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gamefisher engine issues

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silvrghost

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I have a 1990 Gamefisher 15HP outboard that starts for a minute or two and stalls carb has been profesionally cleaned, rebuilt and tuned, im having trouble getting solid info on who built the motor so i can find parts for it. Ive replaced the impeller and have great water flow.
 
Been through this, its the BIM I coils they suck and will fire when cold but not when warm even when they are going bad and they will show no signs of burn or cracking due to the other internal parts of the coil, , trust me on this I rebuilt my ENTIRE engine I mean it I took it apart down to the nuts and bolts and replaced everything but the coils and still had the same issue. Here this will tune you right up. THIS is what you need my friend.

https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/ou...er-9.9-15-hp-1989-1992-f712475-cdi-116-2379k2
 
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If you squeeze the ball will the motor continue to run?
That could be the fuel pump is bad.

Where is the air screw set at?
Should be set at 1 1/2 turn out for the initial setting.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
If you squeeze the ball will the motor continue to run?
That could be the fuel pump is bad.

Where is the air screw set at?
Should be set at 1 1/2 turn out for the initial setting.
Click to expand...


im not sure where the air screw is set the guy working on it says the carb and fuel system are perfoming flawlessly. and no it wont continue to run by squezing the primer bulb.
 
ok did this coil module pack fix all the issues ? I bought the boat in Feb of this year and i still havent had my boat on the water yet im in michigan so the water could be frozen next month.
 
Ok I really need to know the ohm output off the coil\cdi from a properly running engine. 1990 15 HP gamefisher 2 cylinder, model # 225581503/ serial #13429
 
The air screw is the only one on the carb with a spring on it.
Turn it in gently until it bottoms out
Remember how many turns so you can turn it back to that setting.

Read the post by chrysmyth17 and that will tell something about the service people and the stories they tell.
 
There is no way to test the coils with a meter. Either they work or they dont. They were built by chrysler basically a throw away motor. As long as the core laminate is in good shape and the air gap to the flywheel magnets is within spec it should have good spark. The problem is that when there is a overheat the electronics in the coils get damaged by the extreme heat under the flywheel. Those coils are basically the same as the newer briggs air cooled engines but failure is rare because of the airflow from the flywheel.
 
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