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BRP Evinrude Dark Blue Metalic Spray Paint - How long to fully harden?

K

Klink

Regular Contributor
I painted a 1990 70hp Evinrude with BRP 777174 Dark Blue Metalic spray paint, I degreased it a few times, and finally cleaned with denatured alcohol, and dusted it with one coat of Zinc Chromate, then painted with 3 coats of the BRP paint. About 15 hours later it was still not fully hardened, it was dry, but I could scratch it off. I put it out in the sun for 6 hours today. I'm up to about 30 hours. How long does it take for it to fully harden normally. I'm in Florida in temperature in the 80's during the day and in the 60's at night. There has been no rain.
 
That's now 4 whole days and some parts of the engine are still not fully hardened.

I painted the gearcase with automotive paint 2 days earlier and the paint was rock hard two days ago.
 
Well, the paint finally dried on all the parts after 3 weeks.

I am painting the cowling now, and I have to spray it in spurts or else it spits drops into the paint job. I've pretty much figured that part out. With the cowling, I am painting it outside on a stand, then carrying the stand inside to dry in an air conditioned room, no humidity and 80 degrees. I gave it a coat, brought it in for 20 minutes. Took it out and gave it a second coat and brought in for 45 minutes. Gave it a third coat and a fourth coat, and I am out of paint, but the job is done.

The paint itself is beautiful, has a lot of metallic in it, but the paint delivery system is mickey mouse, the spray pattern is only about 2" wide and it sprays in spots instead of laying the paint down evenly, and like I said it spits every so often.

I'm going to a big shopping center on Sunday with a good size piece that I painted, to see what car paint matches it, for it's too late for me, but for others that need this color. Marinegine.com shows the paint as unavailable, discontinued. Anyhow, because of the spray head, if I could go back in time and do it all over again, I would use Dupli-Color automotive paint because of their superior spray head and their paint will be fresher.
 
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12 hours since painting the cowl and it is drying uneven, some parts are dry and rough finish like the metal flake look is sand, and other parts are smooth but not hard dry yet. No one can say I didn't give these cans a thorough test. This time I had/have it drying indoors in perfect conditions, the air conditioning at 80 degrees with no humidity.

I figured out that the occasional spitting out of the can comes from my tight on the finger latex gloves touching the spray pattern (my fingers are not big or fat). The culprit is the spray head, it is too short, cheap old school. The Dupli-Color spray heads are almost twice as long/high, it is near impossible to touch the spray pattern with the Dupli-Color, it is hard not to touch the spray pattern with the BRP. More importantly, as I used the spray I noticed that as you spray it continuously, it sprays in spurts normal, light, normal, light, on off on off on off, instead of a continuous even pattern. It therefore leaves circles as it goes along, like if someone just sprayed in one repair spot. It looks like one color camouflage.

I used four different cans for the job. Don't buy this paint.
 
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LOL, my 14 year old son told me the same thing 15 minutes ago. Excellent, thanks. That solves that problem, but the rest of the problems with the paint is too much. If I were to do it again, I would not use this BRP paint, they are not making it anymore and what is out there is likely like mine, expired.
 
The paint on the fiberglass cowling never fully hardened, it's been like 4 months and I can still scratch the paint with my nails. What do I do now, sand it off or just apply a paint remover and start over again?
 
Sounds like that. But before you do that, take it to an auto paint store and have them color match it. They can supply it in a can, or can put it in a rattle can for you.
 
It was easy to strip the paint, so I thought I'd give another can a shot. I did not use primer this time figuring that may have been the problem, due to incompatibility.
I applied the last can of Evinrude paint, a full can that I had not used yet. That was one week ago. The paint never fully dried inside in perfect conditions. I can sctrath the paint with my nails. I requested a refund from the supplier.

Marinegines.com listed the paint as no longer available, I should have listened to them and gone another route. Instead I went around and found someone who had it in stock. Big mistake. I'll take the painted cowling to an auto paint store to match as fdrgator suggests.
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I do lots of outboard painting, just did a 150 Merc. If its black, like Mercury, I use an acrylic spray can, like Rustoleum semi gloss black. Let dry, but dont need to be fussy. Then I use a Nason clearcoat and activate according to instructions, using my spray gun (Devilbiss JGA 502), its about 60 yearsView attachment 19018View attachment 19019 old. Final finish is dry overnight at 60 degrees F. The outcome is not only more durable than OEM finish, but dramatically more beautiful. For Yamaha, OMC, and other colors, whether they are solid or metallic, or faded.......just bring a part you need to match and the automotive body supply store will scope it and match you perfectly. Do a base clear.....just like I do the Mercury blacks. Your base mix can be any acrylic, or automotive basecoat, then top with a good quality activated clear like Nason. Here is an old Johnson I did last year after a powerhead overhaul and total restore. Decals are original but I "scotch brited" over them with water and a medium grit, then clear coated overall (with Nason) to protect them and give a nice gloss.
 
