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Engine Dying

jimlpp

New member
Dear Sirs,

My boat is a 1996 Glastron 175 3.0lx

Problem:

My Boat starts up OK. A little rough at first but after 30 seconds it levels off and idles fine.

When I take the boat out and run it at about 22 mph, it sputters and dies after about 10 to 12 minutes. In the time the boat is running, it run just fine.

I can let the boat sit for about 2 to 3 minutes and will start up, but run for only a few seconds before it sputters and dies again. I can repeat this process enough times to get back to my dock. I always starts up again - at least for now.

This problem has been ongoing for well over a year. The time that it takes to die is getting shorter. Last year it would run for about 30 minutes before it would die.

I first thought it might be something overheating. My engine temp gauge stays steady at about 170. So, I replaced a number of electrical components in hopes it would solve the problem. No help.

I took it out a couple days ago and it died like normal. I removed the air cleaner, and sprayed some starter fluid in the carburetor. It started of fine, and then died (I’m assuming after it ran through the starter fluid.) This made me think I might have a fuel problem. Who knows??

I thought I might be getting a vapor lock because of my gas/water separator. So, I bypassed it and took the boat back out but it died again on schedule.

I have replaced the following:

New Fuel pump
Installed a rebuilt carburetor
New distributor cap
New rotor
New ignition coil
New ignition module
New spark plugs
New thermostat
New water temp sender
Changed oil and filter every year
Changed gas/water separator filter
New carburetor fuel filter
New water pump impeller
I drained the gas tank and put in new gas.
I use additives like Heat and Stabil when I put in new gas.


This is very frustrating, and I want it fixed. I had a mechanic come out last year and tune it up and take it out for a run. I ran fine for him, but I don’t think he had it out long enough to make it fail. This was back when it ran for about 30 minutes before failing.

I am the original owner of the boat, and when I bought it I didn’t buy a trailer. This means anyone who works on it has to do it from my dock or they would have to pick it up with their own trailer. Few want to do this.

Things I have not replaced:

Filter in the bowl of the fuel pump

Pickup coil (this requires my removing the whole distributor unit and I don’t feel comfortable doing this myself)

I have not let the boat run for a prolonged period of time in my dock without load to see if it dies.

Things I plan to try next:

Running the boat with the gas cap off. I don’t know if this would alleviate/identify a vapor lock or not.

Running the boat using a temporary gas tank connected directly to the fuel pump. I was hoping this would tell me if I have an issue with things associated with my gas tank.

If this doesn’t work, I’m going turn it back over to my mechanic unless any of you have some suggestions on things I should try.

I know this is long, but I wanted to include everything I’ve tried.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jim
 
I don't see anything about the fuel anti-siphon valve on your list. It should be installed on your fuel tank and your fuel line will be connected to it. I have a friend who had the same symptoms as yours. He would run for a period of time and the engine would die. In his case there was debris in the tank and it would accumulate in the anti-siphon valve until the fuel flow was blocked. When the engine stopped, the debris would drain back into the tank. You can temporarily replace the anti-siphon valve with a regular fitting to see if that's the problem.
 
Rick,

Thank you for the info.

I noticed the coil is an aftermarket part. Would you suggest I replace it with an OEM- 817378T - Coil

Jim
 
DJR,

Oh dear!! I think I located it on a diagram.

If that is the problem, and I run my boat with the temporary external gas tank connected to the fuel pump, it should run fine. Correct?

Jim
 
the A/S valve should be on top of the tank....and it should be the fitting the hose attaches to.

Your assumption w/ the temporary tank is correct....just make sure you securely plug any hoses you remove....
 
If the tank has a bunch of crud/sediment in it, that stuff will cover the pickup tube's screen and starve the pump for fuel as well....
 
You said u drained tank and refilled with fresh fuel,but no mention of flushing tank,more than likely u have sucked up debris from tank and might have contaminated entire fuel system
 
makomark, johnnygjr,

I'm sure you are both are correct. I need to flush the fuel tank.

What is the best way to flush a tank?

Thanks for you responses.

