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How does THIS particular helmet pin come out?

What did ricardo say between .001 and .003 inch with the bolts hand tight? The lower bearing is for forwad gear with a left hand prop it clamps the bearing tight so it dont spin under extreme loads.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
I just checked my book calls for .004 inches preload on the bearing.
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Well if it’s only hand tight then I’ll need new lock nuts because mine are marginal. Also, I put the sealant between transmission and drive, like the manual says(I’m using aviation permatex) and not sure how well I can get the feeler gauge in there. Do I need to do it with the drive in forward?

Took awhile to get that damn thing on the spindle.... finally got it to go. Also was given wrong seal and had to go get another. It’s loosely bolted together now.
 
I didnt see anything about putting gasket maker between the housings i dont imagine it will hurt anything. Can youg get a feeler between the two housings?with the bolts loose? Try different areas your probably just fine. Since you had difficulty putting the gearbox on tells me ypu did not forget to install the coupler. The prop spins alot better with the coupler there:)
 
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kimcrwbr1 said:
What did ricardo say between .001 and .003 inch with the bolts hand tight?
Actually between .003" and .004".
I shoot for .003" with the two cap screws and two nuts just snug (using a wrench with light pressure), and prior to the O-rings being installed!
IMO, this is a far more accurate method than that of using the OEM codes to calculate the shim value!

The lower bearing is for forwad gear with a left hand prop it clamps the bearing tight so it dont spin under extreme loads.
Yes, when installed permanently (with the two new O-rings and fasteners tight) the lower bearing becomes squeezed so that it will not spin!
When shimmed correctly, the bearing becomes squeezed (aka pre-loaded), and the two cases will come tightly together closing any gap.

Under-shimming = risk of bearing spinning.
Over-shimming = risk of lazy O-ring compression.
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kimcrwbr1 said:
I just checked my book calls for .004 inches preload on the bearing.
I do not know if the Volvo Penta OEM service manual gives this info..... I have not seen it. They tend to explain using the codes.
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ashedd said:
Well if it’s only hand tight then I’ll need new lock nuts because mine are marginal. Also, I put the sealant between transmission and drive, like the manual says(I’m using aviation permatex) and not sure how well I can get the feeler gauge in there. Do I need to do it with the drive in forward?
This feeler gauge "Check" is done prior to the O-rings, prior to any sealant, and with the four fasteners just snug.

Took awhile to get that damn thing on the spindle.... finally got it to go. Also was given wrong seal and had to go get another. It’s loosely bolted together now.
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kimcrwbr1 said:
I didnt see anything about putting gasket maker between the housings i dont imagine it will hurt anything.
NOTE:
We can use water proof grease if running in river/lake water.
I use QuickSilver "Perfect Seal" for drives that are salt water destine.
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I’m confused....

Why would I assemble the thing and check the clearance without the o-rings, then take it apart and install the o-rings and tighten it down just above hand tight? Am I seating something here?
 
Those two o-rings are new. We’re talking about the o-rings between the transmission and intermediate drive correct? The big one and little one? Still don’t understand why I would bolt the transmission down until the required gap is obtained, then pull it apart and add the o-rings and bolt it down again, this time without worrying about any gap. I didn’t take the transmission apart besides removing the yoke to replace u-joints... so if we’re talking about seating some replacement o-rings inside the transmission, well then they’re the old ones and I never took it apart. The manual calls for bolting the trans and intermediate together and torquing to around 28 ft pounds, which I can’t really do with buying a crows foot.
 
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I’ve re-read the procedure in the factory manual again. It seems to me that all the measurements(both the official way and the way talked about here) taken are just to determine what size shim to use between the two halves. Completely understandable if the transmission had come apart and new seals installed upon reassembly. But since I didn’t take that apart, except to remove the u-joint yoke pinion from the trans(new rings used), it seems to me that the original shim can be reused and that nothing changed in respect to the shim size. So it looks like I can either torque the thing down, or go hand tight like mentioned here. Either way I need new nyloc nuts and washers.

If for some reason the drive gives me problems, I’ll deal with it then. I’ll replace the trans with a rebuilt one if I have to. I think I’ve already done far more than the average backyard mechanic or a little boat yard would have done. I don’t think they would have even replaced the seals at all, or perhaps even the PDS bearing for a simple bellows change.
 
It is just a procedure to confirm bearing preload is correct. If that bearing is not held in place it will effect gearlash. price a gearset and tell me if you think it is important?
 
