Logo
FULL SITE MENU

130 HP Gauges/lights

N

NSDON

Regular Contributor
Engine serial number BEBE1001155, which I am told is a 1999, under my throttle on the console are 2 red lights, what are they for?

I don't believe they are Boston Whaler lights, I have a 1986 Outrage 18.

Thanks.

Don
 
NSDON said:
Engine serial number BEBE1001155, which I am told is a 1999, under my throttle on the console are 2 red lights, what are they for?

I don't believe they are Boston Whaler lights, I have a 1986 Outrage 18.

Thanks.

Don
Click to expand...

look under console and see where the wires of the lights go to also a pic would help!
 
ok one is a alt light the other is check engine light i have a later model but here is what happens when you turn on key you should hear a beep beep and one light should go out should be the top one and the bottom light is alt and when you start engine this one goes out! hope this helps.
 
I have 2 lights by the key switch which I think are the ones you refer to, these are separate from those 2.
 
only thing i can think of is one for overheat and one for oil pressure which is usually green and stays lite when engine is running these two lights are above my key switch and are very small leds, go to the honda website and go to parts then key switches and warning lights, do these lights come on when key is turned on,if not maybe they were replaced.
 
i have them on my mtr when you turn the key on both come on then you hear the fuel pump pressurerises the system then the one red light goes off . then you turn the key to start position.
 
I have 2 lights by the key switch which I think are the ones you refer to, these are separate from those 2.
Click to expand...
There are two different types of Honda keyswitch, ones with all four lights on the panel with the key and a two light keyswitch which has just the small oil pressure (green) and overheat (red) lights on the same panel as the key. Then there will be this second small light panel which has the alternator light (which goes out when you start the engine) and the check engine light.
If your red lights don't come on then either they're not connected or the bulbs are blown - which mine where when I got the boat. I found it difficult to find replacement bulbs so in the end I replaced the fittings with leds.... much better.
My black 'plate' had also corroded so I made a new one from a piece of black perspex.
 
Last edited:
I should have added to ^ that you have the two light keyswitch and those two red lights should be working. If it were mine I'd be sorting out that interesting series of panels in your picture ;)
 
BTW, my boat is a 1986 Boston Whaler Outrage 18 with a 1999 130HO Honda on it, installed in 2001. I've owned it since fall 2017.

OK, after hooking up my batteries I did some checking and the key on turns on :
1. a red and a green light by the key switch, they come on and go off before you start the motor. Maybe the green is oil pressure and the red an overheat light?
2. The 2 red lights below the shifter. One goes out after a bit, the other stays on (and likely goes out after the motor starts). Maybe an alternator light (which goes out when it starts) and the other a check engine light?

I still have the boat in my garage changing out the rub rail, fuel lines, adding a GPS, adding a water proof switch panel with circuit breakers, maybe a horn. Ever see what a 1986 rubber fuel line looks like 32 years later?

The boat had twin 70 evinrudes from factory and the Honda was added in 2001.

Another electrical question, there is what looks like an original 1986 red push button which has 2 connections only on the back. The wires hooked to them are both a lime green and an 8 or 10 gauge. What could this button be for? Its like a horn button, you push it in and it springs back. What would need such a heavy gauge and a push button? Maybe a main power emergency kill switch?

There is a nest of wires under the dash, looks like some from the evinrudes were just left there. Its going to take some time to figure all this out and I'd like to get the boat in the water soon.

Thanks,
Don
 
Just a guess on the big button....

If each of the Evinrudes had their own battery, it might have been an emergency "jump" from one battery to the other, if one is dead.

I doubt if it is and emergency cutoff. A cutoff would not need that big of a gauge of cable.

If you can trace one of the wires to the battery and the other to a location that might have been a second battery, then that is probably what it is.

As a side note, you can download an owner's manual from Honda for free, that will give you more info on the various warning lights.

It probably also has a wiring diagram for the engine and wiring harness to help in your tracing of wires. https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/31ZW5600.pdf

Mike
 
hondadude said:
Just a guess on the big button....

If each of the Evinrudes had their own battery, it might have been an emergency "jump" from one battery to the other, if one is dead.

I doubt if it is and emergency cutoff. A cutoff would not need that big of a gauge of cable.

If you can trace one of the wires to the battery and the other to a location that might have been a second battery, then that is probably what it is.

As a side note, you can download an owner's manual from Honda for free, that will give you more info on the various warning lights.

It probably also has a wiring diagram for the engine and wiring harness to help in your tracing of wires. https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/manuals/31ZW5600.pdf

Mike
Click to expand...

I have 2 batteries, one is only wired directly to the other, no other connections to battery 2. Additional wires on battery one operate a bilge pump plus there is a green wire to each post from the red button. I need to do some tracing to see where these green wires go before connecting to the battery.

I also have a main power disconnect switch mounted on the stern inboard on the starboard side. These green wires bypass that switch but I don't see what they power since I have no power to the outboard when the main power switch is switched off.

Time to do some crawling around tracing wiring.

Thanks for the help.

Don
 
Having completely re-wired two old 25-foot cabin boats in my later years, my advice is to rewire it all if you want to minimize electrical problems. 32 year old wiring on a boat cannot be trusted, even if it "looks" good.

Completely remove any wires that are disconnected. Get several spools of 14 gauge TINNED marine wire in different colors. (West Marine or Jamestown Distributors) You may need some 10 or 12 gauge, too, in black and red spools. Then get a large box of quality shrink-wrap-type connectors - butt connectors, eye and U connectors in a variety of sizes. Permanently label every wire. I use those round labeling disks on a string you can get at most any hardware store. Whenever you use the shrink-wrap connectors, also dab a couple of drops of liquid electrical tape at the end of the shrink wrap to make sure it is completely sealed. Replace the fuse panel. Use distribution buses where ever practical. Once you go through that process, you will know every wire on the boat what it does, and where to look immediately if you have an issue. Be liberal with using tie downs and wire wraps. Wire up your batteries on a master selector switch, or cut-off switch, so when that is turned off, everything is turned off except the bilge pump.

Back to fuse panel - make sure that each of the fuses is properly match for its load.

Just my two-cents worth.
 
Back
Top