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1961 BB70 lives again after three-year layoff

jaschrumpf

Contributing Member
I'm looking at a 1961 Dorsett San Juan to buy, and it has the original BB70 engine with AQ100 outdrive (is that the correct nomenclature?) At any rate, it's a BB70 engine with a PV outdrive hanging back there.

Anyway, the current owner had never got the engine started. He was told by the previous owner that it did run, but after moving the boat down from Philly, he realized he'd forgotten the keys, and when the owner mailed them down the keys fell out of the envelope en transit and were lost. He bought a new ignition switch, hadn't been able to get the engine running after hooking it up. Fast forward a year and a half and he and I are trying to start the engine. It would turn over but not catch and try to run.

I looked the wiring over, and it was all messed up: the yellow-red-striped wire that should have gone from the ST post on the key to the S post on the solenoid went to the big terminal instead, and I never did figure out what happened to the wire that was supposed to go from the IGN post on the key to the POS terminal on the coil, as the wire changed color from one end to the other. As a result, there was no voltage at the coil at all, so no spark.

The owner and I pulled out all that wire and ran new wire correctly and in the correct gauge, and I put in new spark plugs, gapped to 0.30. Then I took off the dist. cap and sprayed some WD40 in there to dry it out. The fuel line had been removed from the tank and run into a 1-gallon gas can, and I don't know anything about that fuel pump, so I wasn't surprised that our first attempt did nothing, even after pumping the throttle a couple of times. But when we poured a teaspoon of gas into the carb and turned the key, she roared into life for about two seconds, then ran out of fuel.

We tried it a couple more times to see if it would ever suck fuel out of the gas can, but it didn't. Is there some way to prime that mechanical fuel pump?

Anyway, it was a good start, and I'm looking forward to working on it some more.
 
Ayuh,..... If it were workin',..... it would self-prime in seconds,.....

Then I'll hope that the fuel line just wasn't reaching the gas in the can. There were only a few inches of gas in there. I'll try again with a more full can.

Should there be gas showing in that glass dome on top of the pump?

Thanks for the info.
 
The glass area is for diaphragm burst or leak protection.
Unless it is a sediment bowl (perhaps low and on the suction side), it should be dry.

I’m with Bill...... if this fuel pump is good, it will self prime.

You may want to force some gasoline into the suction side of the fuel pump. This will wet the suction side check valve.

You can also very carefully add some gasoline into the carburetor’s fuel bowl vent tube. This will usually allow for an initial start-up!

Be very careful with gasoline vapors!!!! Vapors will settle low and can be easily and accidentally ignited.





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How about installing a primer bulb between gas can and fuel pump as a test. try holding gas can above engine,gravity feed.
 
How about doing the following:

replace fuel pump

pull dip tube from OEM fuel tank, inspect and clean, clean fuel tank

replace anti-siphon vavle

install new USCG approved fuel lines

install new USCG approved canister style fuel filter


If you plan to resurect and use this boat, these things need to be done anyway!



Also, (as per my post in your other thread) you will be hard pressed to find AQ100 parts......, in particular the unique upper gear unit equivalent of a universal drive shaft, etc.




.
 
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How about doing the following:

replace fuel pump

pull dip tube from OEM fuel tank, inspect and clean, clean fuel tank

replace anti-siphon vavle

install new USCG approved fuel lines

install new USCG approved canister style fuel filter


If you plan to resurect and use this boat, these things need to be done anyway!



Also, (as per my post in your other thread) you will be hard pressed to find AQ100 parts......, in particular the unique upper gear unit equivalent of a universal drive shaft, etc.




.


A good list. Got a couple of questions about things, too.

Does "replace fuel pump" mean with an aftermarket pump? I seem to remember reading on these forums somewhere that an aftermarket pump is perfectly fine, and should be in the 6-8 range. Is that true, and are those units psi? Would the new pump be down on the engine side, or back with the fuel tank?

I was planning on inspecting and cleaning the fuel tank. Luckily, right behind were my boat will be stored while I'm doing all this and repainting the interior is an auto repair shop. Very convenient.

It's a real drag that manuals for the 1961 engines are non-existent.

"Anti-siphon valve" is ringing a faint bell from years ago when I was keeping a 1975 Universal Atomic 4 running in my sailboat. Is that the valve that prevents the raw water from siphoning back into the cylinders?

New fuel lines for sure, and a Racor filter for the finish. I also want to put in the electronic ignition in place of the points. Did this on the Atomic 4, and kept a set of points handy just in case.

Thanks for all the info. Without a manual, this forum is all I've got!

James
 
The antisiphon valve is bellow the fuel hose connection on the fuel tank
The anti-siphon valve is typically horizontally positioned, and is threaded into the 90* fitting at the top of the pick-up tube.
You will find it at the forward-most end of the first fuel line. This will be the fuel line that connects to the inlet side of the canister style fuel filter.
 
The anti-siphon valve is typically horizontally positioned, and is threaded into the 90* fitting at the top of the pick-up tube.
You will find it at the forward-most end of the first fuel line. This will be the fuel line that connects to the inlet side of the canister style fuel filter.

Would that be the circled fixture?
fuel_tank.jpg
Hmmm, looks like the circle's not showing up. Would it be the leftmost fitting in that picture?
 
Found this stamped on top of the engine near where the fuel line goes into the carb. I don't think it's a serial #, but what is it?

stamped_number.jpg
 
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