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96 112spl ngk or champion plugs?

T

Tim D

Member
Can somebody give me some info on which plugs are better? Ngk or champion. I ran across a thread about ngk not so good for some motors. Thanks
 
I bought some champions and put em in yesterday. I noticed the end of the ngk plugs were coming unscrewed where the plug wire snaps on. I wondered if that might have been part of the problem? Either way it has the champions in it now ,I also noticed they were solid on their end. Gonna run over to the lake in a little while and see if it runs any different with that surging at wot intermittently.
 
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Thanks racerone, boobie and Kevin.I haven't checked that. I will soon though. Does it suck air in causing a problem? It just started giving me trouble not to long ago. It was running fine for 5or 6 trips to the lake. Then sometimes at wot trimmed out it would cut back seemed like half power. Didn't seem to do it often but would do it intermittently then go back to being fine. I have an extra set that I picked up on ebay bc I broke the primer nipple off of one when I was rebuilding them if ones warped maybe the others will be good. . Didn't know it was a replaceable part until Dan on here sent me a pair of nipples for free. Thanks again Dan if you see this.
 
Just got back to the boat ramp it started fine, got up on plane good, trimmed it out, got about 3/4 mile from the ramp started doing the same thing only this time it got worse after about 5 min with the new champion plugs in it!?!???? I also noticed the voltage meter was going to like 15v. I tried the bulb it was tight, tried to shoot gas with the primer to no avail. Any ideas?
 
Not equipped with OIS system.-----Post compression values .----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on each lead , yes or no ?----Perhaps test run with cowling off.------Perhaps test run with a portable tank and hose.
 
I'll double check spark and compression. It was good a couple of weeks ago. It had 120psi on 3cylinders and 125psi on the other one. It had good spark on all 4 plug wires . I'll hafta wait til my buddy gets back from the beach to get the compression checker again. I'll check spark this evening. This thing has me running in circles.I done plugs,wires, fuel line, coil packs, link and sync, it was running completely fine and then this intermitten acting up seems to do better when you don't go wot keeping it easy the past couple of times but yesterday I wanted to run it into a bridge piling. Limped back to the boat ramp when i got the trailer in the water and cranked up to put on trailer again ran fine. B.O.A.T. Break. Out. Another. Thousand.
 
Still had good compression. I know it's getting spark bc the timing light shoots fine. Don't have a spark gap checker. I'll have to make one at work this week. I'm pretty sure rectifier is shot. It's got some dark brown/black material (insulation?) Leaking out the back when I took it off the motor, and it gets hot really quick when running the motor. Gonna replace it, would that cause the voltage to build?
 
Tim D said:
Still had good compression. I know it's getting spark bc the timing light shoots fine. Don't have a spark gap checker. I'll have to make one at work this week. I'm pretty sure rectifier is shot. It's got some dark brown/black material (insulation?) Leaking out the back when I took it off the motor, and it gets hot really quick when running the motor. Gonna replace it, would that cause the voltage to build?
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I dont think you have said exactly what model you have but if it has the water cooled rectifier/regulator
0585195.jpg
then the volts should not rise in the way you describe.

If however it only has the round rectifier
0583408.jpg
then they will rise as it is not a regulator.

Regarding plugs I dont think there is an exact NGK equivalent for QL82C but if you are forced to use NGK then stick to the inductively suppressed type (with a "Z" in the number ). I think BZ7HS-10 are probably the nearest ( the -10 denotes that they are supplied gapped at 1mm so will need re-gapping to 0.030") Avoid resistor plugs ie those with an "R" in the number.
 
The next time you have it in the water for "testing" do a full throttle shutdown and then pull your plugs and check for little beads of moisture on the plugs. It's possible that you have either a head or exhaust gasket leak....
 
Thanks vics. It's a 1996 evinrude 112spl. And I do have the round rectifier which I believe is just the unregulated rectifier if I understand it correctly.
 
Tim D said:
Thanks vics. It's a 1996 evinrude 112spl. And I do have the round rectifier which I believe is just the unregulated rectifier if I understand it correctly.
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I believe 20" models have the round rectifier while the 25" models have a water cooled rectifier regulator and a higher output stator coil..... dont ask, but that's the info I glean from the parts list .. . Its for details like this that you are advised to always quote the model number.
As far as I know "spl" does not indicate anything special about the engine. Just some fancy decals or styling.

At least you now know that 15 volts is possible.
 
So the rectifier was bad. My tach works now, but it still had the same issue. Runs fine wot for a few min, after 10 min or so it'll cut back. Stop and try to power back up might run fine might not. After sitting it'll crank up and run fine then does it again. I've got to take the carbs off and check to see if the bowls are warped as someone suggested. And I've yet to ohm the stator or power pack. Haven't had much time due to work and Independence day coming up. BTW it seems to sit at about 2200rpms when it does it. Thought it may have been overheating and s.l.o.w. kicking in but motor doesn't buck and shudder like I've read about when that mode kicks in
 
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