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Give up on Solex carbs?

Part number 824663 for the flame arrestor but cannot find the cover # 284701 a thick guage piece of tin with two small holes will work. Leave a tab on it to zip tie the breather tube pointing at the arrestor?
 
ashedd said:
Oh geez.... Might have been cheaper to buy a new mercruiser and install it lol.

The braket looks the same as the one I have already(834435), but I’m not sure how accurate that epc is.
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youmay be OK with that bracket you may need to get creative with a pair pf channelocks?
 
Any idea how to get this pin out? The internet’s explains how to get the other two types out, but not this one.



EDIT: I started a new thread about the pin.
 
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My 1986 AQ131 is equipped with the PA44A1. I've examined exploded view diagrams and probed around a bit with a mirror, but there does not appear to be a drain plug on the bowl. Is it possible to drain the float bowl via a drain plug??
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
I have a 14X17 short hub looking for a good home probably work good for your setup. You want to achieve around 5000 WOT rpm.
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Turns out I gotta 14X15L on the boat now, with half the paint boiled off

and a spare 15X14R which doesn’t even go with the drive lol
 
Figures......

I buy the carb and stuff I need off eBay, and now this guy is giving away his Bayliner for free and it looks like he has most the parts I needed. Lol



Got the manifold I bought sitting here, waiting on the carb and fuel line. There’s also a rebuild kit someplace, I haven’t checked the mail all week.
 
Yea i got my 16ft sterling for free and thought it just needed a head. When i pulled the head i found the cylinder walls had pits about 1/16 deep in the #4 cylinder. I have about 3 grand in the engine alone plus i rebuilt the upper gearbox another $700. Sterling is basically a bayliner made by one of the brothers when they broke up.
 
No adjustment necessary you can check clearance between the cam and the puck but you need to change the thickness of the puck to get it in spec. It takes a special tool to depress the lifter so you can change the puck on top.
 
Gonna throw this carb in the sound pretty soon!

I’ve had it apart several times. It’s been boiled and then soaked in carb cleaner. I’ve poked every passage I can find with wire. Sprayed everything out with carb cleaner, and installed a rebuilt kit from mikes. It simply won’t idle. It’ll idle if I squirt gas in there and with starting fluid, then dies from fuel starvation. No vac leaks from intake manifold gasket or carb gasket. I did have to file the hell out of the base of the carb as it was bent pretty good. Seems to seal now.

It runs at higher rpm, but I’m limited to how much I can run it since my neighbors are very close and I’m not supposed to have a Boat in my backyard. I’ve adjusted the idle mixture and still nothing. Something has got to be clogged still. I’d like to buy a new carb at this point. I put a pertronix kit and coil on it since I was getting intermittent spark.
 
Is the ignition coil getting hot if so add a ballast resistor to coil pos but make sure the ignition module in the distributor is getting battery voltage.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Is the ignition coil getting hot if so add a ballast resistor to coil pos but make sure the ignition module in the distributor is getting battery voltage.
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It runs when you rev it past idle. The timing may be off a bit, but I can adjust that after it’ll idle. It also will keep running if I give it a shot of starting fluid while it’s running. The plus must be firing just fine. The ignition system is also hot wired since I suspect an issue with the Volvo harness. The ignition switch has been getting rained on for a few years.

Its the the old style carb with large the large mixture screw.
 
Have you looked at the timing belt sounds like it may have skipped a tooth? With the ignition off pull the # 1 plug and stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank with a socket until you feel compression. Then line the crank marks at TDC. On the dust guard behind the cam sprocket there is a notch the mark on the cam sprocket needs to be at that notch exactly. i played hell getting mine to idle come to find out my crank sprocket was damaged where it fit into the keyway on the crank.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Have you looked at the timing belt sounds like it may have skipped a tooth? With the ignition off pull the # 1 plug and stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank with a socket until you feel compression. Then line the crank marks at TDC. On the dust guard behind the cam sprocket there is a notch the mark on the cam sprocket needs to be at that notch exactly. i played hell getting mine to idle come to find out my crank sprocket was damaged where it fit into the keyway on the crank.
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I can check that, but I don’t think that explains why it’ll keeps running when I spray it with starting fluid when it’s about to die. Unless I’m missing something.... I know that if it jumped time that I will run at high rpms and perhaps not at all at idle. But this thing run at idle if I provide the fuel.
 
You can check the timing while cranking do you have a remote start button handy. I tried it by earball but needed to get the timing close with a light first.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
You can check the timing while cranking do you have a remote start button handy. I tried it by earball but needed to get the timing close with a light first.
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I’m in north Seattle. I’m using needle nose pliers to short the solenoid on the starter, probably need something a little more legit. Seems like I tried to check the timing, but I think the spark was intermittent at the time. I’ll have to try again.
 
Yea a remote start button comes in handy. I have a complete tuneup set handy plugs, points, cap and rotor and wires and condenser sitting here waiting for summer.. went back to points it made a huge difference with cold starts and idle speed. As long as the compression is good and the timing belt is in good condition you just need to work the bugs out. In the center of the carb throat up on top is the idle air jet do you have a pic of the top of the carb?
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
If you pump the throttle do you get a shot of fuel out the accelerator pump?
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Yes, that part works great. That’s how I get it to start. One pump and it starts and immediately dies. Three pumps and it starts and stays running for a few seconds. As far as the idle jet at the top of the carb.... no gas ever come out of that jet. I can get gas to come out below it when I rev it.
 
Just a little advice did you fill the drive with engine oil 10W30 or 10W40? If you run the engine for extended periods shift into forward gear that way iol circulates to the upper gearbox bearings. The oil slinger is on the propshaft any only moves oil when the propshaft is turning. The jet on top of the carb is a air jet and causes the fuel to emulsify for the slow circuit. Are you setting the idle speed stop screw two full turns after contact as a pre adjust?
 
I don’t have the drive back together yet. Still waiting on proper size grease zero which should arrive tomorrow. My initial idle mixture is two turns out. I’ve tried everything from one turn to five, but know that two turns is what the manual calls for. It runs for slightly longer the more I unscrew it, like half a second longer at about five turns.
 
Im talking about the idle speed screw. Back it out until it does not touch the throttle lever and in clockwise until it touches the throttle lever then in two full turns. Were you able to get a reading with the timing light?
 
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