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How does THIS particular helmet pin come out?

The rolling torque value for the steel bearing box is not measured in foot pounds of torque!
Please pick up an OEM service manual for your stern drive, and read the section that addresses the procedure!

The main drive gear seal surface washer is not stainless steel! It is carbon steel, and is subject to rust!





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The numbers that represent parts shown in a schematic are SEQ#s.

The SEQ#s listed on the left side of the right side column, will correspond to the Volvo Penta OEM part number.

Use caution..... SEQ#s may vary from one schematic to another schematic!


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Sorry I meant .6-1 lb with a spring scale i though the washer was stainless mine had no rust whatever. I did not check it with a magnet sorry.
 
I have the factory service manual for my drive and engine. But like all service manuals, there’s the long drawn out correct procedure(often requiring special tools and fixtures), and the one that works just as well. I will look at the service manual again, for like the 38th time, and try to make heads or tails out of it. A lot of these manuals assume you know your way around an outdrive already. I can read acft wiring diagrams and drawings drunk and still understand them, it’s experience.

I’ve got four shims that came out of this thing. I picked up a new seal(#21), and o-ring(#19).. but if you’re telling me I need MORE rings, please let me know. Sounds to me like all this spinning torque stuff is simply stating it must turn true and freely. I’ll do the checks as best I can, but really didn’t want to do so much disassembly on this thing. I realize the need to do it “right”, but it’s hardly the space shuttle. The likelihood is very high that I will only keep the boat a year or two, or until I leave this darn state.

The PDS is all but done. I went today to get another clip for the one I lost, I’m sure I’ll find it when cutting the grass, and need to go out and make sure it fits as it’s slightly different. Been taking a break since I got home earlier. Once the PDS is all done and installed, I can put the rest of the drive work on the back burner until I return from CA April 1st. In the meantime I can work on the cabin, run the motor(when all parts arrive), replace shift cable, etc. I refuse to fight with the crosses if they’re hard to disassemble due to the rust(haven’t tried them yet), I’ll just let my engine rebuilder guy do it. He rebuilt a raw water pump for me on my last boat... and rebuilt one of the mercruiser 350’s. I have more money than tolerance for frustration when it comes to some of this stuff, especially if I foresee bloody knuckles and lots of four letter words.

Im keep plugging away at this with your awesome help...
 
I did my crosses with a vice and a brass drift and center punch. Tap in on a cap and then remove the C clip from the cap inside then use the cross to push the cap out. Once you have two caps pressed in and the C clips on use the brass drift to set the caps into the yoke using the cross. If you have done U joints it should be no problem. The rust should be no problem and by the way if your not bleeding your not doing it correct:)
 
In you manual there should be a pic of the bearing box with a string wrapped around it. Once you know the procedure it is real simple. The yoke should not spin free clamp in in a vice and torque the bolt with the four shims under the washer wrap the string around the bearing box and pull on the string if should move when you exert about 1 lb pressure on the string. Any hanging fish scale will work. If it turn easy remove one of the thinnest shims torque the bolt and try again. Once you get it correct then you can install the seal and O rings, put the bearng box back in the clamping collar and then install the u crosses and torque the yoke into the gear.
 
Once you get it correct then you can install the seal and O rings, put the bearng box back in the clamping collar and then install the u crosses and torque the yoke into the gear.
Then swiftly place the boat on CL and runaway as fast as I can..
 
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I have the factory service manual for my drive and engine. But like all service manuals, there’s the long drawn out correct procedure (often requiring special tools and fixtures), and the one that works just as well.
Much of this work can be done without the special Volvo Penta tools. We call that Improvising! :D

A lot of these manuals assume you know your way around an out drive already.
Yes.

I’ve got four shims that came out of this thing.
You mean from within the seal surface washer?

I picked up a new seal (#21), and o-ring (#19).. but if you’re telling me I need MORE rings, please let me know.
In order to completely over-haul a 280 transmission, you will need a total of 8 O-rings, one top cover Looped-Gasket, and one red phenolic gasket for the fill plug.

