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Need help cruising home on one engine

Finally had time and put the new engine and fresh transmission together yesterday. Going to the shipyard to make an appointment to have the crane drop in the new engine and transmission. Hopefully I will finish installing the manifolds, wiring and hoses this weekend and start her up.
Two questions
1. Anyone rember the initial timing on a 260hp 350? Base motor for Crusader, Mercruser, and everyone else that uses a marine 350.
2. Assembling my flywheel to crank I used a little antisieze on the bolts with star washers torqued to 65lbs. A auto mechanic friend of mine said I should have used locktite and suggested redoing it. I dont see an issue. Any opinions/knowledge?
 
good to hear you've made progress....

8 deg BTDC should let it start just fine and should be good for cam break-in...

We always used red locktight on the flywheel bolts when I was in the shop...probably ok but its a LOT easier to fix is now than after its in the hull...
 
Took it apart tonight will reassemble tomorrow when there is daylight with the blue locktight. Red is for things that will never come apart without heat,
When i assembled the flywheel/dampner spacer to the crank the original bolts looked tired and where grade 5 I purchased new grade 8 bolts. Issue I have is that I cannot get an inch and 3/8 bolts they are all inch and 1/4th or inch and a 1/2. I chose the inch and 1/2 rather than being short. I had to add a flat washer to make up for the extra length. So as assembled it is a star washer against the flywheel backed up with a flat washer then the bolt head. Torqued to 60lbs with locktight. Sound right?
Can I just eliminate the star washers and use only the grade 8 flat washer and lock-tight. Those star washers never feel right.
 
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jclays said:
Took it apart tonight will reassemble tomorrow when there is daylight with the blue locktight. Red is for things that will never come apart without heat,
When i assembled the flywheel/dampner spacer to the crank the original bolts looked tired and where grade 5 I purchased new grade 8 bolts. Issue I have is that I cannot get an inch and 3/8 bolts they are all inch and 1/4th or inch and a 1/2. I chose the inch and 1/2 rather than being short. I had to add a flat washer to make up for the extra length. So as assembled it is a star washer against the flywheel backed up with a flat washer then the bolt head. Torqued to 60lbs with locktight. Sound right?
Can I just eliminate the star washers and use only the grade 8 flat washer and lock-tight. Those star washers never feel right.
Click to expand...
Oops correction. Grade 8 flat washer against flywheel star washer, grade 8 bolt. Blue loctite, torqued to 60lbs
 
flywheel bolts usually have a shoulder and a thin head....a regular may or may not have that feature. you should be able to get a bolt kit at any decent auto parts store or a good machine shop.

My two cents is to get the right stuff....that said, as long as what you want to do doesn't portrude out to interfere with the damper plate and the flywheel maintains center, it will likely work.
 
makomark said:
flywheel bolts usually have a shoulder and a thin head....a regular may or may not have that feature. you should be able to get a bolt kit at any decent auto parts store or a good machine shop.

My two cents is to get the right stuff....that said, as long as what you want to do doesn't portrude out to interfere with the damper plate and the flywheel maintains center, it will likely work.
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Just putting it back the way it was except I couldnt find the right length bolt hence the washer.
 
Engine installed and shaft aligned. Pumps and exhaust manifolds installed. Bolting on the rest of the misc. stuff and hoses the next few days. Having hernia surgery Friday and wont be able to lift much for a little while.
 
good job on your progress...i had a double repaired 7 years ago....make sure you are healed before exerting yourself....a work buddy (mid 30's kid) had to go back for not 'resting' and his recovery took a couple months the second time....one of the "scope methods" will get you back up faster too....if that's an option, do it...
 
makomark said:
good job on your progress...i had a double repaired 7 years ago....make sure you are healed before exerting yourself....a work buddy (mid 30's kid) had to go back for not 'resting' and his recovery took a couple months the second time....one of the "scope methods" will get you back up faster too....if that's an option, do it...
Click to expand...
Yep They are scoping me with the Da Vinci robotic system. Ill be out of work for about 4 weeks.
 
Three weeks since the hernia repair. Got the ok from the doc to start normal activity with care. Will start installing the hoses on my new motor today. Nothing heavy.
 
