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Can't remove port temperature sensor. Forget about it?

P

Projectus

Contributing Member
I've determined the starboard temp sensor is stuck in the closed position.
I want to check out the port sensor, but it's stuck in there pretty good, and I'll probably have to break it to get it out. That wire can only take so much tugging.
Is there any way to test if it's still a functioning switch, while it's installed?
Would you just ignore it?
The black rubber cap appears to have swollen in the hole. It's in there good.
Thanks.
 
That one should have 2 wires on it and is more than $56....You can test with ohm meter, blk lead to engine ground and red to tan/blu disconnected from harness. If it reads its bad as it goes closed at 180 degrees and open under 180.
 
Thanks for the instructions. I just tested and did not get a reading,so I assume it's okay and will leave it alone for now.
Wow, you were right about the starboard harness with the extra alarm wire - it's almost twice as expensive.
 
I was thinking abot this - no continuity between the disconnected temp sensor wire and the block verifes the switch is open. I suppose I'd have to let the engine warm and do it again to see if it is able to close, right? (I still can't remove it for testing in the kitchen, and I have to quit tugging on it.) I'm a little worried how it became so stuck in there in the first place.
 
Can you put a heat gun (electric, not a torch) directly on the temp sensor and get it warm enough to close the circuit? That might be a safer way to test it instead of running the engine hoping you're not overheating.

KJ
 
I still can't remove it, so my only option was to let it idle for 5 minutes, then check for continuity between the lead wire and the block. When I felt like the engine had reached its normal operating temperature (my newly arrived OMC manual says 5 minutes is good), I checked for continuity - there wasn't, so I think the switch does not close when it should, and I'll rip it out and replace it. I'm sure some folks would just rip it out and forget about it, but I don't like that idea.
Thanks again for all the help.
 
The switch with 2 wires should close at 96 degrees F and the switch with one wire should close at 203 degrees F. This is from the OMC factory service manual.

I found this old thread because I'm trying to get my switches out to test them.
 
Once I figured I was probably going to replace it anyway, I pulled harder than I was comfortable with. It came out undamaged.
I remember going slow though, and grabbing low on the wires and helping it along as much as possible.
 
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