Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Is this throttle plate okay?

P

Projectus

Contributing Member
1993 Evinrude 150hp, VE150GLETG.


The throttle plate on the left is #1 (starboard). The throttle plate on the right is #2 (port).


All three throttle plates on port side (2, 4, and 6) don't appear to close as snugly as the starboard plates. (Please see photo)


Is this enough to cause problems for the port side mixture? The symptom I'm troubleshooting is that the port carbs only function if I choke one of them with my palm. Then they contribute while idling, but only for a minute or so.


Thanks for all the great help so far. I've learned a lot since I acquired this motor in September.
I've also posted on the Hull Truth, but there have been invasive re-direct pop-ups happening a lot, so I'm posting in a couple places. I might not be able to offer much engine advice yet, but I can help with the pop-ups if you use Chrome for you internet browser. 180321_095006_COLLAGE-1.jpg
 
racerone said:
Throttle plates MUST be closed at idle.-----Those need adjusting.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Racerone. I always appreciate your insight.
I wasn't sure if that slight amount was enough to cause any idling trouble. I think I'd like to get them adjusted before starting the engine again.
You can probably guess what my next question is, but I'll do some research first to see if I can figure it out.
 
Last edited:
After staring at the linkage for a while, I loosed this screw (see picture) and the port plates closed completely. So I tightened it back up. Hopefully that's all that was needed.
20180321_122004 - Edited.jpg
 
As long as they all open at the same time your good. Did you check/adjust engine sync between throttle opening and spark advance? The throttle cam has a mark the carbs should just begin to open as the mark passes center of the follower roller.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
As long as they all open at the same time your good. Did you check/adjust engine sync between throttle opening and spark advance? The throttle cam has a mark the carbs should just begin to open as the mark passes center of the follower roller.
Click to expand...

If my cam had a mark, it's worn off now. I can't see one on it anywhere.
I just took the boat to the launch, and aside from hating a cold start (needed a little spray of carb cleaner), it idled and shifted nicely, without dying at all. That's a major imporovement.
I think I have a cold start or quick-start system on this engine, and I'm suspicious of one disconnected wire on the port cylinder bank. I believe it is one of the two wires for the port side temperature switch. It comes out of the #4 cyilnder. Maybe it's an alarm wire, I don't know.
Thanks for the input. I always appreciate it very much.
 
"No such thing as a motor that does not like to start cold." That's intriguing.

Yes, I push it in while cranking, after I've pumped the ball, which I now keep vertical - arrow pointing to the sky. (If it's already warmed up I don't piush the key it - it fires up very quickly). When I push in at the first key position after the "Off" position, I hear it click at the motor with each push.

I should mention that my red choke lever is pointing straight down to the ground. I think I remember you commenting somewhere about that.

If I open the plates and spray a tiny but of carb cleaner into the throttle body of one carb, and I mean a tiny amount, less than one second, it starts very well.
If I don't spray, the engine will crank until I decide it's been cranking too long with now reaction. Then I'll try again. And again. And then I'll get one puff. Next time, maybe two puffs. Then after a 3-4 of similar reactions to cranking, it'll eventually fire up. Personally, I don't either situation is very good - cranking that long, or spraying.
 
There is something wrong with the electric primer.----The electric primer does exactly the same thing as you spraying in the carb cleaner.----Have a shop look at it !!
 
I know you're right about having a shop look at it. I've been in over my head for a while now.

I was wondering if this disconnected brown wire from between the #2 and #4 cylinder had anything to do with starting. It was disconnected and stuffed back into the sleeve when I got the engine. Maybe it has something to do with the VRO being disabled, no idea.20180321_172004 - Edited.jpg
 
I watched a video by Dangar Marine about Johnson/Evinrude electric primers, and I didn't know there was a tiny filter screen in there. I think I can take it apart and inspect it, and both hoses, and probably figure it out.
If curious, the Dangar video is at: https://youtu.be/BrBj2p4A8xQ
 
The throttle cam has a mark the carbs should just begin to open as the mark passes center of the follower roller.
Click to expand...
Quit looking for mark as it don't have one........but it should not touch cam at idle position and should have a 1/16 gap. The white/ black wire is Quikstart and the tan/blue is alarm and needs hooked back up.
 
faztbullet said:
Quit looking for mark as it don't have one........but it should not touch cam at idle position and should have a 1/16 gap. The white/ black wire is Quikstart and the tan/blue is alarm and needs hooked back up.
Click to expand...

I think a lot of cams might have a mark, judging by how many write-ups and videos I've read and seen. But maybe this Evinrude doesn't, or it's just worn off.

My arm's roller is pretty far away from the cam at idle, more like a full inch. Here's a photo. The seating of the screw that I circled might be stripped - it won't get tight.

