Honda BF130 hot or cold hard to start

So I recently purchased a 2002 Honda 130. After some initial problems (short in kill circuit, bad fuel pump) I was able to get it running. I replaced the entire VST and fuel pump with new, replaced the fuel rail, and finally disconnected the kill circuit and it fired up. For the first dozen or so starts it fired off within seconds, then all of a sudden became harder and harder to start. Hot or cold it makes no difference. I’ve read some of these forums looking for answers and the closest “solution “ that comes close to my problem is replacing the pulser coils. Any other suggestions out there? I hope you’re reading Hondadude as you seem very knowledgeable on these motors. Thanks for any input.

I should also mention that once it starts, it runs perfectly. Idles great, plenty of power, no hesitation through the entire throttle range. No misses, it’s smooth and quiet, runs great.....until you shut if off, then hard to get running again. Almost like it’s flooded, but it’s FI so hard to understand how that can happen.

The most common problem that I have found when this happens, if the IAC is either plugged with carbon or is not working. If could be faulty or not getting the appropriate signal from the ECU.

If you go to throttle only and advance the throttle when you try to start and the engine starts right away, it is a pretty good indication that it the direction of the problem.

Here is a link to that occurred earlier on the forum. As you can see, there are several things that tell the ECU what to signal to the IAC (Idle Air Control). The MAP, the TPS, and ECT all act together. When you first try to start the motor, the IAC increases the amount of air going to the intake (giving the engine a fast idle) and as the engine warms up, it slowly closes down the extra air (slowing the rpms down to normal idle). When you advance the throttle, that opens up the butterfly some on the throttle body, allowing that needed additional air to enter. Then as you bring the throttle back, the rpms come down to the normal idle (as long as the throttle body idle/air mixture was properly set when the engine was new).

Here is the link...http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?446494-Honda-bf130-getting-to-much-gas

Mike

Thanks I'll give that a look and post back if it makes a change. Initially I was having to advance the throttle (pump it like a carb motor) and then it would start, but it was never consistent......thank god for a good battery that allowed me to keep cranking until it finally decided to run.

Well, the IAC looked fine, very clean. I checked the spark plugs too because I've seen where you indicate NGK only and they are NGK plugs. What I noticed when looking at the plugs was how dry they looked. Even after several starting attempts where the motor just cranked and cranked, then I checked the plugs, still dry as a bone, which I find odd because the injectors should be dumping fuel into the cylinders when turning over....yes?

Here's how it seems to start now (I've tried several iterations, this one seems to repeat). Advance the throttle to wide open. Crank the motor....but here's the thing. When I first turn the key on the ignition (or whatever it is under the dash) beeps, I crank the motor for 10-15 seconds maybe a little more (it seems longer actually) then I get another beep while it's cranking and then almost immediately after the second beep it fires up and runs perfectly. I can turn it off immediately or warm it up before turning off and try to fire it up right away but nothing...I have to advance the throttle to wide open and crank it until that second beep happens.

Its quite frustrating and more than a little embarrassing when parked at a public dock and your motor just turns and turns. There is no coughing, no trying to start, just all of a sudden (after that second beep)away it goes.

Appreciate any more feedback you might have.

Check your main relay as follows. Locate the round 4 pin plug coming out of the main relay, back probe the Yellow/black and with a 12v test light (not a multi meter or LED light)monitor the power output whilst a helper cranks the motor. If the light remains on the whole time then the relay is good. If it is delayed as you describe the light will only illuminate after some cranking and when the engine starts. There was a campaign on the relays back around 2007 to replace them, if you send hondadude your serial number he should be able to see if yours was done. If the vapor separator wasn't done then there's a good chance the main relay slipped through the system too. Let us know how you go.

I’ll try that and get the serial number. I’ll let you know when completed. Thanks

Well, as I was preparing to perform this test, I tried to “wiggle” the ignition key while cranking the motor to try and reproduce the second beep....to my surprise I discovered that if I came off full right hand turn (of the key) about 1/8 of an inch, it beeps and starts right up.....so faulty ignition seems to be the cause.

Thanks for for all the suggestions.

John

Ahhhh! The "wiggle test" discovers all!!!

It is always refreshing when problems that can possibly be so complicated, turn out to be so simple.

Let us know if that fixes it.

Mike

I am easily able to get it started now, even at neutral throttle position. I’ll still be looking for a new ignition, but this certainly seems to have been the issue. I’m glad my battery and starter were able to survive through this all!

Thank you all for your time and energy. It’s awesome to have a place like this to turn to where you can get truly free and great advice.

John