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'96 Evinrude 150 OceanPro - Starting issues

T

tc80211

Member
Have had this 1996 Evinrude 150 Ocean Pro since new. It sat for many years and then I decided to revive it back in 2016. Cleaned [COLOR=#67B045 !important]carbs[/COLOR], replaced lines, and so on. Ran great all summer 2016, always hard to start cold but just assumed that was part of it. This summer has been a bit different. The last few times I have [COLOR=#67B045 !important]tried[/COLOR] to get started in my driveway before going out and after 30-40 minutes of trying I give up....

If I can get her started she will run like a dream ALL DAY. No issue whatsoever. I can turn her off and back on as many times as I please, its perfect.

Each time I go for a cold start through the classic Evinrude start procedure. Clap my hands 3 times, stand on my head and cross my fingers. You know the one.

It will crank and crank and never catch. Then I will have to stop because the carbs will flood.

Recently noticed the primer solenoid was leaking a bit from the front valve, so I rebuilt with new parts from Sierra, leak gone. However I do notice when I turn the red valve to pointing up and pump the primer [COLOR=#67B045 !important]bulb[/COLOR], it leaks like crazy?? Is this normal? Did I rebuild incorrectly?

That rebuild didn't fix my cold starts so now I am back at square one asking for your expertise! What am I missing?


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The o-ring may need to be replaced on red lever.------Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over , yes or no?----Have you tested to see if the primer valve opens when you push in the key ?-----The electric primer is a valve, it is not a pump.
 
racerone said:
The o-ring may need to be replaced on red lever.------Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over , yes or no?----Have you tested to see if the primer valve opens when you push in the key ?-----The electric primer is a valve, it is not a pump.
Click to expand...

Absolutely pushing in while cranking. The o-ring is brand new as was included in the rebuild kit, but maybe I messed it up on install? I can check that today.
The solenoid does engage. Tested and got 5.4ohms and also did a visual test with it taking apart to ensure the "need" inside retracts correctly when the key is pushed... Now I think maybe one of the fuel lines is blocked that comes out of the primer solenoid and is causing the fuel to pour out the front by the shrader valve.

So frustrating.
 
racerone said:
That solenoid was used from 1980 to 2007 and is very good and reliable.
Click to expand...

Then I def botched something when rebuilding it. I will dive in and see what I can do about getting it to not leak when in the "start" position. When it is in the "run" position, no leaks and I hear the solenoid click when pushing the key.

Anything else I should consider for cold starts?
 
Did you put on part #18-7044? It consist of a new (thicker) cover, gasket, & shader valve with new o-ring.
The old covers had a tendency to crank. Take a close look at yours if you did not replace the cover. Hair line crack will leak under pressure.
If the primer is working properly there should be no need to operate manually. Pump up bulb, hold key in while cranking. Do not give the engine any throttle. This engine has QuickStart & will start better without the throttle plates open. When it lights keep the primer pushed it. They are hard to flood. Most of the time they have not gotten enough fuel. If it dies, prime it again.
As far as additional leaks you are very close to the top on the vapor separator. #335236 seal will let that leak & look like the primer. Quick look & easy to repair.
 
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