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Will not run

jeff68981

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1995 Johnson 150 OceanRunner J150 EXEOM

Carbs rebuilt 1/2017 110 compression all cylinders great spark

Would not start then will start for a few seconds cuts right off blue smoak. Finally after squirting in carb cleaner starting running for a few minutes the cut off. Got it to stay running after a while took to lake and it ran perfect.

A couple days later tried cranking on muffs toof forever to start but only ran a few seconds will not start at all now. Fuel bulb is hard. Ani ideas?
 
1995 Johnson 150 OceanRunner J150 EXEOM

Carbs rebuilt 1/2017 110 compression all cylinders great spark

Would not start then will start for a few seconds cuts right off blue smoak. Finally after squirting in carb cleaner starting running for a few minutes the cut off. Got it to stay running after a while took to lake and it ran perfect.

A couple days later tried cranking on muffs toof forever to start but only ran a few seconds will not start at all now. Fuel bulb is hard. Ani ideas?

Sounds like you got fuel related problems - carbs or the fuel itself. If you can, pull the plugs, take a picture, and post it.

When you were getting it going via carb cleaner you basically force fed it fuel (which is bad for them by the way, don't do that).. Eventually you got it warmed up to the point where it was able to run a little lean - that's what it sounds like to me.

Dump your water separating filer into a clear glass container - more than a little film of water in the bottom of the filter and you are pulling bad fuel and/or water up from the tank. Get that problem fixed if it exists..

If you got fuel problems, or if you are unsure, flush out the fuel lines, drain carbs, and run it on a small portable tank with known to be good fuel. If it runs OK that way, you know it's just the fuel..

If it's not the fuel I'd start by rebuilding carbs, making sure you do not have fuel lines deteriorating and plugging things up, make sure you got a water separating filter in the boat to keep garbage from making it's way up there, and use marine stabil on every fill up (or something that works that way) as then your fuel will always be stabilized with much lower odds of having fuel problems down the road.

Jon
 
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Dumped some fuel in jar no water showing. Cranked it again for the heck of it and it cranked right up this time although lots of blue smoke on muffs. Stayed running at a lost. Will pull plugs and post pics. I also will get a bottle of the stabil to put in tank. I ran a can of seafoam last week though the tank
 
Seafoam, although it's talked about like snake oil (does everything good an engine may need depending on context :) ), is basically good for decarbing/cleaning is my belief. Stabil, startron, other such products, are made to maintain fuel.

Randomly putting fuel in a jar doesn't tell you anything, if you dump it from a water separating filter you got a good chance of detecting how much water is getting picked up since those filters trap it - the alternative is to pump fuel directly off the bottom of the fuel tank with a primer bulb attached to a short piece of metal brake line, through your fuel gauge sending until hole in your tank (and orient the boat such that the spot you are pumping from is the lowest part of the tank). I do not strongly suspect this but it's like compression, you gotta verify fuel before moving on.

The smoke - unless it's some insane amount of smoke, a wacked-out VRO pushing too much oil, carbs flooding and dumping way too much fuel in there, etc.. etc.. usually smoke does not indicate anything - amount of smoke with a carbed engine widely varies with weather condition and temperature.

Jon
 
Well went an hour later and it cranked right up and ran good.I am at a lost. Poured fuel from the water separator into a clear jar still no sign of water.
 
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Well went an hour later and it cranked right up and ran good.I am at a lost. Poured fuel from the water separator into a clear jar still no sign of water.

Well from your post it almost sounds like it was the first run of the season?

If so, usually in addition to the winterizing stuff clogging things up, the fuel in the lines and carb bowls is in much much worse shape than what is in the tank - sours very easily in small quantities.

Jon
 
Well Back to to the beginning. Will not start again. Will run for a few seconds pour lots of blue smoke and shut right off. Will not stay running been trying for 3 days now.
 
Well Back to to the beginning. Will not start again. Will run for a few seconds pour lots of blue smoke and shut right off. Will not stay running been trying for 3 days now.

I wouldn't put a whole lot of stock into the smoke, you got an engine that's not running right, as you crank and play with the choke, you are wetting the whole engine down with fuel, if it fires it's gonna be a mess.

If you want, put a new set of plugs in there to verify you aren't just so incredibly fouled it won't start (which would beg the question why are they so incredibly fouled to begin with anyway)..

If you want, test spark - check the book but basically it should jump ~1/2 inch w/ a spark tester and be consistent across all.

Based on what you described, what you did to get it running initially, sounds like you got fuel problems - you are probably back to Plan A, rebuild carbs.

Jon
 
Replace the cap on oil tank...when they cannot vent they push oil into fuel system.That what causes the hard start and blue smoke...
 
Replaced cap on oil tank no difference. Tried again and it would just turn over never started not even for a few seconds. Got a bottle filled with fuel mixed in oil and squirted into carbs started for a few seconds cut right off lots of smoke. will stay running if I keep squirting the gas into the carbs. Once I stop spraying cuts off.
 
Replaced cap on oil tank no difference. Tried again and it would just turn over never started not even for a few seconds. Got a bottle filled with fuel mixed in oil and squirted into carbs started for a few seconds cut right off lots of smoke. will stay running if I keep squirting the gas into the carbs. Once I stop spraying cuts off.

Many of these guys here know a lot more than I do - so maybe they will offer a better angle to pursue, but if you are keeping the engine going by feeding it fuel, when normally that fuel is fed via the carbs, where do you figure the issue likely is?
 
Decided to go try again I pumped up primer bulb put in run position pushed choke for about 5 seconds then let go and turned to start tried to start so I advanced the throttle just a bump in neutral and it started just when it was about to die I pushed in choke stayed running let go when it tried to di again I pushed in choke after about a minute it stayed running nice and smooth. Ran it up to the lake started with a bump of the key and it ran so good. got home and put on muffs started with a bump of the key. Going to see what it does after sitting over night.
 
Decided to go try again I pumped up primer bulb put in run position pushed choke for about 5 seconds then let go and turned to start tried to start so I advanced the throttle just a bump in neutral and it started just when it was about to die I pushed in choke stayed running let go when it tried to di again I pushed in choke after about a minute it stayed running nice and smooth. Ran it up to the lake started with a bump of the key and it ran so good. got home and put on muffs started with a bump of the key. Going to see what it does after sitting over night.

If you never used the choke before I guess maybe that could be one of the problems starting them, most carb engines like a little choke for starting and sometimes bumping them along with the choke for awhile after to keep them going, that's normal..

If you find you gotta keep bumping the engines along after a minute of running, that's another situation where you are just manually adding fuel and again an indication the carbs need attention.
 
Yep, you have clogged carb jets. The electronic choke (EC) squirts fuel directly into the intake manifold bypassing the carb jets, it is the quick test to know if the carbs are clogged.

I take the carbs apart and spray every orifice with CRC Isopropyl Alcohol spray using the straw. That is the way I do it because OMC tells you to use alcohol so as not to harm the carb with acetone, and the reason why I use it in spray form, is that I can actually see if it has cleared out the orifices, for you see the spray pattern come out the other end.

 
Well have no idea how but it is starting great. Didn't do anything to it. Let it sit for 8 days went out cranked right up with a bump of the key. Didn't hesitate stall or anything. It idled great Runs great ect and starts every time with one turn of the key.
 
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