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2003 Honda 130 ...buy or beware

O

occh

Contributing Member
I put a deposit down on a 2003 Mako 192 with Honda 130. It supposedly does not fall into the range of the ones with cracked blocks but I am still a little skeptical. Are these good engines? Has anyone ever heard of a fuel system upgrade on this engine that needs to be done. Any info would be great
 
Post the engine serial number. I don't know anything about them, but those on this forum that do will want to know the engine number.
 
Yes, based on the frame# there shouldn't be any problems with cracked block of cylinder head.
If it has been solely used in fresh water it should be a good motor.
But if used in salt water, being 15 yrs old there could be corrosion issues.
The newer BF135 & BF150 had fewer problems than the BF130, so if you could afford one of those, that could be a better option.

Bob
 
outboard 198.jpgYou see the grooves on the exhaust port end side ,my BZBE 130 did not have these grooves in, a big improovement on the water flowoutboard 201.jpg was restricted in this area and the main reason for the head to crack mine cracked between no 1 & 2 cylinder .
 
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If you gonna do this job to change the head to the improved one with the grooves machined in if you dont expect trouble down the line mine is a 2001 model .Change all gaskets and seals includeing this one its on the pan for the gearshift HAVE A LOOK AT THE CONDITION OF IT.outboard 174.jpgThey are good motors if you look after it.
 
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Tegweni said:
View attachment 17504You see the grooves on the exhaust port end side ,my BZBE 130 did not have these grooves in, a big improovement on the water flowView attachment 17505 was restricted in this area and the main reason for the head to crack mine cracked between no 1 & 2 cylinder .
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Were these improvements made on only the newer 135 and 150 only or did they make improvements to later model 130’s like hopefully my 2003.
I am pretty sure I know the answer to this but I am just reaching I guess. Lol
 
bobmech said:
Those improvements were included in the later BF130 including your 2003 model (BZBE 1400001 onward), as seen on post #1 here
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...r-SBMA200304&highlight=BF130+cyl+head+BF130A2
so you should have no problem.
The BF135 & BF150 is a different engine design altogether.

Bob
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I am not sure if your a Honda mechanic or not but you seem real knowledgeable on these motors so at the risk of being a pain in the ass, do you happen to know if Hans if my engine hours can be obtained via the diagnostic or any other way.

Thanks
Anthony
 
The hour meter works on 12V .ignition switch ,switches it on and off, its only got 2 wires B/Y whch is + from ignition and Blk which is - dont leave your key on it will clock the hours up even if the motor is not runing.
 
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Funy i just fitted a brand new gasket and observed this gasket protrudeing out a little before the the head was torqued , i removed the head to make doubble sure . this was also noticed before i took the head off with the old gasket still in , the conclusion to this its just the way they are made in the factory.and nothing to worry about.
 
Tegweni said:
Funy i just fitted a brand new gasket and observed this gasket protrudeing out a little before the the head was torqued , i removed the head to make doubble sure . this was also noticed before i took the head off with the old gasket still in , the conclusion to this its just the way they are made in the factory.and nothing to worry about.
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That would be incorrect. They are not made that way.

"Funy i just fitted a brand new gasket and observed this gasket protrudeing out a little before the the head was torqued"

Yes the gasket should be visible. It should not be sticking out in an arc 13mm.

To the OCCH....If the engine you are looking at has this like the picture in the link I posted, stay away.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
That would be incorrect. They are not made that way.

"Funy i just fitted a brand new gasket and observed this gasket protrudeing out a little before the the head was torqued"

Yes the gasket should be visible. It should not be sticking out in an arc 13mm.

To the OCCH....If the engine you are looking at has this like the picture in the link I posted, stay away.
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I can’t get the picture to enlarge without losing clarity.
btw...I know someone posted it somewhere bu5 I can’t find it. What should the compression range should this 130be in? They are testing compression tomorrow and I want to know at what numbers I should walk away from this sale !!!

thanks Chris
 
I have some info on how to save money, if you need a new head for one of these. I just replaced the head on mine last year. After cleaning it up and replacing the head I had 210psi across all four cylinders.
 
trx125 said:
I have some info on how to save money, if you need a new head for one of these. I just replaced the head on mine last year. After cleaning it up and replacing the head I had 210psi across all four cylinders.
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Thanks, I hope I don’t though. The PSI came back a little on the low side I guess at 195PSI but it was even on all the cylinders which is good
 
If you start running YamaLube Ring Free through those engines for the next couple of tank fills, I suspect you would get even better compression.
 
chawk_man said:
If you start running YamaLube Ring Free through those engines for the next couple of tank fills, I suspect you would get even better compression.
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Do a lot of guys here use that Yami ring free? I don’t know anything about that stuff except that I use to use Yama lube in my son’s Waverunner
 
Well, I think there are several de-carboning mixtures out there. I used Sea Foam for years on all kinds of engines and carbs. But for my outboard, I've switch to Yamalube ring free based on previous discussions on this forum and especially insights offered by Hondadude and JGMO. If I recall correctly, the maintenance ratio is 1 ounce per 10 gallons of fuel. The published de-carbing mixture is 2 ounces per 10 gallons. However, I double the de-carbing to 4 ounces per 10 gallons mixed in a small 6 gallon auxiliary tank. Warm up the engine, switch to aux tank, run about a gallon through it, shut down the engine for about an hour. Re-start and warm up on regular fuel, then repeat.
 
chawk_man said:
Well, I think there are several de-carboning mixtures out there. I used Sea Foam for years on all kinds of engines and carbs. But for my outboard, I've switch to Yamalube ring free based on previous discussions on this forum and especially insights offered by Hondadude and JGMO. If I recall correctly, the maintenance ratio is 1 ounce per 10 gallons of fuel. The published de-carbing mixture is 2 ounces per 10 gallons. However, I double the de-carbing to 4 ounces per 10 gallons mixed in a small 6 gallon auxiliary tank. Warm up the engine, switch to aux tank, run about a gallon through it, shut down the engine for about an hour. Re-start and warm up on regular fuel, then repeat.
Click to expand...


is this stuff ok to use with Marine stabi
 
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