I appreciate you telling what that wire is for - that was driving me nuts. Thank you.20180317_134137 - Edited2.jpg
 
I think your on to something replace the plate and adjust the follower for the 1/16 gap and see what it does. My theory it is starving for air on a cold start that is why the butterflys were jacked a little open because it started easier? Try holding the butterflys open slightly by hand on a cold start while holding the primer? It looks like that screw is for adjusting the throttle pickup you should see massive improvement on your hole shot ad well?
 
I am curious if the travel is deliberate in design, or if the roller should be a sheet a paper away from the cam. There is a ratchet controlled by my non-tightening screw to get the roller closer to the cam, but it can't be set closer to the arm because that screw doesn't tighten down.
Hole shots haven't ever been important to me - I'm never in much of a hurry. But this is on a '93 Champion Fish 'N Ski, and the kids really want to go tubing this summer.
On second thought, maybe a strong hole shot still isn't needed.
 
racerone said:
There is something wrong with the electric primer.----The electric primer does exactly the same thing as you spraying in the carb cleaner.----Have a shop look at it !!
Click to expand...

I did some disassembly today and found a cracked nut on the fuel filter (big, white plastic nut) and found the cover of the primer solenoid was cracked pretty bad from over-tightening. The body was fine, so I ordered a new kit that includes a new cover, new gasket, and new Schroeder valve (the "red lever").
Those are some places for vacuum loss for sure.
I still pulled hoses from the primer solenoid and made sure they were in good shape and able to deliver fuel, and I disassembled the primer solenoid itself and decided it was in good condition, functioned, and had a clean screen, but had one outlet nipple (to port side) with some moderate crud in it. I cleaned that out. By the way, those two plastic outlet nipples are ridiculously fragile.
Then I pulled the vapor separator assembly and checked the float and orifices and connections, and decided it was in decent shape.
The parts will be delivered in 2-4 days, so I'll put them on and report back. I feel guilty about getting lots of help, but not being able to offer much yet, so I'm hoping this will help someone eventually.
 
Last edited:
Throttle pickup is very important for overall performance and will extend engine life. Throttle opening must be in sync with spark advance period. Tell the kids to hold on and goose it they will love it especially if they get thrown off.
 
faztbullet said:
Quit looking for mark as it don't have one........but it should not touch cam at idle position and should have a 1/16 gap. The white/ black wire is Quikstart and the tan/blue is alarm and needs hooked back up.
Click to expand...

I reconnected that brown/blue wire, and a constant alarm sounds now whether running or just if the key is in the On position.
My manual won't arrive for a couple days yet, so I'm not positive what a constant (not beeping) alarm means. Maybe an oil warning - the VRO has been bypassed and the oil tank removed.
 
I'm pretty sure I know what the alarm is about. I pulled both thermostats, and one is stuck open. Very open. I thought the little piston in it only could only travel about an 1/8 inch. This one is sticking out at least a 1/4 inch. I'm hoping stuck open is better than stuck closed. I assume this stuck thermostat is what prompted the previous owner to disconnect the alarm wire.
More parts to buy.
 
racerone said:
There is something wrong with the electric primer.----The electric primer does exactly the same thing as you spraying in the carb cleaner.----Have a shop look at it !!
Click to expand...

Racerone was right again. I replaced the electric primer with a new kit. The "click" sound the solenoid makes is louder and, I assume, stronger now, and primer fuel is delivered properly. And I replaced the fuel filter nut (the big plastic one) because it was cracked, and allowing air to be sucked in, I assume affecting the vacuum ability of the pump. Thanks everyone for taking time to add your suggestions. This site is fantastic, and I'd not be able to get the boat on the water without it.
 
Hello,
You guys really nailed it on this one. I've been troubleshooting some more this spring after two outings with the same problem - stalling when shifting into gear. It didn't happen everytime, but 19 out of 20 or so.
A few posts up, there is a photo showing how far away the roller on the spark advance lever is from the throttle cam. That inch of travel was hosing everything. Occasionally, after shifting back to neutral, the roller would stay on or very close to the cam, and those were the times the engine shifted fine and worked well.
The stripped screw on the spark advance lever was not allowing the roller to stay "just touching" the cam. (The screw wasn't really stripped - the plastic hole that receives it was stripped out, and the screw couldn't get a bite.)
A full lync & sync is in order, but getting that spark advance lever roller where it should be solved the stalling-in-gear issue.
Thank you very much, and my kids thank you too.
 
Any slack or gap is need for adjustment. Simple to do. Up top look for the link rod between the carbs. On the port side top is a screw (it's Posi-drive, but a Phillips can be used in a pinch). Loosen it to see if the throttle plates close. You can use a pencil (eraser side in) to push slightly. If all three are open equally they should close up. Tighten screw at top, but don't let the link bar move. This is where the Posi-drive screw driver works much better. Check to see things are better.

Earlier edit; I had mentioned to you about brown colored seal behind the carb bodies to throttle plates. Your '93 model is not affected by this. The seal did not change until 1995. You do get both seals in an OEM carb kit, but the one I mention will not fit your motor. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Back
Top