Logo
FULL SITE MENU

suitable vp manual

B

brett friel

New member
hello all recently purchased a 1994 cobalt 220.engine number:5.0fi pmda serial 4110109255
drive unit numbers:dp-c1 1 95 serial 3102158048

would the vp nc manuals work or is there a better alternative
thanks
brett
 
Brett, the OEM service manuals are typically best. Although the images are great, we have found errors in the Seloc and Clymers manuals.

Your '94 DP-C drive is one that remains in the AQ series family. Pretty hard to beat this drive system!
No Gimbal suspension system, no gimbal bearing, no rubber hub drive coupler, no thru-prop exhaust, no annual engine drive coupler alignment, single bearing PDS, etc.

What is it that you are wanting to service or to check?

This is a helpful website.
https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/default.aspx

This is your engine package.
https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7748050.aspx

You should be able to find your DP-C drive schematic here.
https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineDrivesTransmissions.aspx




.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for quick reply I have a miss and backfire under load
Will not rev over 3k manifold nuts and spark plugs are very rusty
sparkplugs are rounding off as I try to remove as well as man nuts
boat starts instantly idles well great oil press cooling is spot on
so I would like to pull engine and address spark plugs and manifolds and rusers
would the Nc manuals work
thanks
brett
 
When/if questionable, always attempt to crack bolts and spark plugs loose while the engine is warm. Also, use a 6 point wrench..... not a 12 point!
You can finish up when things cool back down.
 
RicardoMarine said:
When/if questionable, always attempt to crack bolts and spark plugs loose while the engine is warm. Also, use a 6 point wrench..... not a 12 point!
You can finish up when things cool back down.
Click to expand...

I did use six point I will send pics of how rusty it is after work
for the room I have to work with thought it would be easier
with engine out
maybe I will use my torches to heat up
brett
 
brett friel said:
I did use six point I will send pics of how rusty it is after work
for the room I have to work with thought it would be easier
with engine out
maybe I will use my torches to heat up
brett
Click to expand...

Be very careful if using Oxy/Acet to heat these areas. Concentrated heat may cause damage.
Take your time and heat a larger area and heat it slowly.
 
broke a spark plug trying to remove it i guess its engine out time.from all the reading i have done on this forum it is easier to separate at
at fwc.just wondering how many bolts there are and if there are any on very bottom of bell housing

cant seem to load pics yet
thanks
brett
 
brett friel said:
broke a spark plug trying to remove it i guess its engine out time.from all the reading i have done on this forum it is easier to separate at at fwc. just wondering how many bolts there are and if there are any on very bottom of bell housing
Click to expand...


Brett, yes...... separate the Engine from the flywheel cover.
You may also have a debris cover at the bottom of the flywheel cover that will be just FWD of the flywheel. If so, there will be 4 or 5 small screws that will need to be removed.


.
 
You may have enough room to just remove the heads and send them to the shop for plug removal, better than pulling the engine if you have the room. Just did a BB donzi with the same issue. Rusted sparkplugs and rusted head bolts.All stemming from the cockpit floor seams (3 panel) placed directly over the exaust manifolds . And water on the deck went directly onto the motor and not down the drains.You motor is a regular GM 305 ,only its painted red and not black or blue.
 
Bt Doctur said:
You may have enough room to just remove the heads and send them to the shop for plug removal, better than pulling the engine if you have the room.
Click to expand...

I would agree.

Also, just an FYI...... while we DO NOT want to use this product in potentially wet or below the water line areas, the automotive Never-Seez is great for spark plug threads.


.
 
Just a quick check with set up as listed above
do I need to pull trans from leg to pull engine
i have about six inches of room at front of engine
got a friend coming over to pull with hyab
thanks
brett
 
brett friel said:
Just a quick check with set up as listed above
do I need to pull trans from leg to pull engine?
Click to expand...

