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kamd300a exhaust elbow leaking raw water in air chamber

Didn't you already clean the heat exchanger and intercooler last season? Did you acid wash them or how did you clean them? also is their any oil cooler or fuel cooler in the raw water system that hasn't been cleaned? Also did you clean the air side of the intercooler or just the salt water side?
 
Yes cleaned both sides of the inner cooler but did it manually and didn't think it got all scale off. Used an acid cleaner this time and it seemed to work this time. I don't have an oil cooler or fuel cooler.
Put a 50/50 mix of the Fleet ethyl glycol in today, it has the nitrite to guard against wet sleeve liner breakdown and cavitation. I found this out when i was thinking of running without any coolant till October. Not realizing that water alone can cause severe corrosion in your engine. The temp did come back up a few degrees once i put the coolant back in.
In reading the manual for my engine it says that the stats begin opening at 81 C or 177.8 F and fully open at 94 C or 201.2 F does that mean that its normal to run close to 200 deg??
 
The volvos I have run have all been in the low to mid 180's at cruise and maybe 190 or a bit more at high rpms. I think you should expect to see around 185 or so at cruise, with maybe close to 200 at sustained WOT.

Interesting thought - if you have been getting to 200+ at times why hasn't your overtemp alarm gone off? It must trigger around that temp somewhere. Have you used a infrared heat gun to shoot the temps around the engine cooling system? You can pick one up for just a few $'s and it will help you track down what is happening as well as check that your temp gauge/sender is accurate. This is what we do with a lot of cooling system problems as you can check things like both ends of the heat exchanger to see how it is working or either side of the thermostats to make sure they are opening etc.
 
Yes, last year when my fresh water pump started leaking the alarm went off at 225deg. That is a good idea with the infrared gun, i do have one. I just got a boost gauge and will check out boost. I have to find a spot on my manifold to attach. When you really get into it there are so many things that can cause the hi temp. issue. I hope i don't have cavitation at the fresh water pump vane.
 
When you do the infrared gun checks do each end of the aftercooler, then each end of the heat exchanger, plus each end of the thermostat housing (at the hoses if any) then the outside metal of the exhaust elbow. Also check your gauge accuracy vs the temp at the temperature sender fitting if you haven't already. Write them all down for future reference. also make sure that you shoot the temps at each end of the oil cooler. Also check the expansion bottle temp.
 
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I've inserted a photo of the temp gauge at 3200 RPMs, looking at the readings from 150 to 200 where would you say the needle is at? My guess would be about 190-195. IMG_5588.jpg I will take all readings with the gun tomorrow.I don't have a fitting on my manifold to fit the boost gauge. I cannot find a spot for it to be attached? Any ideas?
 
Well after trying to take readings with the infrared gun, i am still getting really close to the 200 mark. I don't know what else to check?? I am getting ready to pull the boat and disassemble the fresh water pump. Can the impeller or vane be installed inside out on this pump? I changed the seal on it last season and can't remember if it mattered whether it was on one way or the other?
 
What were the input and output readings across all the coolers? Especially the Heat Exchanger? Impeller are usually able to go in both ways but some do have a sealing cap that fits over the centre hole on the outer wear plate side. Are the wear plates smooth and not scored?
 
OK, just took temp readings but first i think your thinking that i was talking about the raw water pump on the last reply. But i was actually speaking of the fresh water pump. There are no wear plates on the fresh main engine water pump. But after i asked about weather the impeller could have been installed incorrectly ie inside out, i looked at the manual again and it can't be installed in backwards, just that the tolerances were critical. I think it said 25 mm, 5 over or under was tolerable measuring with a straight edge across the housing. So back to temps, running at 190 0n the temp gauge the there housing read 150, the expansion tank 147, the heat exchanger 150 in 170 out, inner cooler 250 out and the temp out of the turbo 450 and 320 in. What do you think after temp readings?
 
If the thermostat housing is reading 150 isn't that where the temperature sender is mounted? I would have expected that reading to match the gauge reading pretty closely. Can you identify the temp sender and shoot the temp directly on the sender to confirm it's accuracy?
Those numbers look mostly OK except the "Inter cooler 250 out" which seems really strange. Normally the inter cooler is the first item in the raw water flow (can you confirm) and there is no way it should be reading 250 out. It should be a few degrees above the sea water temp. The 170 into the heat exchanger should be close to your real coolant temp that the gauge is measuring. I don't think you can have 190 at the sender unit and have only 170 into the heat exchanger as the heat exchanger is after the temp sender so should if anything maybe be hotter. Did you have the engine up at 190 on the gauge for a few minutes so that all the hoses etc you were shooting would get right up to running temps? Based on what you have measured I would be rechecking the sender and gauge accuracy. Also check the IR thermometer accuracy by boiling some water in a pot with a spoon or similar in it then shoot the spoon as you remove it from the water. Should be close to 100 deg C.
 
Hmmm, I couldn't keep it running any longer at those temps as the gauge was reading a good 200 this morning and that was only after a few minutes, so the problem is getting worse. Could there be a problem with the muffler?? Maybe be an obstruction or full of water? I never suspected it before.
 
