1975 Evinrude 40 no spark

Hi Guys, new here but have always found helpful info on other posts. I'm completely stumped here.
1975 40hp came in wouldn't start. Somebody changed #1 cyl coil. I pulled flywheel, checked points and #1 had no continuity.
Replaced points, then it backfired.
I set up points with ohm meter and flywheel to close between timing marks. The key points towards opposite point dowel about 30 deg btdc and bbdc with timing all the way advanced. Gap looks about 0.050" but 0.020" didn't work on the highest point of cam so I did it with timing marks.
Flywheel is still magnetized. I put it together today, it popped once and then no spark.
I disconnected blue wire at key switch, installed new plugs, pulled ht wires and checked R,went through coils, checked coil grounds. I ohmed both coil wires back to points. I ohmed the single coil under the flywheel. The condensers have continuity 1 way only and measure low on my 20M scale about 1.8 I think.
So whatever I did went from a backfire kicking it out of neutral to completely dead....I didn't see a vacuum cut out but those shouls only kill the lower cylinder any way. The 3 coil mag looks like a charging system, the single coil had very low resistance. New condensers are on order (got wrong parts). Should I be looking into a new mag? Points open and closeso unless I'm WAY off here I should get something. There is no timing mark on bottom of flywheel but there is an E and R. I split the difference between the 2 which was consistent with YT videos I watched.
Thanks for all the great previous posts in the past!

You're overthinking things, making it complicated.

Flywheel and crankshaft tapers must be clean, free of burrs, whatever. Flywheel nut must absolutely be torqued to 105 foot pounds. If not torqued properly, the key will shear which throws the engine out of time.

Setting points.... have the fiber portion of the points aligned with the flywheel key. Set the points so that a .020 gauge will slide through but a ,022 will not.

Clean the points with a small brush, using either lacquer thinner or acetone.

That's it!

How is your ground to stator plate? Be sure to check as your moving the throttle through full operating positions. Kill switch wires no shorts in them or in switch?

Ah, the beloved Lo-Tension magneto. Unlike the old Universal Magneto, BOTH sets of points must be making good contact when closed and opening at the right time. 90% of the troubles with this mag are due to the points and those two requirements.

Unless you have the timing fixture, quit messing with the marks and use a 0.020" feeler gauge at their widest opening.

I have been an auto diesel mechanic for 25 years. That's what I did the first time around and it backfired out the exhaust and knocked itself into gear. Compression is good.

kill switch disconnected, checked grounds with Ohm meter. I did see on LeeRoys site the E is for Electric and R is Rope start so I do have timing off but it DID NOT run at 0.020" on the highest lobe. I did the comp test with plugs out, that should rule out a head gasket between cylinders.

Let us know how it all turns out.

Do what I said.... then get back to us.

Have you considered the possibility that one of the wires coming out of the mag plate may be broken internally and making intermittent contact where they flex back and forth?

BTW, they made thousands of motors with that ignition. Ain't no way in hades you got the only one that won't run at 0.020". Even if that were true, it never would have gotten out of the factory. They test run each and every one. Been there and seen it happening.

It has external coils so I ohmed out the wires through the mag plate in the original post. It backfired at 0.020" so I was looking at lean sneeze/ crank seals but it had lots of fuel. I could see one bad condenser happening but not at the same time. Ordered them, was sent wrong ones. I'm wondering about the mag being erratic / shorted. As for the wires, continuity doesn't always mean they will handle current.
I had the gearcase off for a reseal and it's super clean. I should likely just go find another powerhead but this one has me perplexed.
Back to my original post, if it backfires at 0.020" then something is wrong. If comp is good, head gasket is good barring a cracked block it has to be ignition. Flywheel numbers check out to be correct. The battery I'm using started a 55hp yesterday so it's turning fast enough to induce, block appears to be original not missing paint.

Thanks all, this is the nicest $40 engine I ever owned! I solved the issue with a zip tie today. Glad I didn't order any parts. The solution has to do with the one backfire and then no spark. A very simple solution.....would be interesting to see if somebody can guess what it is.