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Photos for above.
 

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Sorry the photos are not good quality, but you get the idea. Whatever paint you use, it can even be an alkyd enamel, but let the alkyd dry very well, use an epoxy clear as the topcoat. Nason has treated me very well. For what you spend on these "rattle cans", a spray gun is a much better investment. Then you are in full control and can buy whatever color and type of paint you want. The color coat itself, is quite thin, so you are actually using less of the "expensive" part of the process. The clear can be wet sanded with 1000, 1500, or even 2000 grit paper, then compounded to get rid of any runs, bugs, lint, or other imperfections. Two moderate to heavy coats of clear epoxy will last for a lifetime. Just remember, if the base is original finish and you just want a protective clear, use a "scotch brite" to dull the finish and give the clear coat something to adhere nicely to. You are ready to assemble in a warm overnight dry. Fully cured in about 48 hours.
 
With regard to primer, you can get a nice quality rattle can primer that will dry quickly and work under any color coat except acrylic lacquer. Acrylic lacquer has fallen from favor with the epoxies of today, but if you prime with an acrylic lacquer primer, you need to make sure you will not lift the old remnants of paint. Problem is, lacquer is not a good finish for oxidation or rust prevention. A primer, sealer is your best choice and available at your auto body supply store. I like Transtar Autobody Technologies Inc. # 4603 2 in 1 primer. Works on metal, plastic, and fiberglass. I use it when I refinish aluminum alloy wheels too.
 
I have a 2 hp compressor with a Sears twin cyl single stage pump. Built it when I was 17 years old. I run 160 psi max pressure. I have used it for 45 years, painting, sandblasting, and running all my air tools. If you are only painting you can get by real simple and cheap. Make sure to get an oilless unit and keep the moisture drained, then you won't need an air purifier between the compressor and your gun. There are good options for used compressors too. They are so handy for cleaning parts as well as the wife's vacuum.
 
I only had to do the cowling, so I looked for the closest match I could find in Dupli-Color, went Advance Auto, Bennett Auto, Autozone, O'Reilly (they are within a 6 block area on the same road). At OReilly’s I found the last can of Ford Twilight Blue Metalic BFM0294, in the sun the cap looked identical to the cowling, as close as you will ever get. The only difference is the metallic flakes are smaller size. I sanded the BRP paint on the cowling with 600 grit wet or dry and dish soap water and cleaned it with Isopropyl alcohol 90% and painted it. I did this to take advantage of the blue base so the 8oz Dupli-color would finish the job. I gave it three coats to use the whole can, and it dried quick. The paint held fine.
 
Excellent. A lot of work and struggle, now covered over. Without a clear it should not be as durable but keep it covered up or stored under a canopy when not in use, right? The only trouble with rattle can paint is that it is not activated.....in other words, an epoxy. That makes it more submissive to UV and the elements of nature. When I restore an older outboard, in order to protect the original finish and decals, I scotch brite or wet sand lightly to etch the surface, then apply the epoxy clear. It retains the original.....imperfect "used" look, but protects what is left and puts a nice, "shine" to it. If any light abrasion or chemicals, etc.......even bird poop, get on the finish, it will not stain and can be easily rubbed out. Seems like the sun is stronger these days with more affect on things......I am convinced after over 50 years of painting, everything from bikes to cars, equipment, and even houses, that either paints are getting worse, or UV is getting stronger.......and I mostly believe the latter.
 
I love doing the painting jobs around the house. Choosing the right spray paint is a pain. You can't even rely on the old concept that the more expensive one is, the better one. I found https://trimthatweed.com/best-spray-paint/ very useful. I advise a lot of research before buying as a mistake can lead to ruining your stuff. I used to paint plastic items in the past. I had to bin a couple of things because of low-quality paint.But on the other hand, I destroyed more stuff before my technique has improved. I used to start the job before checking online how it's best done.
 
Spraying paint is much faster than painting. This applies to both paints and glazes. Painting with a brush is very time-consuming, especially on a railing with many corners. But for the color, I had bought from Tools&Goods paint, but I thought that this takes more time, and I decided to do this with a spray that is faster and dries in a short time. Such paint spray systems are straightforward to use and are suitable for almost all colors. They are easy to clean. What is more convenient for you to paint with paint or spray that, if it gets dirty, can be wiped and remains clean?
 
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