Jim
 
makomark, johnnygjr,

I'm sure you are both are correct. I need to flush the fuel tank.

What is the best way to flush a tank?

Thanks for you responses.

Jim

Jim, I can't say what the best method would be because everyone has their own way........, but I can suggest this:


With some fuel in the tank, take the boat for a ride (on the trailer) down a bumpy road.
Do a few careful hard stops and hard starts.
Let this action stir things up a bit.

When you come back, tilt the trailer up so that the stern is low so that the fuel pools at/near the AFT area, of which will be right at the pick-up tube area and at the fuel gauge sender area.
Remove the fuel gauge sending unit and use that opening for your siphon hose.
Carefully siphon what fuel you can into a gasoline container.
Let it settle and take a look to see how much (if any) debris you find.
If you find much debris, you may want to re-install the sending unit and do this a second time.


Once the tank appears to be reasonably clean, re-install the fuel gauge sending unit with a new gasket.

Remove the fuel pick up tube (aka dip tube) and inspect and clean the screen.

R&R the anit-siphon valve and test it..... or better yet, replace it with new.

Install a USCG approved fuel filter. The Parker/RACOR filter system is superior to the standard marine filter.

I would also replace the old fuel lines with today's USCG approved fuel lines.



Now add fresh high octane fuel to the fuel tank.

With fresh fuel, a clean dip tube screen, a new anti-siphon valve, a new filter system and new fuel lines....... you will have a good clean system.



.


 
Rick,

Thank you for those detailed instructions. You said to install a USCG approved filter. I have the fuel line that comes out of the gas tank then a gas/water separator, then the line goes to the fuel pump. Where should I install the filter you're suggesting?

Thanks again for your help. I feeling a little better about my situation.

Jim
 
First of all, those were my suggestions..... not necessarily instructions!

A marine approved fuel filter will be a canister type, and will look much like and oil filter that threads onto an aluminum base.
The filter base will mount somewhere on the hull’s structure.
You will run an approved hose from the anti-siphon valve directly to the inlet of the filter base.
You will then run an additional continuous hose from the outlet of the filter base to the fuel pump’s suction side.

Unless the engine has been started recently, you may want to pre-fill the cartridge to about 80%.




.
 
Rick,

Thank you for your suggestions.

What you described as a fuel filter sounds similar to the gas/water separator that I installed a few years ago. I has an aluminum base that is mounted in the engine compartment on the back of the rear bench support. This filer looks like an oil filter, and I change it every year. Is this filter different from the one you are suggesting? Would you suggest I install the one you identified in its place or in addition to the gas/water separator?

Thank you for your help.

Jim
 
johnnygjr,

Thank you for your response.

Well, I guess I'll find out this weekend. I got my temporary tank in today, and I'm looking forward to hooking it up. I'm optimistic.

Everyone on this site has been so helpful. Thank you everyone!

Jim
 
To all,

This is my setup for the temporary gas tank. The open end will connect to the fuel pump. I'll cap the end of the hose I took off of he fuel pump.



Jim
 
To all,

This is my setup for the temporary gas tank. The open end will connect to the fuel pump. I'll cap the end of the hose I took off of he fuel pump.

gas tank.jpg

Jim
 
Update:

I took the boat out yesterday and this morning with the temporary gas tank hooked up. Both times, everything went great!

So, now that I've identified the problem, it's on to fixing it.

I want to thank everyone that helped me with this issue:

Rick
DJR
makomark
johnnyjgr

Thank all of you!
 
Congrats on the progress....

You may want to research 'fuel polishing' for more insight into the options available....most is targeted towards diesel.....many metropolitan areas have services that can do it where you are - others are drive to them....hopefully, its just crud accumulation....could also be a bad/cracked fitting...
 
Congrats on the progress....

You may want to research 'fuel polishing' for more insight into the options available....most is targeted towards diesel.....many metropolitan areas have services that can do it where you are - others are drive to them....hopefully, its just crud accumulation....could also be a bad/cracked fitting...
.... or a plugged/collapsed vent line. To test this, try running with the fuel fill cap off.
 
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