Brett, your DP-C1 is in the AQ series family.
The AQ series are main suspension fork and pivot tube geometry. The Engine, F/C and PDS are of fixed geometry.
NO Gimbal suspension system and NO universal drive shaft that needs to be pulled from the Engine's drive coupler.

You can do one of two things:

1........ (as per post #8) You can leave the Flywheel Cover installed in the transom shield, separate the Engine from the flywheel cover (don't forget the debris cover at the bottom), remove the 4 engine mount lag bolts, slide the Engine FWD enough (approx 1-1/2") for the B/W PDS splines to separate from the B/W drive coupler, and then lift the Engine out.

2........ Remove the transmission ONLY, loosen the 6 F/C clamping collar bolts, remove the 4 engine mount lag bolts, and then pull the Engine with the F/C still attached to it.
You will need at least one new rubber cushion ring (the interior ring) when going back together.


For either scenario #1 or #2, remove the 4 engine mount lag bolts leaving the front engine mounts attached to the cylinder block.



.
 
ok got engine out left fwc in place.would the pds bearing replacement and ujoint inspection be better if removed aft or could they come out form the front after removal of fly wheel cover.
great time to clean out bilge by the way.
i noticed that the charcoal paint on the fwc flaked off with corrosion, yet the lite grey volvo paint on the thru-transom
looks like new.
is there a tutorial for uploading pics cant seem to attach them
thanks for all the help
brett
 
.................................
brett friel said:
ok, got engine out.... left F/C in place. Would the pds bearing replacement and ujoint inspection be better if removed aft, or could they come out form the front after removal of fly wheel cover?
A PDS is always removed from AFT. The F/C can remain installed.
In order to remove a PDS and/or to inspect your universal shaft and bearing crosses (aka U-joints) the transmission must be removed.

See my posts in this thread.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...8-Drive-Bellows-Replacement-Aquamatic-250-270
While the OP's engine/drive is an older 6 cylinder model with a 270 drive, it uses the single bearing PDS with a pilot nose...... similar to what your DP-C1 uses.
One difference is....... your charcoal gray F/C does NOT offer a grease port. This means that your PDS bearing will be sealed. It should be an industry standard 6206-2RS..... and NOT a 6206!
Use a good German, USA, Japanese or ______ brand bearing..... and DO NOT use a BBQ Pork bearing (i.e., Chinese made)! :mad:


NOTE: you will have a shim pack directly underneath the transmission. Be sure to inventory every one of these shims so that they can all go back in.
Be sure to replace all O-rings with new O-rings!
Your drive also requires GL-5 or equivalent gear oil...... NOT 30W!

great time to clean out bilge by the way.
Yes!

i noticed that the charcoal paint on the fwc flaked off with corrosion, yet the lite grey volvo paint on the thru-transom
looks like new.
is there a tutorial for uploading pics cant seem to attach them
You can do one of several things:

.......Host your photos on a website, and then link us to them.

or......

.......Click on "Go Advanced" at the lower right area.
A new page will appear.
Scroll down and see the active page.
Click on the paper-clip icon.
Now click on the "add files" and make your selection from your PC. (you can select multiple files by holding the Ctrl key down)
Next, click on "up-load files".
When finished, click on "Done".
Next click on "preview" to see if they were uploaded correctly.
If all is OK, click on "submit reply".
Use can also Edit your posting for up to 60 minutes or so (I forget the exact time).

By the way...... large resolution photos do not work, so if they are too large, go to "tiny pic. com" and reduce the resolution.
Save the files with a new name, or add an extension to them.
Example:
photo file "engine bay photo.jpg" now becomes "engine bay photo 2.jpg" ........ and photo file "stern drive photo.jpg" now becomes "stern drive photo2.jpg".


One more notoe:
If you respond within the Quote Field like I often do (using blue colored font), you'll need to add a few characters outside of the quote field.
I use a series of "...................." just outside of the quote field at the top.



thanks for all the help
brett
Click to expand...
 
Back
Top