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94' Fast Strike 150 water in #1 cylinder

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Baxter83

Member
I posted in here a while back to get help to figure out why my engine didn't have any power. I found that the #1 cylinder is getting water in it pretty bad. I went ahead and got new o-rings and thermostat seal, and it'll now at least plane out and run, but WOT won't go past 4600 or so RPM. It's still getting water intrusion, but I can't see how. The cylinder walls are good, no cracks, and the head is also sound. Is there something else that I should look for or check?
 
This can be a common problem with this series of motors. It can be repaired, but requires a complete tear down of the block. First let see if we can make sure you have the problem. Pull the little plastic cover over the regulator/rectifier & the rectifier out of the top of the block. You should be able to see the glue lines of the block at the #1 cylinder. It will be close to where the exhaust port is. Any dark (exhaust smoke) in this area indicates a possible water leak. Pressure testing the block is the only way to know for sure. If your combustion chamber (head, top of piston, exhaust port is clean then you have a problem)! The fix requires removing the sleeve, welding the crack, machining the area, & re-sleeving the cylinder. We did this on hundreds of blocks back in the day. Jay's Block Shop, Sparta, TN is one place that does this. You need someone who is familiar with this failure & repair. Others around the country do it. I am retired now. Hope that helps.
 
t2stroke said:
This can be a common problem with this series of motors. It can be repaired, but requires a complete tear down of the block. First let see if we can make sure you have the problem. Pull the little plastic cover over the regulator/rectifier & the rectifier out of the top of the block. You should be able to see the glue lines of the block at the #1 cylinder. It will be close to where the exhaust port is. Any dark (exhaust smoke) in this area indicates a possible water leak. Pressure testing the block is the only way to know for sure. If your combustion chamber (head, top of piston, exhaust port is clean then you have a problem)! The fix requires removing the sleeve, welding the crack, machining the area, & re-sleeving the cylinder. We did this on hundreds of blocks back in the day. Jay's Block Shop, Sparta, TN is one place that does this. You need someone who is familiar with this failure & repair. Others around the country do it. I am retired now. Hope that helps.
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I really hope this isn't it. Harris Marine in Clarksville rebuilt it last fall. New pistons, rings, bored all cylinders .030 except #3 which was sleeved, and a new rectifier. Is this something that they could've missed, or should they have seen it when the had it torn down for rebuild?
 
Don't know if your builder was authorized or not, but many didn't know about problem much less non authorized dealers. Motors before 1997 should be pressure tested before rebuild. Simple test with right equipment.
Running the engine doesn't kill it so much as when it sits with the moisture in it. Rust will form on bearings & surfaces. Not good & will cause problems eventually. Off season is real bad. Better to get it checked out. We use to do the whole job for $650, but that was about 10 yrs ago. Need to get a quote for today's price. Call 931-808-0814. Ask for Jay & see what he recommends. Tell him Dan sent you & that your motor was just rebuilt & where you are at now. Good guy & will help where he can.

 
Awesome. I appreciate that. I'll give him a call. I just removed the head and the rectifier to inspect. There was no sign of a crack on the exhaust side that I could see, and no black carbon buildup. I'll post pics soon.
 
Before I start pulling the carburetor assembly off (mostly just to figure it all out), maybe somebody could tell me if there are cooling water ports on the block that are sealed at the gasket between carbs and the block at the reeds?

I can't figure out how to post pics. For other forums I've used Photobucket, but it's not letting me...
 
t2stroke said:
Don't know if your builder was authorized or not, but many didn't know about problem much less non authorized dealers. Motors before 1997 should be pressure tested before rebuild. Simple test with right equipment.
Running the engine doesn't kill it so much as when it sits with the moisture in it. Rust will form on bearings & surfaces. Not good & will cause problems eventually. Off season is real bad. Better to get it checked out. We use to do the whole job for $650, but that was about 10 yrs ago. Need to get a quote for today's price. Call 931-808-0814. Ask for Jay & see what he recommends. Tell him Dan sent you & that your motor was just rebuilt & where you are at now. Good guy & will help where he can.
Click to expand...

I called Jay a few weeks ago, and will be taking the bare block to him to pressure test and most likely to repair. He seems like a really nice guy and good mechanic. He gave me tons of info when I spoke to him.
 
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