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New prop hub for a 2004 Honda BF225

Mheltun

Regular Contributor
I’m planning on installing a new prop hub on my Solas prop. Is this something I can do myself? Does anyone have a source or recommendation for a quality replacement.

thanks.
Mark
 
I have access to a small machine shop where I work. I’ve not looked at it closely yet but what’s entailed to re hub a prop? Or is this something best left to the experts.
 
Thanks. I don’t have any prop shops locally so perhaps I may look at purchasing another one and sending this one in at the end of the season.
 
clkelley78 - are you sure you can do this yourself on an OEM Honda prop? As johnny said, I thought you needed a press to get the hub in and out, and the prop surface where the hub mounts need to be cleaned completely.

Mark - almost every marine shop has a relationship with a machine shop that rebuilds props and will usually handle shipping and return for you. The last one I had done cost me about $120, but it took two weeks to get it back. It is ALWAYS a good idea to carry a spare prop, thrust washer, flat washer, castle nut, and several SS cotter pins on your boat. Over the years, I've had to change out props in open water several times. It's not easy, but doable.
 
clkelley78 - are you sure you can do this yourself on an OEM Honda prop? As johnny said, I thought you needed a press to get the hub in and out, and the prop surface where the hub mounts need to be cleaned completely.

Mark - almost every marine shop has a relationship with a machine shop that rebuilds props and will usually handle shipping and return for you. The last one I had done cost me about $120, but it took two weeks to get it back. It is ALWAYS a good idea to carry a spare prop, thrust washer, flat washer, castle nut, and several SS cotter pins on your boat. Over the years, I've had to change out props in open water several times. It's not easy, but doable.


Sorry, I didn't notice Honda Prop. I have few Power-Tech Props for my Honda and takes a few mins to swap hubs....
 
Thanks Chawk and everyone else for their feedback. I do have an extra three blade aluminum backup that looks fairly crusty for a backup. I did reach out to Ken with the prop gods and he is going to advise me on a replacement prop that may tweak my performance a bit. Initially I had some confusion over the hub replacement. Reading online some say it’s a 3 min job and other say no way and specialized equipment is needed. I’ve now learned there are different style hubs and they are in no way “universal”. Plan now is to order a new one and send my current one in during the off season.
 
The part that still has me confused is the hub. Is the Honda hub proprietary or can a merc or Yamaha prop be used without modification?
 
Ok, that clarifies a lot. For some reason I was under the impression if the wrong hub was installed you needed to have it changed by a prop shop. An adaptor makes more sense.
 
Years ago when I was trying to keep an old Volvo I/O going, I relied on the "resources" section of the Michigan Wheel website to get an education. You might want to take a look.
 
I will do that. I’ve been in touch with Ken (aka the prop gods) and he has some ideas on what to try. I’m running a Classic 2320 Parker which is very heavy in the stern so I need something with some grunt and stern lift.
 
Relying on the prop exclusively for stern lift is somewhat self-defeating. You are putting more strain on the engine by running it tucked down for the lift. Do you have trim tabs on the Parker? If so, use those as much as possible to get the lift. If that doesn't cure the problem, Consider installing a hydro foil on the anti-ventilation plate. If you don't have trim tabs, consider installing them. I've had exceptionally good luck with the Lenco electric trim tabs.
 
Very good point Chawk. My vessel is equipped with both tabs and a permatrim plate, which both help a lot. This particular year of vessel was notoriously heavy in the stern and Parker adressed that with the newer models by moving the fuel tank forward. I generally don’t run with a full tank (147 gallons) but when fully loaded she is pig to get on plane quickly. The permatrim really helped lower the planing time.
 
Roger that!

One other cure is to get bigger trim tabs. Don't know what kind you have, but most the the main manufacturers have different sizes and they are fairly easy to change out. I have 9" X 12" on my C Hawk 25, and they work perfectly for getting the lift on that 6,000 lb boat.

Also, my boat came with a 30" Armstrong motor mount, which greatly improved hole shot and maneuverability compared to the original C Hawk I owned, which had a Volvo I/O powered by a Crusader 260.
 
My tabs are the 12x9 as well. My motor is bracket mounted and I added the permatrim. Ive been active on classic Parker forum with my “restoration” and I added the permatrim foil after many members highly recommended it. When the engine was running well I had no problems getting on plane with a decent load and she topped out near 40mph which actually surprised me. Your Chawk is a very similar hull (from what I’ve read) and they were on my short list of vessel to purchase when I was looking. I have a 21 deg deadrise which classifies it as a deep Vee vs the modified vee’s many have. Overall I’ve been very impressed with the vessel so far , although I’ve not had a good chance to test her out in the sloppy stuff yet. From what I hear the key is to drop the bow and let it do the dirty work when it’s rough.F74725A8-FFD3-48D2-AD62-DA3364A773F6.jpg
 
Yep - bow down into the chop. Still, my experience has been these hulls can take a heavy chop, but it's not pleasant for the passengers. I mostly fish the Chesapeake Middle Grounds, and off Cape Hatteras in the winter

.DSC_0020 (Large).jpg
 
This vessel will live out her days in freshwater on the Great Lakes. Sort of a “retirement”
 
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