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Honda bf130 valve adjustment questions

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92wahoo

Member
Hello, hoping someone can confirm the proper sequence to adjust valves on a bf130. The Manual is a bit confusing. Manual says to go to "T"for TDC to adjust #1 then rotate clock ways to #2 and adjust, and then to 3 & 4 but after 2 is #4 and then #3???

So the pulley goes "T for 1, then 2, then 4, then 3?
 
No 1 TDC on the compresion stroke the fireing order 1243. make sure you have the marks on crankshaft lined up correctly it is on the black cover on the bottom and one on the pulley the T mark is on the cam pulley
 
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The important thing is not the sequence. You can adjust the valves in any order that you want. They give you that sequence "guideline" to help you get through the process as quickly as possible.

But, the important thing is that you adjust the valve clearance, or "lash" as it's sometimes called, with the valve completely closed. And, when the engine is at TDC or Top Dead Center of the COMPRESSION stroke, both the intake and the exhaust valves are fully and reliably closed. Having the valves fully closed will result in the rocker arm not touching the valve stem. You will be able to wiggle it a bit with your fingers as there is no contact between the rocker and stem and, thus, the clearance will be at it's maximum between the two. This is the position you will want each valve to be in before beginning adjustment.

It's that simple.

So, if the sequence instructions have you confused or, if you step away from the job for a moment and forget your place when you get back, just know that if you make sure the valve you're working on is completely closed, you can safely obtain a good adjustment.

Although, I would recommend marking each one after you have it adjusted to your satisfaction. That way, if you do get a bit mixed up, you will know which ones are done and which ones still need adjusting. That way, you are sure to get them all and not miss any.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the guidance, I pulled the valve cover and double checked the valve clearances this morning. I made sure intakes were at 0.25mm and exhaust at 0.30mm. I put a stick in the spark plug opening on all cylinders which was the same depth once the timing marks for each cylinder was set to adjust valves. I did a cold motor compression test and 1,2, & 4 all read between 195 & 205. #3 is at 107 and about the same with a drop of oil in the cylinder? I think I have a issue with the valve seat or valve guide. :(

I will do another compression test with the engine at operating temperature to compare after valves cover silicone cures.

I am running 10w30 and wonder if thicker oil or any additives might help?
 
When I do the compression test how do I measure for 300 rpm? I cranked the engine 10 or 11 times to come up with the results I got but I do not know how to measure for 300 rpm. Am I to watch the rpm guage on the dash while cranking the motor? I'll look for the rpm' when I do the warm test.
 
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You don't need to perform another compression test. You have already proven that 3 of the cylinders on that engine are "tip top" and that cylinder #3 has a problem.

What is needed now is to perform a cylinder LEAK DOWN test on that cylinder to pinpoint where it is losing compression. Please google leakdown test and familiarize yourself with the test and what it can tell you. Many you tube videos to refer to as well.
 
There is a special tool for doing the leak down test. It is not terribly expensive if you get one at Harbor Freight or discount online tool store. You don't need the pricey Snap On or Mac versions. The cheap one is good enough to tell you what you need to know about what's going on with #3.
 
I bought the Harbor freight leak tester and on a cold motor the results are below. Wondering if I should try some Lucas fuel system cleaner since all 4 cylinders are firing?

#1 was about 10%
#2 was about 10-15%
#3 was about 20-25%
#4 was 10-15%
 
If you have access to Yamaha Ring Free, it performs miracles on carbon buildup. Drain the vapor separator and use a small fuel tank to create a concentrated mixture.

Hopefully, that will improved things. It seems odd that the leak downs are that high, even in the cylinders with good compression.

It is also possible that you have a cracked head. The #2 and/or #3 cylinder is where the problem generally occurs on these models. The crack may allow water to enter the combustion chamber. After you run it, can you see any water droplets on #3 spark plug?

Mike

Mike
 
I'll look for the Yamaha Ring Free, it's my first time doing a leak down test and this Harbor Freight tool is touchy. Had to keep setting the regulator to get it to zero before hooking up to the spark plug hose. I'll need to pull the plug and check for water after I run it again. Thanks Hondadude & jgmo for the help!
 
I ran the motor and then checked plugs for signs of water, no water detected, plugs looked good, motor ran well, compression test was better when warm. #1 was 205, #2 & #4 were about 195 and #3 was about 122. I also did a leak down and air in #3 sounds like it's going past exhaust valve so hoping the Yamaha Ring Free helps. Just glad there is no water in the combustion chamber or motor oil.
 
