although from what I hear, that's never the case with a boat)
 
Looks like your anti-cavitation plate (correctly called the anti-ventilation plate) appears to be mounted too high. For optimum performance on that boat through a range of speeds, that plate should be even with the lowest point on the transom. Do you have an easy option for lowering it?

However, I doubt if that is causing the list to port.
 
I don't think so; short of cutting the transom (not gonna happen, haha!) I don't think I have any way of dropping it down lower. I'll check when I get home from work and see if it has an adjustable mounting plate.

Here's a better angle but a blurrier photo: this one was taken dead level with the anti cavitation plate but wasn't as clear (crappy cell phone camera) so I didn't post it first.

full

20180720_184432.611421

20180720_184432.611421
 
I know you don't want to drop more bucks on the boat, but one cure is a manual/mechanical jack plate. You're looking at around $250 +/-.

But that's a diversion. Let us know what happens when you change the trim tab.
 
I know you don't want to drop more bucks on the boat, but one cure is a manual/mechanical jack plate. You're looking at around $250 +/-.

But that's a diversion. Let us know what happens when you change the trim tab.

Googling...

That's an interesting contraption. Might have to keep it in mind if the motor doesn't have an adjustable plate.

I'll keep you all posted on the trim tab adjustment.

Thanks for all the help so far!
 
Agreed, you might be a bit high on the transom. Hold a straight edge to the bottom of the hull and see how the top of that sets in relation to the anti ventilation plate. Is your top set of mounting bolts in the top set of holes on the motor transom bracket? If so, then you're as low as you can go. IF not, you might be able to lower it one hole.

Also, checking the trim tab is a good idea. That one slipped my mind and if it's out of adjustment usually creates a condition where the steering pulls to the left. But depending on the hull I suppose it could make it list to port as well.
 
Good idea, I'll try the straight edge trick tonight after work and will see if I can get a picture at the same time (sometimes I think I need a 3rd hand). I'm hoping to be able to get out on the water tomorrow night if the weather cooperates so I can check on the trim tab adjustment.
 
Thats alot of motor for that boat have you checked WOT rpm? Once you confirm tilt angle is correct check WOT rpm anything over 5500rpm and your under propped. Get a prop with more pitch and then focus on the listing issue.
 
It's got a 15P Quicksilver on it right now, and I think WOT is 5200-5400 RPM, depending on the load. I had a 13P from the old motor that I tried initially, but it was overrevving so I bumped it up. I think that the highest pitch they offer for this motor (13 spline, thru-hub exhaust, 11" or less diameter) would be a 17p, but if that drops the rpm a similar amount that going from 13 to 15 did (around 300-400RPM) it seems like that would be too low, especially if I had more than 2 people in the boat.
 
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Ok, so I was able to get the boat on the water this weekend and the different angle on the zinc tab helped with the list but again didn't cure it. If I adjusted it so that it didn't list at all while on plane it pulled the wheel over, and if I adjusted it so it didn't pull the wheel it still had a list (although not as bad). So, it looks like a set of trim tabs are in my future. Does the group have any recommendations on those? Should I go with hydraulically (or electrically, if they make them) adjustable tabs, or with fixed/mechanically adjusted ones?
 
Personally, I am a fan of the electric Lenco trim tabs. I've had them on my boat for over 10 years and they are flawless. No hydraulics to worry about. Shop around and you should be able to find a complete kit for about $500.
 
Yikes. Those look pretty nice, but I don't know if I want to put them on a 50+ year old cheap runabout, haha!
I'll keep an eye out on ebay and see if a deal or a used set pops up, I guess. For the interim I can live with the lean; I'm not at max throttle all that often, and I can keep fiddling with the zinc fin to see if I can find a sweet spot.
 
The trim tab's purpose is to mitigate any steering issues.....the list you are getting is likely due to the the torque at the prop.....and other than pulling the throttle back, trim tabs are likely your most effective option...
 
.... So, it looks like a set of trim tabs are in my future. Does the group have any recommendations on those?
I had a late 70's closed bow boat that had a list to port that I could never eliminate. I installed a set of Smart Tabs from Nauticus Inc. and that remedied the problem. I won't say solved because there was some inherent problem in the hull causing the list, but the tabs corrected it to make the boat ride on level plane.
http://www.nauticusinc.com/

These tabs work automatically and you can also adjust the position of the gas cylinder on each side to change the force applied to the plate. On your boat you can set your starboard for light/normal pressure and your port side for more which should level out the hull. This is what I did to my old old and it worked well.

They aren't very expensive and are easy to install so these should fit your application.

KJ
 
Cool. I'll have to look in to those, then. At this point I can save my pennies and dimes over the winter for them and maybe have enough by spring :rolleyes:
 
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