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0584589 Temperature switch for 70hp 1991 - What is closed switch temperature?

K

Klink

Regular Contributor
Does anyone have the temperature operation range on the part 0584589, the temperature at which it closes and activates the alarm? Temperature switch 0584589 is used on the 28-175 hp engines from 1993-1997. It is an upgrade on my 1990 70hp, so my manual does not show the open /closed switch specs.

0584589 temperature switch.JPG
 
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Tan with blue stripe horn goes off at 240* + or - 6*. SLOW resets at 207* + or - 15*. The original tan wire went off at 203* + or - 6*. That was found to be too low in some cases. Keep in mind it only takes 1/50th of an ohm to set off SLOW. Lots more to drive the horn so SLOW can come on for a variety of reasons without a horn. I have all of the temp sender values, but I'm not smart enough to get them into a format I can put them on the site yet? Working on it.
 
Thanks for the quick reply t2stroke. The tan wire is the standard on the 1990 70hp I am working on. I tested it with a cooking thermometer like the one pictured in the manual and also an infrared thermometer gun, all in engine oil like the manual says. I got such different numbers from the two that I got a third tester, multimeter temperature tester. The multimeter numbers were close to the infrared numbers, so I have to believe the infrared was accurate. The readings at which the continuity tester alarm went on was 227 and the alarm turned off at 174.

By the SLOW, do you mean the engine will slow to X rpms automatically when it gets to less than 200 degrees?
 
That's what I took it to mean? It is a chart & there seems to be a bit of over lay between the different sensors. I think I remember them saying they used oil because it is slower to react. Depends on how you heat the medium. Of course when an engine overheats the temp can be sky rocketing. Really hard to catch a motor before it is damaged. About the best thing you can do is wet the motor down with the primer/choke while you are trying to slow down ASAP.
First SLOW just chopped the throttle to 2800 RPM. That can be a rude awakening if your WOT in a bass boat at 6000 RPM 75/80 mph. You wonder what happened after you get your face out of the windshield?
The second generation stepped the RPM down 200 RPMs at a time every few seconds. The problem there is if you don't know what's going on your motor is burned up before you get shut down.
People don't have to read their owners manuals, but they really need to look at the pictures! At least.
 
One other little oddity with SLOW. First generation when it is set off because of temp it latches on and won't reset even if the over heat goes away. The motor must be turned off & restarted. A lot of people (pro fishermen included) will get the weeds off the gearcase or back up & keep the motor running to help it cool down quicker. That's a good idea, but you have to switch off & restart to unlatch SLOW. Guys have driven around all day at tournaments stuck in SLOW!
Second generation will reset if the condition goes away. Yes it can be confusing to keep,up with which motor you have. I don't remember when 2nd gen came about without a little research.
 
My 1990 Evinrude 70hp temperature switch was upgraded in a bulletin in 1990 to the tan and blue 0584166 which was later replaced by the tan & blue 0584589, but my manual does not say anything about SLOW, so I guess they didn't have it on the 1990.

This is a friends engine that I am fixing for him as a favor. On my engines I always had/have a water pressure gauge and a water temperature gauge so I can see what's coming. For example, I remember one time the water pressure went down a tad and I started to look at it, then the temperature started to move up, and so I shut down the engine, tilted it up and found the inlets clogged with some weeds. Other times I knew the pump was going as the water pressure went down slowly over time.
 
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