Logo

Loss of Power & Now Engine Shut Down @ Higher RPM

eneusiis

Regular Contributor
Okay.....as you can tell by my posts over the past year, this motor is giving me a run for my money....literally. I took the boat out this past weekend to give it a run down since the fall duck season when I properly winterized it and stored indoors for the winter. The engine starts fine, idles fine, will run all day from idle to 1/2 throttle. When I went WOT for about 1,000 yards give or take, I lost a cylinder, if I backed it down the cylinder would come back, or if I shut it off and restarted it would be normal again. If I ran it a WOT again, it would repeat itself but would drop the cylinder in shorter distance.

It really seemed like a spark issue. I put new plugs in every year, even though they get less than 100 hours of run time on them so these plugs were pretty new NGK's. After pulling the plugs the 3rd cylinder, which was the one not operating properly as you could tell by the residue on the plug compared to the 1st and 2nd cylinder. Overall though the 3rd cylinder plug looked good.

I decided, that since I do not know if the coils and wires had ever been replaced, that was the most likely issue. I ordered new coils and plugs and switched to the Honda factory Denso plugs. I got them tonight and installed them all, gapped the plugs to the specs etc.... I had done this once before on a BF25 of similar vintage, this is a BF40.

I took the boat out after install to give it a shakedown. Started immediately, warmed up, and off I went. Made it about the same distance as before, except.....this time the engine COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. No warning lights, sounds etc. Oil indicator light was green, water shooting out the tell tale and no other noises sounds or the like. I did the same thing, all of a sudden I had a loss of power, which felt like a loss of a cylinder due to spark, but the engine shut off completely. The motor will start just fine every time and operate at idle to half throttle, I can still go WOT, but the symptom repeats itself.

So......It still really seems electrical to me and the only thing I can replace now is the following electrical items. 1. The coils (exciter, charger) under the fly wheel or 2. The CDI unit itself.

Things to know about this motor...1998 BF40, originally was a remote controlled version, that I converted to a tiller. I did not change the CDI in that conversion. This has me a bit suspect that is the problem. Next....I don't know if the timing belt has ever been changed, it looks good, but I think it is about due. Could timing be causing this issue?

I don't believe it is a fuel delivery issue, last year I replaced the internal fuel filter, installed a new 60 GPH Honda external fuel filter, it has new fuel line and bulb. All fuel connections have stainless clamps or zip ties internally. Last year I replaced all the float needles in the carbs, clean the carbs, synced the carbs as well. I also did a cylinder compression test and all 3 cylinders were very healthy. Lastly I adjusted the valve clearance as part of regular maintenance when I did the carbs.

So...before I bit the bullet and spend $600 - $800 on a new timing belt, exciter and charger coils and a CDI unit I would really appreciate your feedback. I wish I would have recorded video of it tonight but I was so pissed off I didn't think about it.


Thanks for your endless help,

Eric
 
Looks like the CDI units are the same CDI unit whether it is a Tiller or Remote steered unit. Also, the other item that could be replaced is the Coil Assembly Pulser.

I should clarify that the symptom occurs at 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle (WOT).
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm the ******* here.......it was fuel related. Last year I added 16' of fuel line and moved the gas tank to the bow. The engine was collapsing the ball. Moved the tank to the back and shortened the hose and BAM back in business runs perfect.
 
Glad you found the problem. I know a lot of people who have smaller outboards and do move their tank forward in the boat in order to better distribute weight. Never heard of any problems until this post. Could it be that your fuel pick up in the tank or the hose is somehow restricted?
 
Glad you found the problem. I know a lot of people who have smaller outboards and do move their tank forward in the boat in order to better distribute weight. Never heard of any problems until this post. Could it be that your fuel pick up in the tank or the hose is somehow restricted?

So, I have an external fuel filter and I also bypassed that in the test. I am looking to possibly replaced the Fuel Diaphram and the fuel tank, because I think a vintage 1998 the diaphram may not be the best at sucking the fuel.

My other questions would be my external fuel filter has a "vent" screw on it. It is completely closed. Does it need to be open to vent, could that be causing the problem?
 
Don't know about the vent on the fuel filter. My Racor does not have a vent. What kind is it?

If those fuel lines and primer bulb are 20 years old, they definitely should be replaced. Make sure you get to ones that are ethanol safe.
 
Don't know about the vent on the fuel filter. My Racor does not have a vent. What kind is it?

If those fuel lines and primer bulb are 20 years old, they definitely should be replaced. Make sure you get to ones that are ethanol safe.

Hey, Chawk, fuel line is 1 year old, bulb is about 3 years old, both in great condition, stored inside. The fuel filter is the following Honda OEM 30 GPH Racor filter in the link below. See that allen set screw in the front top of the base, that has the word "VENT" above it.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-06178-ZW1-030GH-Gph-Fuel-Fltr/dp/B00BEEDJIG
 
Well. OK. I suspect that vent is there for draining the filter, but not completely sure of that. Regardless, the vent should be closed.

But back to your original issue. If all the fuel lines are clear, and check valve in the bulb is working correctly, and the vent on the fuel tank is sufficiently opened, then I don't see any reason that you can't move the tank forward in the boat without causing problems, unless you have a weak fuel pump.

Well, after writing that, have you checked the fuel line connector at the engine? Those things do wear out and suck air into the fuel system.
 
Well. OK. I suspect that vent is there for draining the filter, but not completely sure of that. Regardless, the vent should be closed.

But back to your original issue. If all the fuel lines are clear, and check valve in the bulb is working correctly, and the vent on the fuel tank is sufficiently opened, then I don't see any reason that you can't move the tank forward in the boat without causing problems, unless you have a weak fuel pump.

Well, after writing that, have you checked the fuel line connector at the engine? Those things do wear out and suck air into the fuel system.


Hey Chawk,

The tank was vented, the tank however is close to 16 years old, which I believe the fuel pickup screen probably has a decent amount of blockage. I am on the search for a new 6 gallon tank.

The fuel pump is brand new, which is why I am suspect of my tank. The connectors at the engine are also newer, 1 year old this week. I don't notice any leak from that area.
 
Good idea to check the pick up in the tank.

Sometimes that connector will not leak fuel under normal circumstances, but will suck air under high rpm's. The way to check it is to substitute a piece of clear plastic hose with the same interior diameter down stream of the connector and look for air bubbles when engine is running at high rpm's. You might want to do that test with the tank far forward, where you had the problems.

You may also want to try that same piece of plastic hose downstream of your fuel pump just to make sure you don't have a leaking diaphragm.
 
Good idea to check the pick up in the tank.

Sometimes that connector will not leak fuel under normal circumstances, but will suck air under high rpm's. The way to check it is to substitute a piece of clear plastic hose with the same interior diameter down stream of the connector and look for air bubbles when engine is running at high rpm's. You might want to do that test with the tank far forward, where you had the problems.

You may also want to try that same piece of plastic hose downstream of your fuel pump just to make sure you don't have a leaking diaphragm.



Hey Chawk,

New fuel diaphram is already on the way, planned on replacing that since as far as I know it is from 1998. I am sure that rubber inside their is well used and tired.
 
Back
Top