Sounds to me like all this spinning torque stuff is simply stating it must turn true and freely.
Back-to-back tapered roller bearings require a pre-load. The pre-load is measured via a rolling torque value.
Too tight...... and the rollers may burn.
Too loose ...... and the rollers may chatter and begin self destructing.
The manual will give you a rolling torque value for NEW bearings, and for what we call "run-in" or used bearings.
With run-in bearings that are still good and operational, you can safely remove .001" from that shim pack.


I’ll do the checks as best I can, but really didn’t want to do so much disassembly on this thing. I realize the need to do it “right”, but it’s hardly the space shuttle. The likelihood is very high that I will only keep the boat a year or two, or until I leave this darn state.
If you can polish the seal surface washer, and bring the seal's surface back to life, you will not need to concern yourself with the shims.

I refuse to fight with the crosses if they’re hard to disassemble due to the rust (haven’t tried them yet), I’ll just let my engine rebuilder guy do it.
Once the universal drive shaft is on the bench, removing and replacing the bearing crosses is not that difficult.
Much of this can be done with a large bench vice and a brass hammer.
 
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In you manual there should be a pic of the bearing box with a string wrapped around it. Once you know the procedure it is real simple.
That is correct for the 280 with the steel bearing box.
When the string is pulled on, the energy needed to rotate the BB is measured in pounds, as though weighing something.
(the later style all aluminum integral bearing box is measured very differently)


The yoke should not spin free clamp in in a vice and torque the bolt with the four shims under the washer wrap the string around the bearing box and pull on the string if should move when you exert about 1 lb pressure on the string.
Technically this is done with the male yoke installed into the drive gear, and with the single bolt torqued to the correct value.
The seal is not yet installed.



Any hanging fish scale will work.
I would suggest using a more precision scale.

If it turns easy remove one of the thinnest shims torque the bolt and try again.
I would suggest removing only .001" value and trying it again.

Once you get it correct then you can install the seal and O rings, put the bearng box back in the clamping collar and then install the u crosses and torque the yoke into the gear.
That will work. However, I do just the opposite.
I R&R the bearing crosses while the universal drive shaft components are on the work bench.
I have found it to be much easier this way.
 
ashedd, while the actual work is fairly easy once you get into it, the OEM schematics and OEM procedures can be somewhat intimidating.

I feel that it's in the best interest of the members to keep our suggestions posted in the thread, and not use the PM system. However, I did send a PM to you with an offer to have a phone conversation if you would care to.

Rick E.


Meanwhile, here is a video that was posted by a DIYr in 2010.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5GYcGKYRs8

Even while he lacks a bit regarding the correct terminology, he does very well with the dis-assembly and his description.

At 4:10 into the video, he shows using propane heat to expand the area for the top cover cap screw removal.

At 6:50 he is removing the top cover "hollow bolt" that requires one new O-ring during re-assembly. (tip... pull the dip stick prior to doing this)

At 8:06 he begins to remove the shift mechanism. I would strongly suggest replacing the eccentric piston seal. An aged/old seal here can be a common source of water intrusion.

At 9:58 he begins to apply heat to the main gear case that will allow expansion and the safe removal of the four clamping collar cap screws. You got very lucky in that your cap screws came out easily.

At 11:16 he removes the clamping collar and the steel bearing box. There will be shims that become visible....... DO NOT loose these!

At 12:10 he removes the main drive gear cap screw that will allow the male yoke to be removed from the gear. This will give you access to the seal and seal surface washer and the control shims.
Note that he left the universal drive shaft in tact. It will remain in tact until the bearing crosses are replaced. It will also be re-installed as a complete component.

At 12:45 he attempts to remove the male yoke. Often this yoke must be tapped out due to friction.


The gear itself will need to be tapped or pressed out of the inner-most bearing due to a mild friction fit.

At 13:00 he has removed the clamping collar. Again, watch for the shims and DO NOT loose them!

At 13:41 he mentions the indexing spring pin. This spring pin provides indexing of the bearing box's critical oil port.