Did you manage to confirm that the temp at the temp sender unit is the same as on the gauge? All the temps you shot with the IR look pretty good on the engine so the gauge accuracy needs to be absolutely confirmed? A blocked exhaust could cause your temps if they are really high. It wouldn't be a common issue though.
 
Can you shoot the in and out on the air side of the after cooler and if possible also the water side in & out. Don't worry if it is a problem to shoot them as this probably isn't the issue, but would be good to see how it is performing if possible.
 
Since last posting, i have cleaned out the fresh water side of the engine with Fleetguard internal cooling system restore and it has worked really well removing scale. However since I've found that my temp sensor is giving me bad resistance readings. Can you get a hold of the resistance chart that volvo uses for their temp sensors. My part number for the sensor is 862154. i found two different charts but i don't think they are what volvo uses. I checked my temp gauge and it good. I am getting a reading of .457 ohms at 60 deg. on the sensor. What made me finally get the reading off of the thermostat housing and compare it to the gauge reading again was that i am running out of things to check. I am not getting anything over 180 deg. when the gauge is reading 195 deg. while cruising at 3200 rpms
 
I was wondering how you were getting on. So your actual temps seem fine. Just a sender fault now? Unfortunately I don't think you can get a chart for most Volvo sensors. They just want you to pay $200 for a $20 part because you can't find out what the VDO etc equivalent is. You might be able to work it out by looking at the gauge though if it has any non-Volvo ID numbers on it. There may be a chart for the gauge which you can use to find an aftermarket sender to match.
At least for now you know that when the gauge says 195 you are at 180 and running fine. Only trouble now will be that the alarm will kick in when your temps are still OK if you are running hard.
 
Well i am going to order the sensor anyway the price is 90.00, I also found the large connector going to the EDC all corroded when i was trying to get the sensor out. Since have cleaned it up best i could with WD40. Should be ok now as they are stainless pins.
 
Let me know how you get on. $90 is not bad compared to some Volvo sensors I have seen. Good to get the connector cleaned up as well. Will be fantastic if the sensor sorts it out. I am chasing an overheat on a Honda outboard at the moment and heading out tomorrow with the Infrared gun to see what I can prove.
 
Since I posted last back in June, I have got a new turbo charger installed and found that the cartridge where the oil ports are was cracked and repaired and sold as new. Didn't do a good job on the repair, so he sent me a replacement cartridge and that one looks the same so I'm not changing it. Got my money back and installed the old turbo back. Back to square one. I am looking now to find another one other than going with volvo who doesn't make them they buy them from several different makers. Volvo wants 2700.00
Any feedback would be appreciated
 
What part of your old turbo is faulty? Is it the cartridge or the exhaust housing corrosion that they often get? I see a supposed low hours used one available here locally for USD$1300ish but used ones can be a risk. Did you get the supercharger switch sorted?
Quick check on Ebay and there are new ones from Sweden for under $1000USD.
 
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aliboy said:
What part of your old turbo is faulty? Is it the cartridge or the exhaust housing corrosion that they often get? I see a supposed low hours used one available here locally for USD$1300ish but used ones can be a risk. Did you get the supercharger switch sorted?
Quick check on Ebay and there are new ones from Sweden for under $1000USD.
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Well you can see the turbine has some wear and the housing is in bad shape also. But I have found that the ones from Sweden and other places are not exact replacements. I am talking back and forth with this one company that says it will work on my KAMD300A but the coolant tap on the turbine housing isn't 12 mm its 10mm this will not work. I am having a hard time trying to get the correct one. No the switch isn't working for some reason, I have disconnected it for the time being. Someone said that you need to get a switch with a lite incorporated in it, does that sound right.
 
The light is just to tell you the switch is on. A normal single pole, single throw on/off switch is all you need. Just break the active wire that feeds the supercharger clutch (the one from the ecm box) and put the switch in the break. Interesting why the Swedish turbo would be different? What do you see as the issue with the 10mm tap (not quite sure which part this is that you mean?)?
 
aliboy said:
The light is just to tell you the switch is on. A normal single pole, single throw on/off switch is all you need. Just break the active wire that feeds the supercharger clutch (the one from the ecm box) and put the switch in the break. Interesting why the Swedish turbo would be different? What do you see as the issue with the 10mm tap (not quite sure which part this is that you mean?)?
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This is the connection from the coolant line from the expansion tank.
 

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aliboy said:
That is just the air bleed isn't it? If so the size difference shouldn't matter I think.
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I have been hearing a hissing sound coming from the engine for some time now, i have found the area where it is coming from as you can see from the picture i have included with this post. it is a small weep hole at the bottom of the inner cooler, is this some sort of weep hole for bleeding air or what, it looks like its supposed to be there?
innercooler hole.jpeg
 
Can't think of any reason for that to be there. Is it leaking air in under vacuum and leaking air out under boost? Is there any thread in the hole to indicate that something could fit there? Wondering if it is a port for fitting a boost gauge maybe? Makes no sense to have a hole on the air side of the Inter cooler.
 
It has to be there. It is a control hole when your intercooler is leaking you find water out the hole.
when engine is running, little air is coming out totaly normal.
 
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