Ok.... first off, O-rings should always be replaced anytime we get into an area where the O-ring has been compressed.
They have since taken a "set" and DO NOT go a second time around!

Secondly ..... the AQ series is so well designed that Average Joe and even Below Average Joe can work on them.
We must be prudent by double checking Joe's work. *** In other words, we should NOT take it for granted that the last guy in there did things correctly!



ashedd said:
Those two o-rings are new. We’re talking about the o-rings between the transmission and intermediate drive correct? The big one and little one?
Yes, the two O-rings between the transmission and the Intermediate Housing.
The small one seals around the oil drain back tube, and the larger one seals around the lower driven gear bearing retainer.


Still don’t understand why I would bolt the transmission down until the required gap is obtained,
You would NOT bolt the transmission down for it's final time until the shim pack value has been established.
Checking the "gap" is only part of what is required to establish the correct shim pack value.
(see below)



then pull it apart and add the o-rings and bolt it down again, this time without worrying about any gap. I didn’t take the transmission apart besides removing the yoke to replace u-joints...
OK..... in order to obtain the required shim pack (squeeze against the bearing), we must go through this procedure.
With the O-rings NOT installed or in place, we snug the bolts until the unit begins to compress the shim pack.
Next, we take our first feeler gauge measurement (take many measurements...... up to 5 or 6) between the transmission and the Intermediate Housing faces.
If the gap measured .010", we would remove .007" from the shim pack value, ending up with a squeeze of .003".
If the gap measured .002", we would add .001" of shim value, ending up with a squeeze of .003".
Now with the shim pack value having been corrected, and with the NEW O-rings in place, we do our final assembly and final tightening of the cap screws and nuts.

so if we’re talking about seating some replacement o-rings inside the transmission, well then they’re the old ones and I never took it apart.
Unless we see signs of oil leaking, the existing and Non-Disassembled O-rings can be left alone.

The manual calls for bolting the trans and intermediate together and torquing to around 28 ft pounds, which I can’t really do with buying a crows foot.
During final assembly, tighten them the best you can.
I use a hex key wrench on the cap screws and an open end wrench on the hex nuts.
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ashedd said:
I’ve re-read the procedure in the factory manual again. It seems to me that all the measurements (both the official way and the way talked about here) taken are just to determine what size shim to use between the two halves.
If by "two halves" you mean Transmission and Intermediate Housing........ that is correct!

Completely understandable if the transmission had come apart and new seals installed upon reassembly. But since I didn’t take that apart, except to remove the u-joint yoke pinion (main drive gear) from the trans (new rings used), it seems to me that the original shim can be reused and that nothing changed in respect to the shim size. Ah..... but please re-read *** above.

So it looks like I can either torque the thing down, or go hand tight like mentioned here. Either way I need new nyloc nuts and washers.
No..... the final installation requires that the two cap screws and the two nyloc nuts be fully tightened.

If for some reason the drive gives me problems, I’ll deal with it then.
You can roll the dice and hope that the last guy in there did not get the shims out of order, lost one or mixed up......., or you can spend 10 minutes verifying that the shim pack is correct!
Your call!
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Ok... got the drive all back together and engine running good. Put it in the water today so I could mark the waterline for bottom paint.. I also started it up and adjusted the idle. How much noise, if any, should I hear from the transmission? Standing on the dock with the motor running I could hear the transmission in neutral.. it wasn’t loud but I knew it was there. Pretty sure I got a ton of oil in the thing.
 
Were you in neutral? The oil slinger is on the prop shaft it needs to be in gear to pump oil into the upper bearings. Mine made a tapping sound but quieted down when there was a load on the prop. I did replace all the bearings in the upper gearbox. Did you check bearing preload on the bearing box as suggested? Did you take it out for sea trials? Anxious on how well the engine performs with the single carb.
 
I checked the pre load as best I could. It was not in gear today in the water, I did put it in gear briefly but couldn’t run back and listen as I was floating just above my trailer and it wanted to get sideways. I was afraid of having a hard time getting it back on the trailer as it’s an old ski boat trailer. My boat sits on top of the fenders. I’m going to raise the bunks now that the boat is blocked up in the yard.

It ran great in my backyard. I thought it was over heating so I replaced the thermostat... still seemed a little hot but it’s in the green on the temp gauge, my multimeter reads temp and I taped that probe to the coolant tank and got 140 something. Manifold was also very cool to the touch. So I think it’s ok I did the impeller a few days ago. It started up in the water well enough for being stone cold. Just took a little high idle to warm up a bit. It did keep dying when I gave it gas, I’m assuming it’s running rich. Didn’t really screw with it too much. Was able to fabricate a throttle bracket extension and it works great.