Glad things went well and you have the doc's release.....you plan sounds reasonable....just listen to your body and you should be fine...
 
makomark said:
Glad things went well and you have the doc's release.....you plan sounds reasonable....just listen to your body and you should be fine...
Click to expand...
Got one for you. Installing the crusader old style raw water thermostat housing looks like the current one still available however this style is not. the top two hose barbs/nipples directly over the plastic spring driven bypass one goes left the other goes right. they feed the cooling water to the exhaust elbow and out to sea. they are supposed to be 1-1/4 inch ID hoses. Put in my new hoses...they slid right in with no resistance. Tightened the hoses as tight as the clamps could go and I can still pull them off. Calipers measured them at 1.23 on the raised lip of the nipple and 1.22 along the run of the nipple. The old one that was removed measured 1.27 on the raised lip and 1.247 on the run....
I tried both hoses with and without wire reinforcement. Just too thick for the clamp to clamp that gap.
Any thoughts?? I'm almost there.
thanks
Jim
 
Dont sound to me like they were made for 1.25" ID hose...maybe 1 & 1/8" ID hose?? I don't see any issue switching to the slightly smaller hoses.

Also sounds like the raised lip is a bit shallow....but with the specifics there aint a lot of choices.
 
That was one of my thoughts. Had an old mechanic at the marina suggested some “Southern Engineering “. Take a few wraps of electrical tape or bike tube to make up the difference then slip on the hose and clamp. He was saying just a discharge hose. Sounds sketchy.
 
I would avoid the "southern engineering" unless you like the southern tow boat guy. sounds like a good way for hoses to come off at the most inopertune time, like a speed run home with weather brewing.
 
I'll be the third vote for abstaining....the 1.125" ID hose is readily available.....may be worth a trial piece in PVC first - if you have to buy the full length...
 
makomark said:
I'll be the third vote for abstaining....the 1.125" ID hose is readily available.....may be worth a trial piece in PVC first - if you have to buy the full length...
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Found a new top half for the thermostat housing that uses the 1.25 inch hose and ordered it that way I wont be reducing hose sizes or using reducers down the line to make the other end of the 1.12 inch hose fit.
That's the only bad thing about old classic boats. Having to find parts that work when then are no longer available.
 
Well the big day came and went. Tried to crank and start the new engine. The old starter from the flooded engine could barely turn the new engine and got very hot. Took it to the re builder and bought from him a new High performance small bodied marine starter. Installed, turned faster but still dragging. Then I saw it....When cranking the engine I noticed the raw water pump fan belt slowly dragging on the pump pulley but not turning the pump. Took the belt off and the engine cranked much better. Took the pump off and it wont turn. Removed the back cover it didnt look bad corrosion wise inside. The pump had sat for 5 months in the garage It had been rinsed with fresh water and put away. I guess it was not enough. filled the pump with PB BLASTER hoping it will free it up. Might have to purchase a new pump. By the time I buy a rebuild kit and have a shop press out the shaft I wont be saving too much money and Id eat up time that I dont have.
 
Bummer...guess you didn't get it started at all then....??

Bearing probably frozen....not sure which pump you have but the last Sherwood pump I had apart had the same bearings in it as a delco 10SI alternator and they are pretty common...
 
makomark said:
Bummer...guess you didn't get it started at all then....??

Bearing probably frozen....not sure which pump you have but the last Sherwood pump I had apart had the same bearings in it as a delco 10SI alternator and they are pretty common...
Click to expand...


Nope... no start. just ordered an new Sherwood E35 pump. Will save the old one. Don't have time right now to rebuild. Have full shoulder replacement surgery May 02. Will be out of action 3 to 4 months. Need to get her running before.
 
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!
Installed the new Sherwood pump cranked the engine several times to pump gas up from the tank to the carb. Installed the coil wire cranked and nothing...Checked voltage..good. Took coil wire from distributor and went to ground no spark. Pulled the coil from my starboard engine and installed on my new port side engine. Hit the key and she instantly fired up. Adjusted timing so she would run, set idle at 2000rpm and let her run for half hour. Afterward readjusted the timing and idle shut her down and let cool off. Re-torqued all bolts that were accessible restarted engine. Fired up instantly.
Only leaks were from the thermostat housing. Changed the gasket and used more permatex gasket goop. Will check for leaks tonight.
 
May 2nd go under the knife. Out of work for 3-4 months. Glad she's running. Now cleaning up and repainting my once freshly (last year) painted deck.
Had an issue installing a Lokar flexible dip stick tube setup. Bought one for the passenger side of the block. These crate motors have a hole for a dipstick on either side. The tube would not go in more than an eight of an inch. I talked to the shop where i purchased it from and we fear that there is a tube installed by the factory already in the hole. I dont know of a way to check nor remove the tube with the engine in the boat and the oil pan on. For now I have a rubber plug pushed in the hole to keep anything from going in.
 
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