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2001 johnson 115 two stroke surging

Avolnek

New member
Hey guys, i have a 2001 johnson 115 two stroke that is surging at higher rpms.

a bit of a back story, we bought the boat in the fall of last year, didn't get to use in the big motor a whole lot... Late in the year my father thought he was doing me a favor and topped the fuel tank off against my recommendations... I did add stabil and seafoam once home but not sure how well i agitated it.

Once on the water this year playing with the big motor I would have it trimmed all the way down/in and she would launch out of the hole great. once up on plane i couldn't trim very far out without having what i felt was the prop blowing out. It felt like the engine surging and quite possibly it could have been both now that i'm thinking about it. As i'm typing this there were times where when itd happen you could just feel a bit of a slow down vs other times itd about through you into the dash...

Thinking i had a prop problem i ordered a new turning point 4 blade aluminum 13.5x17 prop to replace the 12.75x17 solas which was on the older side it appeared...

The new prop definitely gave me the traction in the water and the ability to lift the bow which i couldn't do with the previous prop...

BUT..... the surging became much more pronounced... right around 4000 and up in rpm's it would surge. even in neutral throttling up to 4000 ish there was 5-600 rpm deviation in the tach... Sometimes the boat would power through and i could get up to the 6000 rpm range but it'd still surge and drop me back down...

I have no fuel water separator (currently at least). I do have a 9.9 yamaha kicker on the back the boat (2001 lund 1700 fisherman) plumbed into what i believe would be the "reserve" line down to my tank. My understanding is there are two lines out of the tank that normally go to a fuel switch, which the PO pulled one of the lines from the switch and plumbed over to the kicker...

The bulb on the main engine with the surging has also never gotten hard. it fills up with fuel but i never feel that it is hard like any of the other bulbs ive ever dealt with...

My question for you guys is... where would you begin to look? I have pulled the plugs, they are all the same condition, white ish brown color but maybe a bit damp... in line fuel filter is clean... I will be pulling a couple pints of fuel out to check it here shortly to see what i have there...

Is there a method to check coils, stator and power pack? does this sound more fuel related or spark related?

any common problems with this era to look for?

Any other thoughts?
 
If you have someone riding with you they could pump the bulb while the problem is occurring to see if it makes a difference. Just momentarily as that doesn't stimulate the fuel pump to pump more oil. If the motor responds I would first remove that inline fuel filter (I believe you said you had one). Those can be restrictive & too small to do much good anyway. You may need to replace your line & primer bulb depending on where the line was cut?

Dan in TN
 
I see the fluctuation in RPMs even in neutral. I did try squeezing it during that with no obvious change.

I did just pump out some fuel over my lunch. i found that with the bulb laying flat it doesnt want to work as it should and lets the fuel drain back down. if i hold it vertical it holds the prime no problem.

The fuel i extracted didn't seem to be excessively dirty nor did it appear to have any water in it.

None of the fuel lines were cut to add the kicker. what it appears is there are two pickups in the tank than ran to a selector switch. one for the main and one for reserve. Looking at it closer during lunch, the reserve line was pulled from the switch and has a barb next to where the original one came out that was controlled by the switch. thus making it so each line goes straight to the tank with the main engine be plumbed to what i believe to be the reserve line.

I am beginning to feel as if its not a fuel issue and more electronic with how quickly it blips. I'm thinking if it were a carb issue itd be consistently problematic throughout the rpm band... I do however need to pluck the high speed jets and check them yet...
 
Inline fuel filters are not good for outboards. Usually too small & restrictive. Not saying it's your problem today, but will be down the road. Need to get rid of it now. Hard to say if it is fuel or ignition at this point. Checking HS Jets would be good. If it's pack related on this engine can be hard to nail down. You have to have Champion QL78YC spark plugs in this motor or it will run irratic. No NGK or other brands.
Fuel bulbs always check better when held vertical. The ball valves just seat better.

Dan in TN
 
Well... i do have NGK brand in there... Maybe i will swap em out and see what happens there...

going to replace the fuel bulb primer as well as the lines attached as currently there is one with just a zip tie on it... likley not the source of the problem but cheap easy fix and it will make me feel better none the less.

I wish there was an easy to test the power pack...

I did a stator on my last boat which had a 1995 135hp rude on it... wasnt hard but wasn't fun neither... $$ checking coils, stator and replacing with champion brand plugs will be my next step...
 
Well no maybe on changing spark plugs. They have to be Champions for these OIS ignition motors. Might be your only problem, but it is a problem. When you change fuel ones please put an OEM fuel line on. Merc, BRP, Yamaha all have good quality. I don't know of a single after market that is good. No inline fuel filter. If you want a fuel filter put on a water separator. That can be Sierra. Just met thoughts on the subject.
 
Okay guys, replaced primer bulb, and installed spec spark plugs. Same issue still. Tried swapping fuel line to the line my kicker is on and still same problem. Seems to happen more at quick increases of throttole. No help with someone pumping bulb. Once up to speed for a while I ran at 5200 rpm for quite a while with no issue till stopping and starting again. Also when issue was happening I had the cowl off and it sounded like it was firing internally so makes me think ingnition side... What you guys think?
 
looking over some of the bench tests i took and i came up with the following for the coil packs

Top Port
little post to ground - .2 ohm
big post to ground - 275

Bot Port
little post to ground - .2 ohm
big post to ground - 276

Top Star
little post to ground - .2 ohm
big post to ground - 244

Bot Star
little post to ground - .2 ohm
big post to ground - 279

I cannot for the life of me find what the actual resistance should be and wondering if the top starboard side might be an issue. its only 10% difference from the others... but maybe thats enough to screw it up...
 
Hey guys, so i replaced the power pack, wires, optical sensor and the coils. The problem of surging has been cured. I truly feel it was the power pack with the coils close to failing as well.

I however now seem to have an issue with too low of an idle in gear. I dont recall exactly what i seen but i believe it was 4-500 rpm in forward.

I cannot seem to attach a photo but the low idle timing pin is maxed out to the far starboard side or the + side of the adjuster...

any thoughts?
 
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