Logo

V/P 280 outdrive oil change (1978) - I've done mercs... but this... I dunno.

I'm sort of embarrassed to even axe this, but I haven't found an answer anywhere.

Drain plug is at the bottom/front. but the top level plug is where? ( I can answer that on a merc.)

Also, I know my oil checking dipstick plug is supposed to be up on the tippy top, but my plug only has a 1/4" magnetic little rod hanging down, like my dipperstick got snapped off. Thoughts?

And that would be 10w/40 auto oil, si?

Thanks for bearing with the new doppy guy.
 
.......................
Drain plug is at the bottom/front.
That is correct.
Use a hand-held impact driver to loosen it and to re-install it with NEW O-ring!


but the top level plug is where? ( I can answer that on a merc.)
There is NO "site" or "peep" port on this drive.
To check gear oil level, and with the drive fully down, use the upper-most dip stick's flat area.


Also, I know my oil checking dipstick plug is supposed to be up on the tippy top, but my plug only has a 1/4" magnetic little rod hanging down, like my dipperstick got snapped off. Thoughts?
The s/p drives were not equipped with a magnetic drain plug.
The DP drives were.


And that would be 10w/40 auto oil, si?
30W if in cold ocean water...... and 40W if in warm water (Florida for example).
 
The 280 drive has a fill port right next to the shift "rocker" arm. To drain: remove bottom plug, loosten or remove dip stick (as a vent)

To fill: Replace drain with new oring. Tip drive all the way up. Remove fill plug and and add specified amount of oil. Tip drive down and check level. You really should have a dip stick. Some years dip sticks are very difficult to read unless you "roughen" up the area from the end to the line.

I replaced my drain screw with a drain screw from an Evenrude O/B that has a allen socket head.
 
Here are a few images that will help explain several things:

As noted (not shown here), the 280 oil fill plug is located at approx 1:00 O'clock over the shift mechanism housing. This plug requires a special phenolic gasket.

You will also see the 2 different style shift detent "spring pin" locations.
The spring pin must be carefully removed and retrieved during dis assembly for eccentric piston seal replacement.

One image will explain the eccentric piston seal orientation.
 

Attachments

  • eccentric piston detent explanation .jpg
    eccentric piston detent explanation .jpg
    62.9 KB · Views: 33
  • eccentric piston detent explanation 2 .jpg
    eccentric piston detent explanation 2 .jpg
    36.7 KB · Views: 33
  • Eccentric piston seal.jpg
    Eccentric piston seal.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 28
  • eccentric piston spring pin 3 .jpg
    eccentric piston spring pin 3 .jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 33
Last edited:
I've read elsewhere that some individuals replace the VP drain plug o-ring with a blue Mercury phenolic drain plug gasket, typically used on the larger Merc O/B's. I've used these for years on my Mercury O/B's and they hold up well after several oil changes. Any thoughts on this practice??
 
I've read elsewhere that some individuals replace the VP drain plug o-ring with a blue Mercury phenolic drain plug gasket, typically used on the larger Merc O/B's. I've used these for years on my Mercury O/B's and they hold up well after several oil changes. Any thoughts on this practice??

The AQ series Volvo Penta drain plug is designed to compress the O-ring seal into a chamfered area that is just outside of the female threads.
The drain plug comes in contact with the aluminum gear case once the O-ring has been compressed.
If you replace the O-ring seal with a gasket type seal, you will be going against their intended design!

Stay with the O-ring (a new one each time) and secure the plug with a hand-held impact driver. The plug will not vibrate loose, and the O-ring will give you a perfect seal.


.
 
Dont the plug with a magneZt go in the drain hole to catch the falling metal shavings? What good would it do up top?

Exactly my question! The '78 boat is new to me, and that's how I found it - a larger screw plug on the bottom with No magnet or anything -- but a smaller plug on top with a 1/4" l magnet.

Also, the lower unit was filled with gooey gear lube. But zero water in it.

Now I see the 1:00 o'Clock fill plug -- it needs an Allen wrench.
 
...........................

Exactly my question! The '78 boat is new to me, and that's how I found it - a larger screw plug on the bottom with No magnet or anything -- but a smaller plug on top with a 1/4" l magnet.
The drain plug and dip stick thread size should be identical.

Again.... the s/p (single prop) drives were not equipped with a magnetic drain plug.
The Duo Prop drives were equipped with a magnetic drain plug.

All AQ series transmission top covers were equipped with a "Dip Stick"...... not a magnetic drain plug, although it will seal just as well as the dip stick will.


Also, the lower unit was filled with gooey gear lube. But zero water in it.
The Volvo Penta s/p drive should NOT have heavy gear oil in it.
Heavy gear oil will cause damage to the slinger pump impeller drive pins.
When the drive pins have been sheared off, the pump action no longer functions.
When this occurs, you will eventually encounter drive unit failure. Not pretty and very expensive.


Now I see the 1:00 o'Clock fill plug -- it needs an Allen wrench.

Yes.... use a Non-Metric Hex Key wrench for removing it.
You will need one new OEM red phenolic gasket for this plug.




.



.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top