At 14:31 you get a good view of the BB stop collar. Where the shims and O-rings fit on either side of the stop collar, you will liberally apply Perfect Seal when going back together.

At 14:35 you can see the thin O-ring that seals the washer to the male yoke surface.

At 17:26 he shows us the sealing surface.
As I mentioned earlier, we can safely polish .005" from this to renew the surface.
NO Swirl Markings or it may wick oil in the wrong direction.

Pay close attention to what he says at 18:32 regarding a replacement part.

Have fun! :D


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PS..... one last thing!
While this man did very well, I find that many YouTube videos do not show the proper techniques nor the use the correct terminology.
Use discretion.



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Once installed, be sure to tap the yokes correctly as to relax the trunion bearing caps.

Ricardo, would you please explain this step in a bit more detail? Thanks....


 
I’m sick and decided to no longer go outside and stand in the cold. I’ve got the crosses installed and found permatex #3. Can’t finish the PDS because I couldn’t find the proper size grease zerk locally. I thought it had a zerk but that was something else. I’ve ordered one online. I just to check the rolling torque and bolt the transmission back together. Then eventually get the drive wrapped up. The crosses went way easier than I expected. Last time I did it was on an old pickup truck and those u-joints fought me all day. I took a wire brush wheel to the rusty yokes and spritzed them with a little spray paint I had laying around. Looks a lot better. Installed Napa u-joints.

 
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Hope you get to feeling better. My new favorite joke is only women that have gone through labor pain realize what it is like when a man catches a cold:)
 
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Ricardo said:
Once installed, be sure to tap the yokes correctly as to relax the trunion bearing caps.

Ricardo, would you please explain this step in a bit more detail? Thanks....

Certainly!

With a working universal style drive shaft, centrifugal force wants to throw the bearing caps out in a radial fashion.
To counter this force, we install C-clips or expanding Snap-Rings (depending on internally or externally clipped).

When we assemble a universal drive shaft (using new bearing crosses), we take each trunion cap slightly past it's final location in order to easily insert the C-clip or Snap-Ring.
We then use the trunion to push the cap outward as to install the opposite trunion bearing cap.


When completed, the trunion is often pressing against the bearing cap interior creating some friction.

No big deal...... they will eventually wear in.
However, I prefer to bring the intended clearance back by relaxing these.

For a Marine Stern Drive universal drive shaft, I use nothing more than a brass hammer.
The hammer force is applied to either the female yoke, the male yoke or the center section, depending on which cap I am relaxing.
I DO NOT apply hammer force to the actual bearing cross itself.

The applied brass hammer force uses the inertia from the opposite component to move the cap into it's correct and final resting place.
It is simple to do, and takes only a few minutes, if even that! :D
 

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Finally getting ready to bolt the transmission back on..
What is this piece that came from the transmission when I removed it from the boat? Where does it go?

 
Working around the rain today..

Got the stupid exhaust bellow on, what a pain that was. Suppose it’ll go better next time. Got the water pick up neck on and hose. And finally the drive bellow attacked on the boat side, still need to dump oil in the intermediate housing and bolt transmission on. Trying to decide if I need to replace the shift cable before doing that or not. [FONT=Verdana, geneva, lucida, lucida grande, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Also left the shim out in the rain, had to polish off the rust spots the best I could. Didn’t want to change the thickness of the shim at all.. it looks ok, put a thin film of oil on it in the meantime.

Still need to make a wood repair, but can’t do it in the rain. I also don’t like screwing with the engine when it’s raining either. Would like to possibly move to FL. I can get a house on a canal with dock for a lot cheaper than a one bedroom condo in Seattle.
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The shim should be ok just clean it with steel wool. Put the upper gearbox and then check the gap between the housings with a feeler guage you just need enough clamping pressure on the outer bearing race. Depends on what part of florida we dont have hurricanes here to take out your dock?
 
Any idea what size gap I should have between transmission and intermediate housing? Doubt I can torque them to what the manual calls for.
 
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