If I use the Yamaha Ring Free in a concentrated amount just enough to fill the fuel vapor seperator for a quick shock what is the mixture. Seperator bowl is maybe a few cups capacity? Searching on line I read Yamaha Ring Free is not recommended for 4 strokes and once used the oil should be changed. Anyone have any info on how best to proceed?
 
I recommended draining the vapor separator, so that you do not have to run it so long to get the mixture through the system.

I would not use Ring Free straight in the vapor separator. It may not be good for the engine.

I have not heard of problems with 4 strokes. I have used it successfully, many times. Just don't overdo it.

Yes, it is recommended when finished, to change the engine oil, since the oil will be diluted with the ring free and possibly some of the contaminates that are broken loose.

Just make a concentrated mixture in a small fuel tank....3 gallons will do.

Run the engine at slightly above idle until the mixture gets through the system...at that point run the engine for 10 or 15 minutes. Then shut it off and let it sit for an hour or so. Then run it at a higher speed until the motor gets to temperature and blows some of the carbon out.

Then slow the engine down and run it again for 10 minutes or so. Shut it off, let it sit for another hour of so.....then run it again at higher speed, as above.

I would do that for two or three times, then recheck the compression to see if there is any change.

If you can do this with the motor under a load, it makes it better....especially when you blow it out.....but it can be done on a hose in neutral. Just make sure you give the engine plenty of water

I have done it both ways with success.

Others may do it differently but this works for me.

I am always open for others to jump in and describe their method.

Mike
 
92wahoo,
No way hondadude would steer you wrong.

However, if the idea of using a 2 stroke additive in your 130 worries you, that's completely understandable.

There are many other tried and true products available for de-carbonizing 4 cycle engines. G.M. Top End Cleaner is one many mechanics swear by. Available at any Chevy, Buick, Cadillac, GMC and Hummer dealers.

BG, famous for their EXCELLENT fuel system cleaning product, 44K, also offers EPR (Engine Performance Restorer) to be used in the crankcase and immediately drained when the service is complete.
They will ALL damage an engine if not used properly.
BG products are available at Amazon.

But if you follow hondadude's instructions with the Ring Free, I'm positive you and your outboard will be fine.
 
So I went ahead and pulled the head which looks fine but I am getting it checked out by a local machine shop who will hopefully do a valve job and check the deck / resurface if needed. I called a Honda expert from Florida that told me to check for cracks in the water jacket chamber where the webbing is and there I found cracks on the two areas between cylinders 2 & 3 which I plan to have welded up. I am thinking the cracks allowed the head torque to flex along the outer edge of the head that in turn allowed the head gasket to fail. No water in oil and cylinders and Pistons look good. Hope to have her up and running in 2-3 weeks.
 
The cracks are in the water jacket of the block and not the head, the cracks are between the water jacket and the exhaust chamber.
 
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I had the block welded this morning and it looks really good, now just waiting for the machine shop to go through the head and complete the valve job and for gaskets & other replacement goodies to arrive from Boats.net.
 
I am still trying to find out if the 10 turn to torque bolts need to be replaced or if I can reuse them. Do they stretch and need to be replaced after they have been used?
 
If your torque specs say something like:
"Torque to xx lb. ft. Then continue to tighten xx degrees"

Then you have TTY or Torque To Yield bolts and they MUST be renewed as it is likely they have been tightened into the "plastic" zone.
Meaning they are no longer "elastic" but have been stretched.

If you are in any doubt whatsoever you should replace them. After all the work you've put into getting that baby up and turning, it would be a darn shame if you had to go back in because of head bolt failure.

And. If more than one were to fail, it could cause the head or even the block deck to become warped before you knew there was a problem.

Falls under the heading CHEAP INSURANCE.

I hope she starts and runs like BUTTAH!
 
Happy Fathers Day weekend! I installed the rebuilt head and am glad I took it in to the machine shop as it was corroded along some of the water jacket passages so the machine shop welded it and resurfaced the deck. Took me a while to get gas to the injectors however she is running again. I did a cold leak down test that looked good and a warm compression test after it ran with ear muffs for 15 minutes. Lowest cylinder was #3 again at 190lbs but I did not hold throttle wide open so it might actually be higher. I plan to re adjust valves tomorrow when it's cold as I hear some tapping at idle. Thanks everyone for your help!
 
Turns out my fuel delivery issue and rocker noise was the arm that drives the fuel pump that is mounted on the valve cover needed to be swung back into position. Now she really purrs and is quiet :)
 
That is GREAT news 92wahoo!

Sounds sweet even at this distance.

Congratulations and Happy Father's Day!
 
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