Tomorrow I start with the bottom paint.. I think it might take less than two quarts. There’s very little wetted area of the hull as rest. Gonna put barrier paint on too, although I don’t think this boat needs it. This is definitely made differently than your normal production boat.
 
Does the slow needle also have the larger screw head? Preadjust is 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. I adjusted mine by the hole shot. Turn it in until it hesitates when you goose it fast then slowly back out for a nice smooth hole shot. I found mine runs alot better with the standard points setup. Adjust the point gap with a dwell meter at close to 62 degrees as possible then confirm timing is at 6 degrees at 900 rpm. You just need to work out the bugs i also found my ignition coil was getting hot. Put a ballast resistor to coil pos and it stays cool to the touch. Do you have the pertronix module? If you add a ballast resistor be sure and power the module from the battery side of the resistor.
 
It’s the big screw. Yeah I have the petronix. The flamethrower coil stays cools. Once I put the new timing belt on I’ll adjust the timing again.
 
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ashedd said:
Ok... got the drive all back together and engine running good. Put it in the water today so I could mark the waterline for bottom paint.. I also started it up and adjusted the idle. How much noise, if any, should I hear from the transmission? Standing on the dock with the motor running I could hear the transmission in neutral.. it wasn’t loud but I knew it was there. Pretty sure I got a ton of oil in the thing.
All AQ series transmissions are designed with hypoid gears. All three gears are rotating when the engine is running.
When set up correctly, these will operate very quietly.
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Here it is in the water for the first time... my short ride from ramp to my slip across the marina was enough to cool the transmission, so I guess it only gets a little warm when in neutral for extended times. Still got wires hanging out of the dash, so no actual trips until I get that squared away. Then I can report back.
 
Did want to ask,

How easy should the outdrive be to turn? Disconnected the steering and couldn’t turn the drive by hand from in the boat
 
It should turn easy by hand with the cable disconnected. I put a non feedback steerin in because if you take your hand off the wheel it pulls real hard to the left on the hole shot and higher rpms.
 
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How easy was the drive to turn with the helmut pin out? It is either the fork bushings or the pivot pin in the intermediate housing. Pull the grease zert off of the steering loke (fork) and spray a bunch of WD in and let it soak for a bit then squirt some good grease in there and see if the steering loosens up?
 
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Idled fine, which is all I did. Boat moved too fast at idle, may have to turn it down but I’ll wait until I replace timing belt, set timing, mixture, and hookup tach. But it idled great once I got it started, think I flooded it real bad. Still using a screwdriver to start it, so it’s kinda awkward. Got two comments on how well it ran
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
It should turn easy by hand with the cable disconnected. I put a non feedback steerin in because if you take your hand off the wheel it pulls real hard to the left on the hole shot and higher rpms.
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I have hydraulic steering, should be easier to turn than it is... it’ll need more work I guess. I was trying to turn the outdrive from the bracket/arm that the hydraulic piston attaches to. Found a grease zerk I missed before in the steering parts on the bell house but it would NOT take grease.. I’ll habe to remove it and see what’s up.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
How easy was the drive to turn with the helmut pin out? It is either the fork bushings or the pivot pin in the intermediate housing. Pull the grease zert off of the steering loke (fork) and spray a bunch of WD in and let it soak for a bit then squirt some good grease in there and see if the steering loosens up?
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I’m getting these out of order...

The drive turned fine as I recall, but I might not ever turned it with the pin out.
 
When you disconnect the arm the arm should turn fairly easy. Where the yoke goes through the arm there should be a zert center of the yoke is that the one your talking about? It is actually the inner part of the shield. We should have checked that while the drive was apart. I checked the zert is part number 3 on the connecting components parts diagram.
 
There’s a zerk that put grease on top of the helmet, I over filled it thinking it was the PDS zerk. I’ll look and try to figure out which it is... buy I think it’s the fork
 
There are two bushings where the yoke goes through the shield on the top and bottom of the steering arm. On the top of the yoke shaft there should be a zert looks like it goes in the shield that lubricates the steering fork.
 
I don’t see what I think it is on the diagrams. The setup looks a little different than the diagrams. I can get a pic tomorrow. I was aware of two zerks in there, the one that left grease all over the helmet and the PDS. But this third one came out of nowhere today, it was covered in dirt and crap. It’s to the left of the rest as you’re looking aft.
 
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