Logo
FULL SITE MENU

How does THIS particular helmet pin come out?

Maybe the one that left grease on the hemut is the one im talking about? I wonder if there is a plug that needs to be underneath to force the grease into the bushings? Makes sense you dont want water getting up in there from outside. Sounds like the grease just shoots right through the yoke onto the helmut?
 
It was really hard to pump the zerk from what I remember, then when I slid the helmet back,down it was covered in grease. I plan on pulling the boat out again in about a month to paint the sides, so worse case is I check it then.
 
I dont see a plug in the diagram i wonder if it got pressed out with hydraulics from the grease gun. The only easy way to get to it would be to remove the helmet maybe tap the hole and put in a set screw? You would need to remove the drive to pull the yoke not easy in any case. You want to plug the hole so grease goes where its needed.
 
What is being called a “yoke” here is actually your collar steering fork.
It will have a grease fitting at the top of it’s shaft.
The collar steering fork shaft is ported. The port directs grease to two areas; ..... one to a circular grove for the upper plastic bushing, and one to the circular grove for the lower plastic bushing. The circular groves ensure that the grease is spread out within the complete ID if the bushing.
These ports (not the circular groves) can easily become clogged up with old dried out grease (people fail to routinely lube this area).

The fix:
With the collar steering fork not yet installed, place a hose clamp over one port (plugging the port) and and pump grease into the fitting. The open port will clear itself out.
Do the same to the other port!
Now the grease ports are clear and will direct new grease to the bushings!!!!


If grease is oozing out on to the helmet, the V-ring seal is most likely bad and must be replaced!
I suggest gluing the new V-ring in place onto the collar steering fork.
Be sure to grease the V-ring lip so that it can freely rotate against the transom shield surface.

Note:
No-feed-back and/or hydraulic steering is great..... however, each “masks” unwanted steer torque! This means that the helmsman may not feel the torque, but it is still there causing premature steering component wear.
Point being...... do your best to adjust the trim fin/torque tab as to eliminate this steer torque! See your OEM service manual for a suggested setting.


.
 
Last edited:
Always disconnect the battery when charging it is good practice. Another thing I noticed you do not have a slave relay for the starter unless it was added. The start relay give a direct source of power to the start solenoid. The contacts in the ignition switch will last alot longer just something else to consider.
 
I always leave a charger on... I’ll look into possible ground isolation. Working on wiring today. Got that zerk to take a little grease, can post pic later.
 
It’s the wind that’s stopped me twice. I don’t want to get out in the sound and loose the engine and have to fight the wind and waves to get back. I’ll just keep painting or something.
 
Back
Top