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6e9 L help

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Hyperhunk90

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Hello I'm trying to order an impellor the guys are saying they cannot pull nothing on my motor up could someone please help me by any chance the tag reads
Mainer 40E
6e9 L 403805
 
You have a 1988 Yamaha Mariner.It is an older Yamaha 40 HP painted in Mariner colours. A Yamaha dealer will have an impeller to fit if needs be
 
The two systems I tend to try and use of finding engine info has this engine more as an 1982 engine year vs anything else.

The model number that pops up searching the serial is 7040522 making it a 1982 plus the closes online chart seems to help verify....40 EL 6E9-402516 - = 1982...

The L = Long Shaft.

The link you posted of the impeller above doesn't make the list of fitted engines for your 40-HP size. So it shouldn't fit correctly.

Here are two of the same links that match your serial number range and model number for what should be an exact fitment of parts for you.
6E9-400231 - 6E9-423162 (EL), http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/40c-twin-carb/6e9400231-thru-6e9423162---el
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/00403805

I would recommend you buy a impeller kit so you get all new gaskets, bases, etc. etc. vs just a new impeller alone so you have less potential problems.

Here's a direct link to your impeller options including kit's which some are also near the bottom of the part item numbers too, http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury_marine_parts/sn/00403805/ 7040522/703_170

The OEM service manual you may want to consider buying is Merc part number 90-84520--2 which covers 40A (676-A)/40B (676-B) 40C (6E9)/W40 (676-A) engine models. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...--2&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=90-84520--2
(I) All
 
Thank you for your detailed response so it's Mercury that makes it not Yamaha sorry this is my first boat.i am ordering the impellor you linked and going to try that out
 
Yamaha built these for Mercury from around '74 to '94 or thereabouts.They were older Yamahas painted in the Mariner colours and sold mainly in Europe and Pacific rim countries including Australia.If you look at the plate/sticker with the number,you'll see "Made in Japan".
Yamaha built a lot of the two cyl outboards up to 60HP.Here's a link to where I get most of the info on age related questions,note the Japan sourced, http://download.brunswick-marine.com/download/dosearch/@isnew/desc?mod=17&lang=EN&categories=Outboard$
Mercury also built 40HP outboards which were sold within the US.
 
Thank you guys for all the info very helpful. I ordered the impellor but I also have a blade on prop broke...I can't seem to find a prop under my motors link posted bove maybe I'm not looking in the correct category. Is there a certain prop I need or not I know the pitch matters it's just a 15' fiberglass v hull
 
So there's no specific one I need for my motor just as long as my pitch is the same it looked pretty chipped up I'll see if I can read it when I get off.. thank you
 
Prop pitch is correctly determined for your specific boat/motor and how you load and run it.

Every outboard has a "WOT range" (wide open throttle range) where the motor was "designed" to run wide open.

It is usually above 4500 rpms but below 6000 rpms - again, depending on the exact motor. (sorry don't remember what the WOT range was on this model)

If you are running less than maximum horsepower for your boat and/or you tend to run heavy (lots of gear, passengers etc), the motor will have to work harder so the rpms will be lower than if you ran light etc.

Reducing the pitch will allow the rpms to increase (all else being equal), increasing the pitch will reduce the rpms as the motor works harder or easier to turn the prop.

For example, if you are currently running say a 15 pitch prop and your wot range was 5000-5500 and you were only making 4800 rpms full tilt that would mean you are running "too much prop" (too much pitch).

Rule of thumb - reduce or increase the pitch by 1" will result in an increase/decrease of 200 rpms. So if the 15" pitch was "too much" (4800 rpms), moving down to a 14" pitch should increase the rpms to 5000 (minimum wot range). In that case perhaps moving to 13" (+ 400 rpms) would be better - give you some wiggle room.

Other changes to the prop can also effect rpms. Increasing or decreasing the diameter (if available) will also have the same effect - about 200 rpms per inch.

Going with cupped blades normally drops the rpms by 50. Going from 3 to 4 blades will drop it another 50-100 rpms (with the reverse true).

Stainless props are less (flexible) so bite the water a little harder than aluminum (which bites a little harder than composite/plastic), so those will also minimally effect the rpms.

And finally, the time of year/weather/humidity/air temperature will effect how well the motor can "breathe" and that also effects the rpms. The motor doesn't work as hard in cooler/drier air so if you prop it to just barely into the WOT range say in the spring it might be gasping for air and not making the WOT range in the middle of the summer when it's hot/humid.

The lower the horsepower the less the effects will be noticeable (plus there may be less prop options) so typically you shoot for the middle of your WOT range and that will generally work "well enough" under various conditions.

So it might sound a little complicated but I only answered this way to illustrate that choosing a prob is not as simple as looking at some basic chart that says 15 foot boat with 40 horse motor uses X prop - or just because Bubba turns a 16 pitch with the same boat doesn't mean it would suit how you use/load your boat.
 
Thank you for the detailed info. I looked on the prop its so old and paint chipping I can't read any of the long numbers besides what appears to be "p14" in the middle of a bunch of other numbers I'm.hoping that's what it says and is the oitch. But when I took the lower unit there was no oil in it and no gasket where the lower unit breaks away is there suppose to be a gasket there?
 
Any info on if there is a gasket where the lower unit disconnects from the motor? There was no oil in the unit I don't know how long it was sitting
 
No gasket between the lower unit and mid-section and if it says 14P,it's a fair bet that's the pitch of current prop.But as Graham says,whether or not that particular pitch suits your use and still reach max or close to max RPMs,will depend on the conditions/weight he spoke about
 
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